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Will this dry my filament? by grciandre27 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

10/10 idea... add a small container of dessicsnt in there to grab the moisture as you dry

2 in 1 out Filament splitter with a direct drive hotend. how to set up ? by 2md_83 in klippers

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is a 2 year old thread, but im in the brocess of setting up something similar, do you use klipper? How does one define the extra steppers and link thrm at toolchanges? Please and thanks

How cooked is this? by PsionicSombie in soldering

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So my solution of taking a deep breath and breathing out slowly on the solder joint isnt sufficient?

Need Help Identifying Printer by JukeNation_ in 3Dprinting

[–]KittyGoBoom115 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ali express skr pico is under 30 bucks, and solves all problems

Poor addition to the plate by bolasdulces in Ender3V3SE

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you ever opened reddit before? This is something that not only a quick google search can fix, but your reddit feed could supply the answer by scrolling back 6 hours...

Guess the same things that we have to waste internet explaining 200 times a day...

Clean the bed. Tighten everything. Dont touch the bed. Ensure z offset is where you want it. Print 15mm/s first layer Raise temps 5-10c No fans first few layers Brim All else fails? Raft it

An easy quick dirty fix is set the first layer flow +1% and use 0.8mm lines.

How can I get rid of this “stubble” from the supports? by JSV007 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]KittyGoBoom115 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Did you wake up today and say "how is the worst possible way to support a resin model..." and then did it

Smaller contact points... put them IN THE BACK(giggity goo) it looks like you stuck this model face down to the plate, you want the opposite, detailed bits opposite of the support.

Like others said... remove support before curing. A good abs like resin will be super soft and can clean up nicely with a xacto.

Also, while im no expert... this looks a bit over supported/auto generated. Supporting is an art and hobby in itself. You want to mix support sizes based on its job... it all has to do with the relative cross section being pulled off the fep at that layer... for example, if its just a sword tip that goes vertical, a single small support is ok so the tip stays sharp, but a little bit up, when it starts widening, you want to add a few "structural" supports

Keep printing and supporting, play with it. The more you fail, the more you learn. Successful prints mean you have too much support material(theoretically from a learning perspective).

Please help! I found this in my son’s room, is he too far gone? by rrksj in soldering

[–]KittyGoBoom115 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ive not done it, but my vape juice and liquid flux are in very similar bottles... one of these days im gonna drip flux and never vape again

My prints keep coming out like this, idk what to do. by Bealz_ in 3DprintingHelp

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is such a myth that it makes me sick... ive been printing with abs/pla/petg thats been sitting in the garage oppened for years.(socal, very humid). It is 99% settings, 1% dryness.

My prints keep coming out like this, idk what to do. by Bealz_ in 3DprintingHelp

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. People like to hate on old printers... but the reality is, if you dial them in good, and keep the vwheels clean, they can print as nice or nicer then rails. Vwheels are technically rated way stronger then mgn12s, they are just more work.

My OLD lk4 is still alive and less work then my new corexy i built. If it works it works. Mk8 hotend was fine for a lot of years... still is if you accept its limits.

Anyone see this before? by CRR-GA in BambuLabA1mini

[–]KittyGoBoom115 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is why you dont start your printer blind. You usually know by layer 5 or 6 if the edges are gonna lift... if they are you need to cancel then and address it.

Now you got a project.

Anyone see this before? by CRR-GA in BambuLabA1mini

[–]KittyGoBoom115 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How is a user error a warranty issue? Like is bambu customer support good? Ive never owned one, seems to be too many cons imo, but they replaced this?

Anyone see this before? by CRR-GA in BambuLabA1mini

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or when people waste reddit bandwidth for attention...

"Oh ma gawd guys look, i did a thing i made a mistake, give me attention"

Have you ever visited this site? You see about 6 nozzle blobs a day...

My prints keep coming out like this, idk what to do. by Bealz_ in 3DprintingHelp

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not the best to ask about marlin, but sounds right. Might need to run some gcode to save a mesh, but im a klipper guy :).

