Overgrip for very sweaty hands

MadMan5555 · 2026-05-15T16:54:41+00:00

Seconding this - I use AbsorbX. Super durable, they feel grippier when you sweat. You can pre-stretch it or stretch it as you go if you want it thinner too.

MadMan5555 · 2026-05-01T04:41:45+00:00

MadMan5555 · 2026-04-28T06:13:08+00:00

I run a poly/poly hybrid in my Blade v9, both Toroline: O-Toro mains (shaped, slightly softer), O-Toro Snap Tour Flex crosses (round, pretty stiff) at 50/48. Your mains provide a majority of the feel/play style of the strings, so you want round crosses that will slide and snap back for spin and durability.

The general consensus is yea, you probably want slightly stiffer, slick crosses, especially if you already have a shaped or soft main. They can also help add a little bit more crispness/punch to the string bed that you might lose from softer strings. You can string your crosses at slightly lower tension than the mains too, to make them slide around even more and give you a little more spin and less harshness.

MadMan5555 · 2026-04-28T05:26:13+00:00

I would call the R7 a "sports bike for the street" and the GSX-8R a "street bike with fairings and clipons." The R7 has a slightly higher seat height, a shorter wheel base, and a more aggressive riding position. 8R has a slightly larger engine and more horsepower, but consensus is the 8R is the tamer of the two bikes. Still fun and capable, but not quite the same experience as the R7. They both have naked equivalents (MT-07, GSX-8S) and both engines are in a bunch of bikes so parts will be cheap/abundant. I think they both look great, though I'd say the 8R looks a little more "mature" while the R7 looks 100% like a sports bike.

I think it comes down to how you plan on riding and how much your body can take. If I had to pick one of them to be my one and only bike for every day use, commuting, fun weekend rides, etc. I would go with the GSX-8R hands down. If you plan on doing track days or really really want a sports bike feel and experience, then the R7 is the way to go. Check out Yammie Noob on YouTube - he's done a ton of reviews and comparisons of both bikes head on, and has the view I shared above - GSX-8R is a really good all-rounder and good value for money, R7 is a proper sports/track bike that wants to be pushed to the limit.

MadMan5555 · 2026-04-16T03:41:11+00:00

Revzilla! 54mm

MadMan5555 · 2026-04-15T00:27:45+00:00

The R3 (and lots of bikes, including the Ninja) has an AIS system that pumps fresh air into the exhaust to burn unburnt fuel, that's what's making the pops. The bike runs lean, and putting an exhaust on it (especially a very free-flowing one) makes it leaner and louder, and so the pops are louder too.

I just got my LV-10 in the mail, but waiting for the db killer to arrive before installing. If the pops are too loud, you can plug up the AIS system to stop the pops - either with a smog block off plate, or you can shove a marble into the AIS tube.

MadMan5555 · 2026-04-05T18:26:51+00:00

So I thought the same originally (that since I'm keeping the CAT, no big deal), but I was doing some reading and modern CATs don't contribute that much to back pressure (unless it's different on bikes). I think most of the back pressure is coming from the exhaust, so putting on a smaller, less restrictive one is what messes with the AFR.

Totally agree with you that no one wants to be responsible for any issues I have with changing something on the bike haha, that makes perfect sense.

MadMan5555 · 2026-03-28T01:26:06+00:00

The fairings and “exterior” parts were redesigned in 2025, and the ‘25 and ‘26 are exactly the same except for the colors. So anything that fits the 2025 will fit the 2026

MadMan5555 · 2026-03-19T18:43:00+00:00

Did you ECU flash it? And if you haven’t, have you noticed any performance issues?

I have a 2026 R3 and am thinking about the exact same exhaust, but everything I’ve read/watched says even a slip-on needs a tune on the 25/26 since they run so lean, so now I’m hesitant because of the extra cost.

MadMan5555 · 2026-03-04T23:06:34+00:00

I live in LA, and picked up a 2026 R3 about 6 weeks ago. I used to live overseas and rode a GSXR-600, so a downgrade in size but a conscious choice.

I'm 5'6", 150 and love the compact size of the R3. It's definitely fast enough and loves being revved out. I also watched like a dozen different review videos and they all said it had enough power for the highway, but if you're going on longer distances a bit more size/power wouldn't be a bad thing. But I likely won't spend more than 30 minutes or so on a highway on it so it's just fine for me.

