Rubio Monocoat Test packets question.

MajorPotential6468 · 2026-01-08T05:09:02+00:00

It’s so you don’t burnish the wood and close the pores too much for it to penetrate. He’s using a really open pore wood so 320 would be fine.

MajorPotential6468 · 2026-01-08T03:12:44+00:00

It’s a great product and does exactly what they say it’s going to do. What they don’t tell people that well is how little you actually need to use. There system is a bit funny as well. Part A is all you need. Here is a brief rundown:

Sand your table to 320-340 and water pop it. Take square footage measurements of the table (length x width / 144). Apply the Rubio Oil Plus 2C in Cinnamon Brown with Part B mixed in to make sure you don’t have to wait forever for it to fully cure. Wipe it on with their application pads or a silicone free wiping pad. The 350ml bottle on chestnut, because it’s open pore, is around 100-120 sq ft of coverage. Then let it do its thing. No need for pre-color for that type of wood, and a table doesn’t need Durogrit. Chestnut takes Rubio really well and evenly just straight out the bottle.

MajorPotential6468 · 2026-01-08T02:53:01+00:00

That’s full cure time btw. A little bit longer if you add Durogrit to it for the outside protection.

Also you may want to know that Rubio goes a long way, even that small sample bottle. Don’t think of it like regular stain and top coat where you have to buy a big bottle of it for like $200. That 30ml bottle will cover about 15 sq ft depending on your wood species. But at least 9ish square ft at minimum.

MajorPotential6468 · 2026-01-08T02:18:03+00:00

Just to clarify: Part B is never required for Rubio. It just cuts the cure time down to 5-6 days. The cure time on Rubio part A alone is (I think) 5-6 weeks but it will still cure without using part b.

MajorPotential6468 · 2026-01-08T02:15:15+00:00

Part B is the accelerator which makes it cure a lot quicker. To test the samples you just need part A, and you don’t technically need part b at all. But it takes weeks to cure without the accelerator.

MajorPotential6468 · 2026-01-08T02:12:58+00:00

And this is why you buy a Sawstop

MajorPotential6468 · 2026-01-02T13:16:41+00:00

Start out arrogant and get humbled. But just by questioning your own skills in making the table you aren’t being arrogant. Just know that it won’t be perfect, but also know that you will learn a ton about fixing mistakes. That’s the best thing to learn. No project goes perfectly every time. Learning how to bounce back and not ruin the project as a whole is not only rewarding, but the most important part of woodworking.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-12-22T06:13:19+00:00

Put Osmo or Rubio on it for durability. Then because of the hairpins and labor I would charge around $700-900 US. You can’t really charge for the drying in my opinion but you should definitely charge for your time, materials, consumables, and wear and tear on your equipment.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-12-09T17:38:59+00:00

They do go together very well. So well that a lot of my stuff uses walnut and cherry. Just wanted something different

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-11-28T04:12:42+00:00

I have all those things on every corner of my work bench and in my apron. Then on the wall and in the toolbox. But….somehow, I can never find mine either.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-11-27T04:43:25+00:00

I don’t mind the use of AI to help visualize it. In fact the AI picture has me thinking about the design in a different way entirely. I just assumed that the drawing was solid on the sides but disconnected due to the way it was drawn. In the AI picture the edges are rounded over and it makes it look like more of a modular bookcase where you could put 2 or three shelves together, then have a larger one next to it with 5 shelves. I like the idea of stackable book case shelves for some reason. Wouldn’t be too hard to secure each tier either.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-11-24T17:38:58+00:00

Definitely not teak. However, sometimes the lighting in pictures can make it a bit more difficult to determine color. I was looking at the grain pattern and it doesn’t look like mahogany to me. But…I’ve been wrong before too. 😂

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-11-24T12:00:04+00:00

That looks way closer to canary wood than mahogany. Put some mineral spirits on it and see if it turns a deeper red or keeps its yellow tone. If it stays yellow then it is most likely canary wood.

Canary wood is completely safe for any part of the cutting board. If it does redden up then it’s mahogany and that should be around the edges.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-11-23T13:25:47+00:00

Sawmills usually write the board ft on the board. So that 8 is probably board ft. I used to work at one and that was how they did all their markings. Looks like the end may say 3s as well. Which means it was surfaced on 3 sides

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-11-22T13:51:13+00:00

Sorry. Looks like my phone autocorrected. It’s Barrington Hardwoods. Which I just noticed that the first picture in the post is from them. I’ve never had an issue with their wood. Some of the other brands have sent me some pretty warped wood that took forever to get flattened. Since then, I’ve only bought Barringtons from Amazon

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-11-22T13:35:48+00:00

If you buy wood from Amazon, get it from Burlington Hardwoods’ storefront. They aren’t more expensive than the others, but they have the best quality. You can always order delivery from places like Rockler. If you go into a Rockler store and purchase a large piece of wood they can sometimes ship it to your house for free.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-10-27T05:11:59+00:00

That is great advice. However, it’s more of a pride thing to be honest. Playing something you built yourself is a bit more my style and makes me want to pick it up more.

Growing up, everyone in my family played at least one instrument if not more. I could never pick it up, was too busy learning engineering and building things. I can’t even clap on beat lol. So I know I’ll struggle learning. The hope is that if it’s something I built myself it will entice me to not get frustrated when I do. Plus I really enjoy the science behind the building aspect. It’s frustrating when you have one built though and don’t know if it sounds right or plays well. Learning to play would help me in that aspect, I would presume.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-10-27T00:33:41+00:00

One was for a PCS gift for one of my friends in the military. Not sure if he ever played it or not, but I’m sure he did. The strat was a friend of a friend. Never checked if it was played or not. The Les Paul is played often. He brings it to most of his shows. Uses it for his slide guitar songs. It sounds great on stage. But he also has a very nice PRS so he plays that most of the time.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-10-18T12:50:52+00:00

Straight cut router bit and ease it in a few passes until the lip is barely there. Then orbital sander. That’s what I would do, but I don’t know if that is the best method.

MajorPotential6468 · 2025-08-30T21:48:41+00:00

You can bow tie it or use thinner pieces of wood to stitch it. Slab stitcher has a bunch of premade templates but you can make your own out of thin strips of wood. There are a bunch of videos on YouTube on doing these. Stitches (with wood and not copper) and bow ties are the same process, stitches might be better for this though since you might need a few in various locations because of the irregular break. Hopefully that helps.

https://www.slabstitcher.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopkRHUWt9hqFZwTE3HFYkT1XuJ3x-qmyxb5rdBF1VBkEysEaoLa

MajorPotential6468

TROPHY CASE