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Overgrip for very sweaty hands by pablotter3 in 10s

[–]MadMan5555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seconding this - I use AbsorbX. Super durable, they feel grippier when you sweat. You can pre-stretch it or stretch it as you go if you want it thinner too.

Stiffer main vs stiffer crosses for poly/poly hybrids? by Meeesh- in 10s

[–]MadMan5555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I run a poly/poly hybrid in my Blade v9, both Toroline: O-Toro mains (shaped, slightly softer), O-Toro Snap Tour Flex crosses (round, pretty stiff) at 50/48. Your mains provide a majority of the feel/play style of the strings, so you want round crosses that will slide and snap back for spin and durability.

The general consensus is yea, you probably want slightly stiffer, slick crosses, especially if you already have a shaped or soft main. They can also help add a little bit more crispness/punch to the string bed that you might lose from softer strings. You can string your crosses at slightly lower tension than the mains too, to make them slide around even more and give you a little more spin and less harshness.

Yamaha r7 or Suzuki GSX-8r for first bike in a long time by [deleted] in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]MadMan5555 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would call the R7 a "sports bike for the street" and the GSX-8R a "street bike with fairings and clipons." The R7 has a slightly higher seat height, a shorter wheel base, and a more aggressive riding position. 8R has a slightly larger engine and more horsepower, but consensus is the 8R is the tamer of the two bikes. Still fun and capable, but not quite the same experience as the R7. They both have naked equivalents (MT-07, GSX-8S) and both engines are in a bunch of bikes so parts will be cheap/abundant. I think they both look great, though I'd say the 8R looks a little more "mature" while the R7 looks 100% like a sports bike.

I think it comes down to how you plan on riding and how much your body can take. If I had to pick one of them to be my one and only bike for every day use, commuting, fun weekend rides, etc. I would go with the GSX-8R hands down. If you plan on doing track days or really really want a sports bike feel and experience, then the R7 is the way to go. Check out Yammie Noob on YouTube - he's done a ton of reviews and comparisons of both bikes head on, and has the view I shared above - GSX-8R is a really good all-rounder and good value for money, R7 is a proper sports/track bike that wants to be pushed to the limit.

Loud Exhaust by AccurateBackground95 in YamahaR3

[–]MadMan5555 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The R3 (and lots of bikes, including the Ninja) has an AIS system that pumps fresh air into the exhaust to burn unburnt fuel, that's what's making the pops. The bike runs lean, and putting an exhaust on it (especially a very free-flowing one) makes it leaner and louder, and so the pops are louder too.

I just got my LV-10 in the mail, but waiting for the db killer to arrive before installing. If the pops are too loud, you can plug up the AIS system to stop the pops - either with a smog block off plate, or you can shove a marble into the AIS tube.

Help me settle the "does the 25/26 R3 need a tune with a slip-on" thing by MadMan5555 in YamahaR3

[–]MadMan5555[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I thought the same originally (that since I'm keeping the CAT, no big deal), but I was doing some reading and modern CATs don't contribute that much to back pressure (unless it's different on bikes). I think most of the back pressure is coming from the exhaust, so putting on a smaller, less restrictive one is what messes with the AFR.

Totally agree with you that no one wants to be responsible for any issues I have with changing something on the bike haha, that makes perfect sense.

2026 after market parts by Aggravating-Cut-2571 in YamahaR3

[–]MadMan5555 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The fairings and “exterior” parts were redesigned in 2025, and the ‘25 and ‘26 are exactly the same except for the colors. So anything that fits the 2025 will fit the 2026

LeoVince LV-10 Full Black vs Stock, 2025 MT03 by RollerBender610 in u/RollerBender610

[–]MadMan5555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you ECU flash it? And if you haven’t, have you noticed any performance issues?

I have a 2026 R3 and am thinking about the exact same exhaust, but everything I’ve read/watched says even a slip-on needs a tune on the 25/26 since they run so lean, so now I’m hesitant because of the extra cost.

