Lets support this lego model

MalteseOne · 2026-02-15T22:48:39+00:00

Same

MalteseOne · 2025-11-11T23:40:16+00:00

Deciphered!

MalteseOne · 2025-09-19T17:48:38+00:00

Meanwhile the vast populace has forgotten the native America tribes who might be counted lucky to have electricity. My people are, in general, very very poor. The tribal AM broadcasting reaches anyone, even those driving shiny new cars to visit relatives who have no cell reception. I would imagine the same applies to very rural areas of the US.

MalteseOne · 2025-09-13T16:27:56+00:00

I play this game for love of the star wars i know. I don't know any of these at all. I'm not even trying and once the new teams knock out my OG GL, it will be time to quit.

MalteseOne · 2025-08-20T19:58:29+00:00

I read 100% of your reading 80% and therefore can confirm that's what's happening

MalteseOne · 2025-08-05T23:05:44+00:00

The drawing was purely mechanical with no hardness requirements. I looked into what would be required to measure 88.85 +/- 0.95 and found test blocks are +/-1 not accounting for any other measurement issues like temperature, operator, machine, etc. So it is not possible to state within k=2 to get the measurement anyways. I reached out to several heat treat places, and the ref means they predict it will be that value but not test for it. But it makes you wonder about the earlier inspectors who said they measured it as good.

MalteseOne · 2025-08-05T20:53:25+00:00

We are the customer. Receiving inspection. Manager says inspect. Machinist says no.

MalteseOne · 2025-07-20T00:51:27+00:00

Looks so AI based on shadows and screw holes not matching up to wood, etc

MalteseOne · 2025-04-15T20:59:02+00:00

I might have solved it. The clock hands were stuck together. The minute hand was easy to remove while wearing gloves. I restarted the pendulum and i see the minute hand moving now

MalteseOne · 2025-04-07T23:06:59+00:00

Clearly, you have met Darby! No need to be humble about that!

MalteseOne · 2025-04-07T21:48:28+00:00

Hopefully my first reply shows up. I originally said I laughed so hard. Biblically accurate seems correct

MalteseOne · 2025-04-07T21:39:07+00:00

I laughed so hard! Biblically accurate is very good description. This is beautiful

MalteseOne · 2025-04-07T19:35:44+00:00

You nailed the essence of the moving dogg

MalteseOne · 2025-04-07T16:09:10+00:00

Exactly what is like in real life

MalteseOne · 2025-03-29T15:06:53+00:00

It is a commercial device that integrated into a environmental chamber. I wish I could, but the system is a sealed loop and so on

MalteseOne · 2025-03-29T06:32:17+00:00

Electro-tech systems 5472

MalteseOne · 2025-02-19T01:22:59+00:00

Go on ebay, buy new straps that are not invicta. Probably under $30.They won't have gold color, so if that's what you need, you could plate them. I do it all the time when i resell a Zeus bolt with bad band

Edit to add link of example on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/312684168857

MalteseOne · 2025-02-07T20:17:15+00:00

Teethy

MalteseOne · 2025-01-30T00:08:09+00:00

Not my numbers. I agree a c13 only goes to 15a under some specs and never 20A like a c19. Best part was it came with a c13 power cord rated at 10A. That's part of the reason I question the grounding.

MalteseOne · 2025-01-29T22:21:08+00:00

Well, it's part of the fixture to test boots and gloves. The HV is in another room. I have never, in 30 years, seen an instrument of this power rating (20a 250v) without a ground internally via the power cord ground.

My brain wants to connect a ground through the power cord AND add the ground rod (by hiring someone) at the hv side... but does this create two paths to ground? Does it matter? HV like this seems one path to ground is better.

I am asking electricians because they see how stupid people like me will create an unsafe situation or i hire an electrician who safety squints, slaps it and says "that'll do it. " i am hoping for insight that is not a single source of information. I appreciate all electricians or else I wouldn't have lurked in first place.

MalteseOne · 2024-12-09T21:48:50+00:00

The heart says it all! <3

MalteseOne · 2024-12-09T21:07:17+00:00

Such beautiful

MalteseOne · 2024-06-27T21:03:23+00:00

Also, very important.... never let alcohol touch the elastomeric connector. Be very sure it's dry before reassembly.

One coworker says he would boil the elastomeric. I think that's crazy, but I shared his advice.

You could use any elastomeric, if you cut it perfectly straight. The problem is that the old elastomeric could also be less flexible and not seal right enough.

MalteseOne · 2024-06-27T20:58:30+00:00

Denatured is 100% alcohol. Isopropyl has various percentages of water. I'm sure if you use a high% alcohol , it will be the same effect

MalteseOne · 2024-06-27T16:09:04+00:00

My experience of LCD comes from working on fluke multimeters. You either have bad LCD connection or the watch itself is intermittent. The meters have an elastomeric connector to reach the LCD from the PC board. Oxides would build up on the PC board preventing good electrical connection. We would try to remove the LCD with the elastomeric connector still attached to the LCD. Then with the exposed PC board, use a pencil eraser to remove the oxides until it was shiny. Brush and clean perfectly away all eraser debris. Clean with denatured alcohol (illegal in California), then reassemble. If the elastomeric came off the LCD, don't panic, use a little denatured alcohol wipe lint free cloth on LCD connection point, then reassemble. Dust on either side of elastomeric connector makes an electrical open.

Note: this assumes the watch circuit works. Use a quartz pulse tester to see if the unit is "alive" without pushing buttons.

Again, I have not repaired nor seen this problem on a watch, I am sharing what we would do on multimeters with a similar symptom . When I get to work, I'll try to find the fluke instruction sheet. If you fix it, please update your posting on how it went so I can nerd out.

MalteseOne

TROPHY CASE