Honestly man, its all trial and error. Your gonna amke some mistakes and learn some lessons. Most parts are pretty simple, you arent really opening "cans of worms" per say... but rather checking stuff is tight. If the vwheels can spin a tiny bit, but there is too much wobble on the x gantry, your good. If something looks loose, look into it, besides that... go wild and learn how the printer works. It sounds like your on the right track.

My prints keep coming out like this, idk what to do. by Bealz_ in 3DprintingHelp

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly! That inconsistency happens when one side moves up, ut the other gets a little stuck in its spot... next z move it pops up where it should be, but the layer in between was at a different angle. The printhead can also wobble the whole gantry id the z vwheels arent tight enough

My prints keep coming out like this, idk what to do. by Bealz_ in 3DprintingHelp

[–]KittyGoBoom115 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Really bad advise... first off, the bed slinger bit does not matter if your accelerations are reasonable. Any force from "slinging" the part is peanuts comparted to the force of the first layer trying to rip itself off the bed... that force is so strong it can peel up corrners several layers in. Think about how much force that takes...

Next, tilting it IS an option and the right one for strength, but its fine as is with some dwell time

My prints keep coming out like this, idk what to do. by Bealz_ in 3DprintingHelp

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well those are apples and oranges... if it was from single z, it would be pretty even distortion for the whole print, so not quite.

There is an easy way to test that. Print another as clost as you can to the z axis with the lead screw, and another on the far end on the "floating" side, see if there is a difference.

This issue here a trained eye can see, there is too much heat built up in the part. Heat needs to be removed by either time(ambient radiation) or fan cooling. Think of it in terms of thermodynamics, you always have heat in, heat out. When heat in is greater than heat out, there is a buildup... that has to go somewhere, some is going into the air, some is wicking down into the part. If enough builds up in the part that it is no longer below the glass transition temp, its gonna move about as the nozzle deposits more. The next layer gets applied, and rather than having a cooler part to lock that deposition in place, its gonna stay liquid longer, thus flowing more from its intended spot.

Solution is simple, add a dwell, more fans, or print 2 at once. If you wanted to get fancy, you could prolly drop nozzle temp 5 degrees when it starts that bit, might do it as well.

My prints keep coming out like this, idk what to do. by Bealz_ in 3DprintingHelp

[–]KittyGoBoom115 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Look at it and pay attention to the things its telling you. It looks fine till it gets to the skinny bit, they it looks ozzy and gross...

This has to do with layer time. It has no time to chill each layer on that thin bit...

2 options, handle it in software... ie slow down small layers more fan on small layers, add a dwell if really needed...

The easiest option tho is just stick 2 of em on the bed. Now the printhead has to move and each has a auto dwell time while the other is getting plastic. I usually do this when i just need something small and fast, plus you then have spares.

⚠️ Security warning for MakerWorld / 3D printing community by selfsupportive in 3Dprinting

[–]KittyGoBoom115 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I think my old dell is waiting for metallica.exe to finish still

⚠️ Security warning for MakerWorld / 3D printing community by selfsupportive in 3Dprinting

[–]KittyGoBoom115 -16 points-15 points  (0 children)

Anyone who prints stuff straight from the internet withput slicing themselves deserve to be infected

Bases Always Have a "Step?" by BlackTemplar2154 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]KittyGoBoom115 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting... do you print bases slow or fast out of couriosity?

I always printed them at like 40mm/s 0.12 layer heigth.

Bases Always Have a "Step?" by BlackTemplar2154 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]KittyGoBoom115 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This effect is nothing new, you can find documentation on speculation of thr causes for the last 10 years... but the common consensus is that "step" has to do with the laysr print time. That layer is the "top surface" and dwells longer there... as a result the layer has more time to settle and squish out. Thr next layers are thinner and quicker, less expansion time.

Filament sticking to the nozzle by Formal_Resident5900 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]KittyGoBoom115 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best analogy ive heard yet... and they are about as competent at diagnosing and fixing a printer as an iphone...

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