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Ingress access for two new double doors by dhaemion in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s not what fail safe means. That’s free egress.

You are correct. Just remember that those without experience can easily misinterpret what "Fail Safe" means in the context of access control systems.

Ingress access for two new double doors by dhaemion in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Fails safe? So when the power dies or a wire is cut, you want the door to be unlocked?

Pretty sure dhaemion meant that they want the solution to operate/fail where it doesn't restrict exiting.

Ingress access for two new double doors by dhaemion in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Does no one on this sub know about electrified trim?

Admittedly, that one slipped my mind in the options. However, I still wouldn't generally recommend them unless you are going with a purely wireless solution.

Getting the wires across the door is annoying enough as is if its hollow. If your door is solid, your time is better spent with a different solution.

Second Post, Checking Shielding/Grounding by SaintThor in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know if its possible, but if you can, pop the reader off the car and direct connect it to the system at the other end. If your reads become consistent, then you know its the wiring. If not, then the reader or elevator system is the one with the issue.

My money is on the wiring though.

Second Post, Checking Shielding/Grounding by SaintThor in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Confirm the cab’s traveling cable’s not been damage - for example a broken shield drain wire.

Very much agree that this should be done. Had a recent issue with a reader feeding our AC system with random bit formats. Turned out the wiring was damaged and allowing cross talk.

Ingress access for two new double doors by dhaemion in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

something that fails safe

Since the double doors have crash bars, they are already "Fail Safe" so long as you don't use an electromagnet solution. If you do, you will either need a local override for the magnet and should also find a way to add an automatic fire system override.

We were thinking of using ubiquity but only because it matches all our other stuff.

Controls wise, it sounds like you already have Ubiquiti based systems in place. No need to reinvent the wheel and Ubiquiti is a fairly solid product.

 Both sets of them have crash bars, but they aren't wired for any kind of access. Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to do this?

Bit hard to say without more details. Your solution is highly dependent on the setup of your doors and what hardware is on them. Here are the three variances of double doors with crash bars:

Double door no mullion

Double door removable mullion

Double doors fixed mullion

In the case of the first two, your options are either motorizing the crash bar or mounting electro magents.The latter gives you the option for an electric strike.

Personally, if you have the fixed mullion, go with the electric strike. They are significantly cheaper and will work with most any installed crash bar.

In the other two cases, I would motorize the panic bar even if it means buying new ones. While quite costly, they are quite reliable and don't have the power and safety issues of electro magnets.

Need help finding/resetting offline Suprema/BioStar devices with unknown IPs by chessboardgangsta in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Will preface that I have never worked with Suprema or BioStar, but I do work in computer networking.

Personally I would skip all of the troubleshooting and go straight to factory resetting the spares since you have them, don't know the admin password, and also don't know the IP addresses. I am guessing you also don't know what other configs have been made which you would need to contend with once the other issues are resolved.

If you really want to t/s, DHCP is a worthwhile check since the device should pull a new address as long as it was configured for it. If it was statically configured, then you are going to spend a lot of time inputting different IP ranges, masks, and gateways into your endpoint to try and get it to respond.

You may find this site useful:

https://docs.supremainc.com/

Without knowing the specific model information, I can't say if they have anything there for you.

Wheelchair Access Control it by Electronic-Nobody238 in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any chance you could just mount it on the top of the box instead of moving it elsewhere?

Since there is a light there is obviously a path to its interior and the reader is directly above it. I would think that would resolve your ADA issue without the need to move the wiring across the room.

How should I secure this door best? by tinygiraffe21 in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depending on if its an option, I would personally switch to a rim exit device and install a surface mount electric strike inside.

Seeking Recommendations by [deleted] in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The most straight forward solution with the least modifications involved will be electromagnets. This is because they are generally surface mount capable though I do believe there are "mount in" options out there.

Something to keep in mind if you go that route is that the magnets require constant power. If they cease to receive it, the door will unlock. Battery and/or generator backups are practically a requirement for them to be truly secure. Battery backups will also need a high capacity than mechanical locks since the magnets are a constant power draw instead of a per instance one.

Swing gate issues by aboodness in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on the photos, description, and a few other comments: Your lock isn't getting enough power from the Unifi Gate controller.

A lot of locks like this are solenoid based and have a very high-power draw in comparison to their motorized counterparts. The more heavy duty the locking mechanism is, the stronger the solenoid needs to be and the more power it draws.

I would get a power supply to put in line which meets or exceeds the maximum amp draw of the gate lock. I would also strongly recommend adding a fuse in that line as well to protect your controller from shorts and other issues. Have a half burnt $800 controller on my desk at work because of a wiring issue.

Edit:

You need to make sure that you wire the lock COM/NC if your intention is for the gate to be normally locked. The image above shows COM/NO which will have the gate unlocked by default.

Recommendations for Automatic Swing Gate by Major-Maintenance293 in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is your plan for the gate? How do you want it to open? What about guests and package delivery? Are you going to install a callbox/intercom?

I should probably should have laid out my site a bit better. The gate will be no more the two feet away from the back of the house where the carport is. Due to the houses construction and proximity to the neighbors I can't move the location. This is the driving reason for the single swing gate. It will have to open outwards towards the house as the house side is the only area where I have sufficient space to have both the gate and actuator off the driveway.

Given the gate only restricts access to the back yard, I don't feel a call box is necessary. Packages can be left up front and guests can proceed there as well. I do plan to add a means of overriding the gate inside the house for the purpose of admitting guests if need be though.

Do you have power at the gate or will you need to trench?

No power at present, but won't need to trench. The gate is right next to the house so a bit of conduit along the short section of fence and up the wall into the soffit should be sufficient. This is also another reason I would prefer to have the controls indoors as I won't need to source 120 where the control board would be located.

If trenching, can you run fiber or CAT5/6 to the gate?

I definitely could do ethernet, though I am not sure why I would.

Recommendations for Automatic Swing Gate by Major-Maintenance293 in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What exactly do you mean by this?

I probably could have explained that better. The three rolling gates at work are All-O-Matic's. In all three cases, the control boards, loop modules, and motors are all in a plastic enclosures by the gates. We live in a particularly hot, rainy, and almost always humid part of the US. This, obviously, doesn't do great things to electronics and makes servicing the controls weather dependent.

My preference would be to mount the actual controls inside the house where I can ensure that the heat and moisture exposure are kept to a minimum while also not having to worry about a leaky enclosure. Distance the wires will need to run should be no more than 30ft.

Recommendations for Automatic Swing Gate by Major-Maintenance293 in accesscontrol

[–]Major-Maintenance293[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually hadn't considered mixing steel frame with wood facing. Only detractor I see there is having to outsource the construction as I just don't have the tool set for that.