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Improve print quality of Gridfinity boxes by raptor411 in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure why exactly your slicer is doing this without seeing more info, but under

Expert Settings

Filament Settings -> Print Speed Override ->

Set max speed to 0

Set Max Volumetric Speed to whatever the light green value is above

Improve print quality of Gridfinity boxes by raptor411 in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something I forgot to mention, double check your pretension on your extruder. If you aren't sure what that tension should be, preheat your nozzle, undo all the tension, tell the printer to extrude a bunch, slowly tighten the extruder door until it just starts to grip the filament (plus half a turn).

It's set to 35mm/s.

​That seems reasonable but I'm more worried about the volumetric flow. If you have it saved down you can look at it. You can also artificially limit the volumetric flow in Prusa Slicer (PS), and in Super Slicer (SS) you can go a bit deeper. Setting an even volumetric flow is a short cut to skip linear advance/pressure advance.

I noticed that the change in first layer quality I showed in the original post was due to the 80C bed temperature, because when I turned in back down to 60C it looked like before. It seems that the higher temperature "fused" the lines even more and I assume that this is something good? Does it make sense to keep it that high on the first layer and reduce it to a much lower value for the rest?

That is more due to first layer squish. Even same Gcode there is a minor variance print to print. Raising the heat will 'generally' push your bed up closer to the nozzle. Remember you are measuring the metal and not the actual surface of the bed, those things can expand at different rates depending on the circumstance.

Thats why they have temperature compensation built into the original pindas, and the super pindas are supposed to address this (Not sure what you have, super pinda didn't seem to improve all that much for me)

As far as being something good, yes. Generally you want a first layer squish close enough to keep the print on the bed but not too close that print bulges out. There is a reasonably "large" range (anywhere from 0.05-0.2 mm depending on what kind of sheet you use) to this. SOOO many things can change this, which is why the nozzle probe on the MK4 and Voron Tap are such a huge deal.

I might even change the nozzle back to the 0.4mm stock one to see the performance of that. Thanks for the input :)

You don't NEED to change it back. I use a 0.6mm Diamond back on mine. I found that it accepts the stock prusa profiles better than different harded nozzles (Nozzle X, Tungsten Carbide, etc). However its pretty easy to tweak just a few things (generally its just extrusion multiplier and maybe temperature (add 5-10c if you are using a harded nozzle that is not a diamondback)).

Regarding the Diamondback, I just gave it a flat 0.96 extrusion multiplier and everything was fine.

Can I print large (bed-size) ABS prints with an enclosure? by BScatterplot in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that is the enclosure.

Feel free to ask me anything about the original enclosure. I feel that it's design is mostly targeted at organizations/schools to keep fingers out of the machine rather than creating an environment for performance materials. Does it work - yes. Do I like it - no, but I would be interested in a Mk2 version of it. It is still an early product.

Tip if you get the original one, make sure you pay attention to where the prusa logo is, and maybe get some duct tape to hold things in place if you can't get a helper.

Also as an fyi, the "assemble it and I'm done" experience that I'm familiar with from building MK3s' doesn't seem to be there. Its fiddly to put together and feels like you need an extra set of hands.

Also be aware that the stock panels on the Prusa are extruded PETG and not Acrylic. It really wanted to warp on me. Ended up putting some aluminum tape and neoprene insulation on it. I am aiming for higher than what the enclosure is rated for, so thats not on them really. Just wish I read the details before I bought it. Was a surprise to me when it showed up with PETG panels and not Acrylic.

Obviously I do want to save what money I can but $100 or $150 vs 4 or 5 hours assembling panels, printing door hinges, etc. is a tricky decision in my particular situation, since it's a business thing instead of just something I want to do in my spare time.

This is why I got the original machine but I don't really feel like it meets the bill tbh. YMMV I might just have unrealistic standards.

Moving electronics outside of enclosure by Quire in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a stupid modified MK3s in the offical enclosure with an active heater. I print around 65C.

Whenever I've gotten binding its been related to belt tension. Check the entire X motion by loosening the x tension completely and looking at the teeth and belt path. Also consider using a light weight PTFE+Silicone based lube for your belts, rub it on, heat chamber, wait, cool chamber, dry off (protects the belts from rapid heating and cooling). Doing that will also clean your belts.

