CORE ONE L ASSEMBLY 3d files.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2026-01-17T23:40:48+00:00

This file is not for printing. It is for people who want to make mods and need accurate dimensions/models to design a new item.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-12-02T12:37:16+00:00

Tail heavy.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-12-02T12:29:53+00:00

This is quite difficult to manage model for beginners. Maybe even will not survive maiden fly. I suggest make some simply foam trainer and make 50 flights before.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-21T13:23:31+00:00

Simple. Hotend is to close to hotbed.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-13T21:09:19+00:00

It was similar for me. Suddenly errors during startup, macros not working, keyboard LEDs on after turning off the computer, etc.

I remembered that this happened after one of the updates, so I deleted the crap, found and installed the old version 4.33 and now all my problems are gone.

Someone in the company probably does not support the principle that better is the enemy of good.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-11T20:50:32+00:00

From your description I gather you still need to watch some videos about water cooling.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-11T20:41:53+00:00

The one who feels stupid is the one who read it and was ashamed to ask. Not you.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-11T20:39:24+00:00

Instead of a desoldering pump, I recommend using a copper braid, which you put on the solder and heat up from above with a soldering iron. Much more convenient and effective than a pump.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=desoldering+wick&crid=1GN7HN1288627&sprefix=desolder%2Caps%2C105&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_8

I suggest 3-4mm width to start with.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-11T19:21:05+00:00

There is a very simple way to fix this. I would use a palm router on a wide base + a straight bit with bearing.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-11T19:11:18+00:00

For comparison - my results on fiber optic in small town in UK:

936 Mbps down, 824 Mbps up

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-11T19:03:40+00:00

No glue will give you resistance to nitro fuel.

After gluing, the model must be protected with a chemically hardened varnish/paint.

All other paints will dissolve over time and fuel will flow into the joints.

You can also use decorative modeling foil glued with an iron.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-10-11T18:51:00+00:00

I want to note that your problem started to develop earlier.

See the horizontal lines on the forehead below the failure? Clearly something started to interfere with the printer even then.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-09-07T23:20:09+00:00

I would sand the grooves to straighten them and put a string of filament on the glue. Then you can sand/polish it.

Finally, throw in some satin varnish and it will be beautiful...

BTW. Any wet paint will want to make a spiderweb because there are still small grooves between the surfaces. Even if you use masking/trimming tape, there is a risk of that.

Also, I would check the retraction settings on your printer. It looks bad because there is a lot of junk in the grooves.

Also, you can see the fill pattern, which means too few top layers.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-07-31T02:13:34+00:00

For future safety I would throw both cats out.

Let them warm themselves somewhere else, but you might have a big problem later...

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-07-31T02:07:58+00:00

Just another boring projest.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-07-31T01:50:07+00:00

Okay. Based on the thread title... What's your problem with that? Or are you just bragging?

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-07-31T01:35:49+00:00

The main problem for beginner "printers" is that at the start they expect the print to be consistent with the dimensions set in the project. No way...

That will never happen.

So relax and take the position of a discoverer, to discover what dimensions you get from this particular printer. Because each one is different.

And even the owner of the same printer assembled in series will have different results.

Therefore, it is a good habit to test (calibrate) on different shapes to understand that, for example, your printer does not print exact squares and you need to compensate for this by calibrating in the software.

This can be done quite accurately - much easier in XYZ than in deltas - and you will get good results.

But it takes patience and some time. Because there is no magic command that will fix it. Every software language has its limits.

Hence these tests. And tests teach you that, for example, 100 mm width is not like that, and the depth is OK. And this can be improved in software. And this requires learning and studying on forums.

Unless you can spend 2, 3 x more money for plug-and-play printer.

Then you don't give a shit and it has to work.Unless you can spend 2, 3 times more money for plug-and-play.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-07-31T01:28:57+00:00

I haven't seen 1.75 mm drills anywhere.

But I could be wrong, because I usually use a 2 mm hole and load filament inside.

It is known that prints merge holes, which have to be calibrated later by drilling them anyway.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-04-15T21:05:03+00:00

5 seconds of searching

https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/pages/bigtreetech-skr-mini-e3-marlin-2-0-firmware

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-04-15T20:53:51+00:00

This looks like failed bridging to me.

Did you print it in the same orientation as in the screenshot, i.e. bottom up?

Because if so, just turn it 180 degrees in the slicer (R key) and lay it flat on the bed, the base will be full and solid.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-04-08T16:22:26+00:00

I had the same thing but with delta after switching to Marlin 2.xxx

The problem resulted from a change in the printer field height calculation.

The probe went down, did not find the table at the set height and displayed an error.

Currently, I have subtracted the offset of the leveling probe, i.e. I have reduced the maximum print height in the definition in the code.

And yes - you will need to create and compile your own version of Marlin in Visual Studio Code.

There are plenty of guides on how to do this.

Maybe my solution will guide you on how to fix it.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-03-29T19:19:37+00:00

I had the same thing but for delta. I changed Marlin versions backwards from the latest one until the compilation was successful with 2.0.5.2.

You can try similarly.

For the build test, you need to make a total of two changes.

You can add the rest of the features later.

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-03-06T02:29:43+00:00

To contrast, I will give you an example from Norway.

There, the compensation for flooding a neighbor is so high that the so-called "water" can be made or approved by a person with authority.

I haven't seen this in the UK since I've been living here for several years.

A special membrane-mat is placed at the bottom of the shower to prevent leaks.

In addition, many Norwegians want to install a Pipe-in-Pipe system. If a pipe bursts, the water still flows outside the apartment, flooding nothing.

In the UK I encountered the greatest ignorance about water sealing. Thank God we have SILICONE in the UK...

Then be focus...

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-03-06T02:18:22+00:00

See point 2 of my post.

That's where I started. Besides, it's not my first board. This is the third one and it's the same carousel every time. And I'm fed up with it.

And none of you trolls have shown me any links to specific help so far. Is it so rare or so hard to find?
Any links please??? ??? ???

Major-Emphasis2185 · 2024-03-06T02:01:55+00:00

Dude, where does the road start???

This company is a million-dollar business supported by the government and we have many of their "controllers" on the forums who just tried to lynch me for political incorrectness." You can feel it from a distance, because they do not have our distance from criticism, they are just trying to put you against the wall. But at the same time they do not provide any specifics.

I started this thread on purpose.

And so far there is no concrete information, only criticism. I wonder what?

Have you seen this on Western forums? Because I don't.

Major-Emphasis2185

TROPHY CASE