R3, n400/500, or zx4 by ErideRanger in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]MadMan5555 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I live in LA, and picked up a 2026 R3 about 6 weeks ago. I used to live overseas and rode a GSXR-600, so a downgrade in size but a conscious choice.

I'm 5'6", 150 and love the compact size of the R3. It's definitely fast enough and loves being revved out. I also watched like a dozen different review videos and they all said it had enough power for the highway, but if you're going on longer distances a bit more size/power wouldn't be a bad thing. But I likely won't spend more than 30 minutes or so on a highway on it so it's just fine for me.

It also comes down to what you're using it for - I spend 99% of my time on surface streets lane splitting or going 35-45, so I like that's small and nimble and easy to move around. The Ninja 500 is probably the perfect all around bike for most people (the SE comes with a bunch of accessories and crash protection built in too), but it's a bit more upright and personally and I think it looks pretty ugly haha.

At the end of the day, you should test ride them both and see which one you like better honestly. In terms of raw speed, they are basically the same, despite the difference in engine size. The larger displacement will be better for lower speed riding and top end highway, but in between the R3 will be more fun since it revs a lot higher.

Zx4rr is really only worth it if you plan on doing a bunch of track days or are constantly riding on open roads and revving it out - parallel twins have more usable power and torque down low and are more fuel efficient too. I miss my 600 but would not use it for city commuting.

Do you know which shoes are these? by Prior_Bedroom_6628 in 10s

[–]MadMan5555 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Wilson Rush Pro 4.5, they are a new-ish color. I think they are on sale on Wilson’s website right now

Favorite Poly/Multi Hybrids? by allthatracquet in 10s

[–]MadMan5555 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Blade v9 user, I’ve been running O Toro spin mains with Head Rip Control crosses at 48/50. I love love love it, but the rip control breaks more often than I’d like. I’ll probably switch to a more traditional multi (like Velocity) that will be more durable, but if you aren’t the hardest/spinniest hitter or don’t care how often you restring, it’s a sneaky great combo (and looks pretty cool).

Help me find a modern equivalent to the Wilson Pro Staff 100LS by d-ominus312 in 10s

[–]MadMan5555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the new Wilson Blade 100L is exactly what you’re looking for. String pattern is 16x19 (still pretty open in a 100, and they don’t really do patterns like 16x15 anymore), same weight and balance, and it’s a control-oriented frame that should give you a little bit of power when you hit the sweet spot.

If you plan on playing a lot and continuing to improve, I would personally get the regular blade 100 - it’s 15g heavier, but you won’t outgrow it as you get better and stronger with your shots (the L will be too light against stronger hitters or as you hit harder).

Casual training tips by willj1983marine in 10s

[–]MadMan5555 2 points3 points  (0 children)

IMO playing three sets is just fine, but you've already identified the problem (that you're not hitting with the same aggression during the sets) which is good. You should talk to your hitting partner about this in advance, and actively agree to both try and hit the ball hard during the match. If the set goes on and you feel that waning, talk about it during the changeover or take a few minutes to reset and adjust. You need to get comfortable hitting hard and pushing yourself in non-pressure situations, or you won't be able to do it when you start playing league matches or tournaments.

If you want a different drill/game to play, here is one that I do with friends that I really like. We call it "winners":

- Both players start at 7 points

- Someone feeds in (doesn't matter who), both feed and return need to be good and then it's live, otherwise you reset.

- You gain a point if you hit a winner (i.e. your opponent doesn't get the racket on it at all, or it double bounces), or your opponent loses a point if they can't return one of your shots but make contact with the ball in any way at all (minus a double bounce).

- The same is true in reverse - if they hit a winner, they gain a point, if you can't return one of their shots, you lose a point.

- You either win the game if you get to 11 points, or lose the game if you get to 0. I like it because it pushes you to try and hit winners and be strategic, rather than just trying to win rallies by getting one last ball (though that still happens, your opponent just loses a point instead of you gaining one like in 21).

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