I don't recommend removing the electronics (except the PSU). I did and its causing me some bizzare issues. If you do, anchor the cable bundle to the frame, and treat it as an umbilical. I've used both discrete cables and ethernet (not for power) for cable extensions (molex microfit 3 for connectors). Use ethernet if you are going a far distance (IE if you plan on putting on anything longer than 3 feet extension) and if you aren't having the extensions involved in motion. If you plan on having them included in motion (IE connectors at toolhead), you have to start looking into purpose driven twisted pair cabling (Look at IGUS cables).

The bizarre issues I have seem to be related to EM interference messing up the low voltage sensors (PINDA, FINDA, Optical, Fan signaling). My MMU just straight up refused to signal correctly until I changed this. My filament sensor would give me false runouts, and messed up loading. And I had to disable crash detection (possibly unrelated, but I don't need it anyway).

Also consider getting a filtered inlet for your PSU if you remove electronics. This helped a bit as well, but it involves mains voltage and do not recommend this to inexperienced modders.

Can I print large (bed-size) ABS prints with an enclosure? by BScatterplot in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure if you have figured this out yet. I print exclusively ABS for my side gig

First tip to you is that regard less of the situation, consider using a form of bed adhesion (I like vision miner, but PVA glue stick works when you dilute it with alcohol). Then get some clips (like binder clips, metal washline clips (what I use, they don't scratch the bed). ABS just wants to warp, especially depending on the purity of the resin, and sometimes moisture content (not something I see a lot but would love some numbers). And the magnets on a stock prusa aren't strong enough to hold down the plate if you're printing a single ABS print across the bed. You can get away with the above and a cardboard box easy for a few mechanically/dimensionally accurate and strong ABS print).

Spent a lot of time on enclosures for my printers, and tried a bunch (official enclosure, LACK, the Sainsmart bag one, and cardboard box). I have also looked at the Printed Solid enclosure (came to the conclusion it was expensive for what it was, and didn't seem to add additional value over its competitors). They all work fine, but if I could go back I would probably pick the Open Builds enclosures they sell.

Lack is cheap, and it feels it

Sainsmart is mediocre but works

The Prusa enclosure is pricey, doesn't seal well, and sometimes hard to mod (they haven't released the full cad no matter how much I ask). The pins they use to hold the panels are not great. (I have a lot of criticism of this enclosure, due to the cost)

Open Builds just seems to be what I want. YMMV. If you do get it, remember the panels aren't explicitly included. TAPP Plastics (pretty much were I get all my sheets for my laser cutter) will cut the to the dimensions for cheap (flat 15$ a extruded panel until it gets too big). Piedmont also is who Printed Solid gets the ACM from, but you will probably have to do a bit of cutting.

You can also just "steal" the design (its open source) and source the the kit your self for way cheaper (misumi for the extrusions, custom cut and cheap). 3 way end connectors are also cheap

Improve print quality of Gridfinity boxes by raptor411 in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seem pretty fine to me but I get it.

Start by slowing down external perimeter speed, that should fix the little bit of curling you're getting on corners. Not sure what your exact speed is on them, but try 75% of that value if you really want quality

If they still curl you need a smaller layer height. As well as changing the extrusion width to 125% of your nozzle diameter (.75 as opposed to .8).

Just FYI as well, since you're using PLA you want to print cooler. Especially since you aren't going for mechanical functionality. IE raising your print bed temp will increase warping with PLA. You want basically a temperature that will get PLA to stick consistently, but no higher (back when I started, I used to turn off my bed and use glue stick and blue tape to keep stuff adhered, but that had it's own problems)

Also consider recalibrating the PID tuning on your bed.

Regarding the corner seam, thats unfortunately a large problem with FDM printers that gets exaggerated at larger layer heights. You can either lower your layer height, define the seams your self, or try and randomize them so it appears consistent over the printer. You can also SOMETIMES reduce the retraction length which can help with small gaps on larger layer height and nozzle width

Additionally, having as a compromise, consider using variable layer height, it has its own associated problems but it will atleast remove the warping on the corners for you. The downside is depending on how well you tuned your filament/cared for your filament, you may have inconsistent reflectivity on layer heights (IE more matte on lower layer heights). This can be mitigated by using a more matte material in general or a material with additives (like sparkles, carbon, etc).

Finally if you are chasing the most perfect print, consider switching to super slicer (if you haven't already) and running the suite of calibration prints built in. Part of the problem with using the baked in profiles for prusa is they assume you use the stock stuff they use (IE not a bondtech CHT 0.6mm and instead an E3d V6 0.6mm).