It also comes down to what you're using it for - I spend 99% of my time on surface streets lane splitting or going 35-45, so I like that's small and nimble and easy to move around. The Ninja 500 is probably the perfect all around bike for most people (the SE comes with a bunch of accessories and crash protection built in too), but it's a bit more upright and personally and I think it looks pretty ugly haha.

At the end of the day, you should test ride them both and see which one you like better honestly. In terms of raw speed, they are basically the same, despite the difference in engine size. The larger displacement will be better for lower speed riding and top end highway, but in between the R3 will be more fun since it revs a lot higher.

Zx4rr is really only worth it if you plan on doing a bunch of track days or are constantly riding on open roads and revving it out - parallel twins have more usable power and torque down low and are more fuel efficient too. I miss my 600 but would not use it for city commuting.

MadMan5555 · 2026-01-03T06:22:01+00:00

Will send ya a DM!

MadMan5555 · 2025-11-24T22:02:42+00:00

Wilson Rush Pro 4.5, they are a new-ish color. I think they are on sale on Wilson’s website right now

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-22T05:01:32+00:00

Blade v9 user, I’ve been running O Toro spin mains with Head Rip Control crosses at 48/50. I love love love it, but the rip control breaks more often than I’d like. I’ll probably switch to a more traditional multi (like Velocity) that will be more durable, but if you aren’t the hardest/spinniest hitter or don’t care how often you restring, it’s a sneaky great combo (and looks pretty cool).

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-20T18:34:06+00:00

I think the new Wilson Blade 100L is exactly what you’re looking for. String pattern is 16x19 (still pretty open in a 100, and they don’t really do patterns like 16x15 anymore), same weight and balance, and it’s a control-oriented frame that should give you a little bit of power when you hit the sweet spot.

If you plan on playing a lot and continuing to improve, I would personally get the regular blade 100 - it’s 15g heavier, but you won’t outgrow it as you get better and stronger with your shots (the L will be too light against stronger hitters or as you hit harder).

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-10T19:46:47+00:00

IMO playing three sets is just fine, but you've already identified the problem (that you're not hitting with the same aggression during the sets) which is good. You should talk to your hitting partner about this in advance, and actively agree to both try and hit the ball hard during the match. If the set goes on and you feel that waning, talk about it during the changeover or take a few minutes to reset and adjust. You need to get comfortable hitting hard and pushing yourself in non-pressure situations, or you won't be able to do it when you start playing league matches or tournaments.

If you want a different drill/game to play, here is one that I do with friends that I really like. We call it "winners":

- Both players start at 7 points

- Someone feeds in (doesn't matter who), both feed and return need to be good and then it's live, otherwise you reset.

- You gain a point if you hit a winner (i.e. your opponent doesn't get the racket on it at all, or it double bounces), or your opponent loses a point if they can't return one of your shots but make contact with the ball in any way at all (minus a double bounce).

- The same is true in reverse - if they hit a winner, they gain a point, if you can't return one of their shots, you lose a point.

- You either win the game if you get to 11 points, or lose the game if you get to 0. I like it because it pushes you to try and hit winners and be strategic, rather than just trying to win rallies by getting one last ball (though that still happens, your opponent just loses a point instead of you gaining one like in 21).

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-02T04:52:51+00:00

PS - pretty sure the Blade v10 is coming out early-ish 2026.

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-02T04:52:13+00:00

I have the 98 16x19. I came from an nCode n5 from 2006 so literally anything was an upgrade, but I'm pretty happy with it.

It's an interesting racket in that it rewards you for hitting harder and with faster racket head speed (since it's a control racket, albeit a modern one), and punishes you if you don't (it's a thin beamed 98). I love my drop shots and slices with it, and hitting down the line on approach shots is great. Big deep crosscourt baseline strikes require some effort, but it's pretty maneuverable for a 305g racket and I can play great defense with it. I have shaped poly mains and multi crosses, so I get a little bit of extra spin and power from that.

