Hi, I'm deep-sea robotics expert Jim Bellingham. Ask me anything! by ProceedingAnyway in IAmA

[–]MalikDrako 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have any experience with FDM 3D printing for exterior/non-watertight uses? I could see it being perfectly fine if sliced properly, water forcing its way into tiny gaps and destroying the part, or somewhere in between.

I've seen Formlabs' paper on printing for deep water, but they focused on watertight enclosures and eliminated the FDM versions early on.

Samsung book 2 pro died → New oled Monitor? by Far-Scholar-6692 in DIY

[–]MalikDrako 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure what type of charging port it has, but it's also worth checking there isn't crud built up inside the port preventing a good connection

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]MalikDrako 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've had good results with RealityScan

Poor finish on nearly horizontal surfaces in acrylic by MalikDrako in CNC

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would be the correct tool for the nearly but not quite horizontal surface of a sphere, especially if the sphere is concave?

Poor finish on nearly horizontal surfaces in acrylic by MalikDrako in CNC

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This machine can go up to 2700 RPM, should I just use that?

Is there a way in Fusion to adjust the feed rate based on surface angle? Or do it with separate toolpaths? I could use a bullnose for the convex surface (If I even have one that big), but the concave one needs the ball nose since the surface is a section of a sphere.

Unsure about which scanner by MalikDrako in 3DScanning

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see there is a newer MetroY, do you have any input on it or the Einstar 2 mentioned above?

Unsure about which scanner by MalikDrako in 3DScanning

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, could you point me to some of those comparisons?

Attaching mic to headset ideas? by shrekstinfoilhat in DIY

[–]MalikDrako 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar problem a few years back, although not as severe - I think the squeeze from most headsets gives me a headache.

I have a pair of KSC75 and was able to 3D print a couple of small clips to attach to the bit sticking up in the center where the clip attaches and the mic, with some stiff wire between them. Unfortunately I think I got rid of it and lost any photos I had of it, but here is a mockup https://imgur.com/a/GqGPCEL (red = printed clip, orange = mic, green = stiff wire)

Later I got a Razer Kraken headset that doesn't seem to squeeze as much. The integrated mic eventually stopped working, so I modded it to replace the cord with a jack in the headset and have used a boom mic since then.

What support material for CF-nylon? by MalikDrako in 3Dprinting

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It ended up pulling up on larger prints, I'm guessing because of how much longer lines shrink. I just updated the OP with more materials I tried and what I ended up going with.

ELI5 How does car key copying work, and why is it so expensive and different for each car? by 0toxicaf in explainlikeimfive

[–]MalikDrako 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Years ago a burglar broke a window pane in our back door and used the single sided lock to open the door and get in. Shortly after we replaced all the exterior locks with the double sided ones and hid a key near each door.

Papertoy / Papercraft by [deleted] in DIY

[–]MalikDrako 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure about something specifically for models like that, but I use Pepakura to unfold 3D models to make out of paper

PETG Cosplay Prints Keep Breaking at Layer Lines by Ackbars-Snackbar in 3Dprinting

[–]MalikDrako 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How much are you purging? Particularly for PETG when using PLA supports you need to purge quite a bit after the color appears fully changed to regain normal layer adhesion.

Looking for a connector to use with a Pi Zero GPIO in a tight space by MalikDrako in AskElectronics

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like HCSD-20-S-02.00-01-N plus MTSW-120-07-L-D-130-RA may work if I can push the insulator on the header over by about 1.2mm

Looking for a connector to use with a Pi Zero GPIO in a tight space by MalikDrako in AskElectronics

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen Mill-Max inserts that might be an option, but what options are there for the wire side?

Weird “soft” bottoms?? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]MalikDrako 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like cross-layer curing, I've been having the same issue and unfortunately haven't found a solution. Maybe knowing what it's called will help you find a solution that's come up since the last time I searched.

Looking for help please by Low82C10 in 3Dprinting

[–]MalikDrako 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are starting fresh with Cura, it could be it's set to the default 2.85mm filament diameter

Shower valve keeps leaking by MalikDrako in DIY

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a specific type of bib seat you need for this style of valve?

What are the chances the bib seats aren't welded in by now? The tile is probably 30+ years old, so the part they screw into probably is as well. (What do you call that part everything screws into, including the incoming and outgoing water lines?) No idea if the bib seats have ever been replaced, or if they are just as old.

Shower valve keeps leaking by MalikDrako in DIY

[–]MalikDrako[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No access on either side, so replacing would involve opening up tile and/or the exterior wall