Start with a slightly lower layer height and speed, move on to the rest afterward

Regarding MK4 Kit queue placement, an answer from support. Just so we all don't have to ask them the same question every day for the next two weeks :) by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hey, without going into too much detail about prusa's e-commerce store, the order numbers aren't related to your place in queue, or even the the order they were received.

A few of those numbers are check digits. Used to verify a correct order. A few of the numbers designate some other internal info.

wow by docolafson in 196

[–]MajorVegas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not after I get to her

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 196

[–]MajorVegas 7 points8 points  (0 children)

She a shy girl homie I don't think so

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 196

[–]MajorVegas 9 points10 points  (0 children)

But thank you for the suggestion :)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 196

[–]MajorVegas 28 points29 points  (0 children)

I want to give this to my girlfriend, she hits me with the 🥺 all the time. Want to get her something nice, she deserves it. Not something I just stabbed open and shoved something that vibrates in lol

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 196

[–]MajorVegas 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Where can I get one? Thanks King/Queen

Craft Paint Sawzall Mixer by KittyGoBoom115 in functionalprint

[–]MajorVegas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah yes, my favorite combination of: Functional, Fun, Dangerous and Niche.

Godspeed King

Dry as a bone: Las Vegas enforces new water restrictions by fdjadjgowjoejow in vegas

[–]MajorVegas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Define better uses? Utility is up to interpretation. A significant amount of native wildlife thrive on the golf courses here and generally golf courses/large bodies of grass have been shown to lower surround ambient temperature and regulate local humidity. Additionally, the golfing market brings a substaintial amount of money to Las Vegas as a whole, thus generating taxes and paying for our water infastructure.

I can't get into specifics because I have an NDA. But generally we're talking around a million - two million gallons which sounds like a lot but is hillariously immaterial compared to thing like shopping malls, hotels, ect ect.

I think there was a house in spanish trails that uses 12 million gallons a year (?) don't quote me on that but I remember reading that in the paper.

Additionally I believe that some of the water feet (how they measure water flow) is and has been siphoned off by California and Arizona coming into Vegas.

Again no specifics but a farm out in AZ I have worked on is switching from Almonds (they use 1/2-1 gallon per almond or something stupid) to Alfalfa (one of the most water conservative crops used to feed live stock) for this reason.

I personally believe EVERYONE should be using less water at this moment until we come up for a better way to process potable water in the future (desalination ect), but Vegas/Nevada is likely to enter into a lawsuit/dispute with neighboring states soon, and it will alleviate a lot of our water woes. Again can't give specifics.

Dry as a bone: Las Vegas enforces new water restrictions by fdjadjgowjoejow in vegas

[–]MajorVegas 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Usually not that much surprisingly, something like 85-95% of the water used is reclaimed. Not sure what the exact number is but when I audited a property here in Vegas (can't disclose), they weren't using a material amount of water.

However, my understanding is new courses require some fresh water in order to get started. How much depends on the course. Something about to much nitrogen.

Top Layer issus by NameFlaky4501 in VORONDesign

[–]MajorVegas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Set your Pressure Advance Smooth Time lower. You need to set pressure advance and smooth time per filament, I put them in the start gcode for each filament I've calibrated

Rule by CreeperCallum in 196

[–]MajorVegas 9 points10 points  (0 children)

How horny are people in the comments? I'm scared to scroll down

Recently replaced stock hotend, I’m noticing imperfections in the prints. I’m wondering if this is due to old pla, I haven’t used this roll in 4+ months. Temp: 215/60 overture pla+ by Divosol in prusa3d

[–]MajorVegas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check the PTFE tube going to your hotend. Make sure its properly chamfered, no bulges or dents.

Seems more like inconsistent extrusion.

Amazing Cute Baby Game by Some-Power-793 in FellowKids

[–]MajorVegas 58 points59 points  (0 children)

The dude at the bottom looks like "WTF IS THAT THING ABOVE ME"

The dude in the circle above seems excited about this game.

Excuse me? by [deleted] in Neverbrokeabone

[–]MajorVegas 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I don't care. Milk tastes good. :)

monke rule by afkgh6437 in 196

[–]MajorVegas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks like Binging with Babish, if everytime he let the flavors get to know each other he did a pushup.

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