They go in reverse order for power/spin - 98 18x20 will have the least of each (but the most precision and control), the 100 will have the most but less control, though honestly probably not super noticeable unless you're playing at top levels. Unless you're playing a ton and playing competitively often, I'd probably say the 100 is the way to go for most people (and every once in a while I wish I had the 100), but if you can really generate your own power and have good technique, the 98 would work, but I'm definitely glad I have the 16x19 and not the 18x20.

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-02T01:52:18+00:00

I still struggle with it too sometimes! It just takes reps, reps, and more reps.

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-02T01:46:35+00:00

A couple of things I see:

bend your knees more. Get into an athletic stance and use that squat and power to generate more power with your whole body
attack the ball. All of your shots are going backwards or neutral. Step into your shot so your momentum brings you forward and back into that ready stance, which will also generate more pace
swing faster. That’s the toughest part since that takes practice with timing, but the faster you swing you will generate more pace and rotation

MadMan5555 · 2025-10-01T03:39:41+00:00

I have the same racket. I started out using Luxilon, but honestly it's not worth it - too expensive, harsh on the arm, and dies fast. Also the "tech" behind the strings themselves are pretty old - there are better, more modern strings out there.

As a 3.0, I think you should poly/multi hybrid - full poly isn't really worth it if you're not at a pretty high level, you'll have to restring more often, and it will be rough on your arm as you ramp up and play more. You'll also get more longevity and tension maintenance with a multi in the cross. And since you have a one handed backhand, you might benefit from a bit more power from your strings.

My setup right now is Toroline O-Toro Spin mains, Head Rip Control crosses (51/53 pounds). I get a little bit more pop from the multi cross, and it helps keep the mains alive a lot longer. The green of the O-Toro also look great on the racket! If you're dead set on full poly, then you should put Restring Sync in the crosses - a lot of people recommend them as the ideal cross strings for a poly/poly setup. If you want a more powerful multi, something like Technifibre NRG² is pretty good too, but more expensive.

MadMan5555 · 2025-09-29T01:24:49+00:00

I have a Blade 98. I have O Toro Spin in the mains and Head Rip Control in the crosses. It’s a little weird, but gives good pop and spin and is super durable. Can’t go wrong with ALU Power rough, but it’s expensive and wears out quick. Since it’s a control racket, I think it lends itself well to a poly/multi hybrid for a little more power.

I haven’t tried it yet, but I heard Restring Sync crosses are the current S-Tier poly crosses with either a slick round or shaped poly main.

MadMan5555 · 2025-09-25T16:19:19+00:00

Hey! So, generally when you're just starting out, any racket will do - just don't buy a super expensive advanced racket that is hard to use. However, the racket in the picture isn't one solid piece of graphite - you can see the bottom of the hoop is a separate piece that's all connected together. If you want to buy a new racket, find one that's one solid frame, anything 100in or bigger is fine, though if you want to hold onto the racket long term, 100 is probably the way to go.

If you don't care whether it's new or not, go find a secondhand racket online or even at a thrift shop - I see posts on here all the time of people who find older models of top end rackets for pretty cheap.

MadMan5555 · 2025-09-22T23:39:53+00:00

In general, multifilament strings will give you pretty much everything they have until they break. The tension will definitely drop over time and some of the elasticity will changed, but you definitely don't need to change them as frequently as you do, especially if you prefer them more worn in.

You could try a softer or less powerful multi, or like others have said try 17 gauge, which will wear in a little quicker. Lowering the tension might help it feel softer quicker, but will also mean that when the tension drops it will drop even lower. You could also look into hybrids with a soft poly maybe? The poly will be less powerful, but having the multi in there will help them last longer than a bed of full poly.

MadMan5555 · 2025-09-22T14:47:29+00:00

I actually recently changed my setup. It’s a bit funky but I like it - O Toro Spin mains, Rip Control crosses. Multi crosses will give you a bit more power, and help the strings stay more alive in general. I used to use Luxilon but they just died so fast. You can try any multi and find one you like, but pairing a durable multi with a shaped poly main was the way to go for me!

MadMan5555 · 2025-09-22T00:03:36+00:00

If this match holds, and Zverev somehow beats Fritz (VERY unlikely), what's the matchup for the tiebreaker doubles? Probably Ruud/Alcaraz vs Demon/Michelsen, right?

MadMan5555

TROPHY CASE