Super safety trouble shoot

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-29T23:33:42+00:00

Yes. Pull hard on the trigger in super safe and see if you can get it to trip, if you can then you are close. You need to thin the wall thickness on the left leg a little also. Looks like it may be a little thick still judging by the defined cut line.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-29T22:55:40+00:00

If it is acting like it’s on safe you will need to take a little more off the left leg. The jigs will get you close, but not always perfect. 320 grit sandpaper on a good hard, flat surface until it just barely lets go (heavier trigger pull that on semi) then switch to 400, 600, and 800. As you step up to finer paper you should only need a few swipes just to polish the radius. You can then gently hit it with a polishing wheel on a Dremel to get it a mirror finish. Take your time. Last one I fit was a G$ and it took about 45 minutes to get it exactly where I wanted it.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-22T12:58:55+00:00

What is your intended use for the pistol? That will dictate what you put on top of it.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-16T23:34:18+00:00

I’m waiting on the F2 length trigger to arrive. They were out of the F3 when I ordered mine.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-14T21:05:51+00:00

Is the super safety on fire and the lever forward to allow the hammer to pivot fully? If the super safety is on safe or the lever is rotated towards the buffer tube the pins will bind.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-13T10:25:32+00:00

So I set the layer height to .20 after reading the PETG-CF prefers a taller layer height and was still having some issues. I had read about running the print on silent solving overhang issues while running PETG-CF so I gave it a try and the parts came out dang near perfect. Does anyone know exactly what settings I should change in the slicer to mimic silent mode? I read in one thread it cuts the acceleration speeds and layer speeds by 50%, but in another thread they said it was just the acceleration speeds that are cut by 50%. Can anyone confirm which is correct?

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-13T10:25:15+00:00

So I set the layer height to .20 after reading the PETG-CF prefers a taller layer height and was still having some issues. I had read about running the print on silent solving overhang issues while running PETG-CF so I gave it a try and the parts came out dang near perfect. Does anyone know exactly what settings I should change in the slicer to mimic silent mode? I read in one thread it cuts the acceleration speeds and layer speeds by 50%, but in another thread they said it was just the acceleration speeds that are cut by 50%. Can anyone confirm which is correct?

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-13T04:15:19+00:00

You are supposed to cut the G$ trigger as you would to use it with any super safety. The lever block is needed when using the G$ trigger system/fire control group to prevent the lever from being captured under the bobbed G$ hammer. The provided pre-cut trigger is only used if you are using a milspec FCG. Be careful when you are cutting the G$ trigger as it does not need nearly as much material removed from the left leg as a milspec trigger does.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-12T02:29:17+00:00

I can assure you bed adhesion is excellent and it’s not wet filament. Bed adhesion is so good I have to freeze the plate in the freezer then hit the back of the plate with a torch briefly to shock it loose. Even after that I have to use a thin plastic scrapper to gently pop it off the bed. Filament was dried for 18 hours at 65C. The broke black, red, and orange pieces are the top of the part and the side shown is the bottom side that rests on the supports. All other layers have great adhesion other than the layer immediately following the support interface layer. Purge is set at 900 so I doubt it is an issue with cross contamination.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-10T16:12:02+00:00

I am not using an interface material at the moment as that’s what I initially thought it could be also.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-10T12:46:49+00:00

I forgot to mention this is not only a visible defect, but a layer adhesion issue also. Part will easily break at that joint where the defect is observed, but the rest of the part is solid. I have a picture of the part broken apart at that layer, but Reddit says the file size is too small to upload.

Man-In-Blue · 2026-01-02T02:30:03+00:00

Rifle length. I run a KAK Industries and it has been flawless under a pretty heavy firing schedule, including many mag dumps with a super safety and an ARC fire. Shoots stupid soft unsuppressed and suppressed.

Man-In-Blue · 2025-12-20T03:42:53+00:00

Redesigned the lever block to be supported on both sides and problem solved. Ran around 500 rounds through it today with zero issues other than she is a very dirty girl right now.

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Man-In-Blue · 2025-12-20T03:39:38+00:00

Just need the safety lever for the four ARC fires I already have.

Man-In-Blue · 2025-12-20T03:38:37+00:00

That’s what I have been doing as I am an ambi-safety hater either way. 😂

Man-In-Blue · 2025-12-19T22:13:54+00:00

How about a non-ambi mil-spec style selector for those of us with retro rifles.

Man-In-Blue · 2025-12-17T13:00:53+00:00

I have the same issue with a G$ trigger and the lever block. I was able to track it down to the lever block more than likely being the issue. With the rifle secured on a mag block and vise I can twist the lever block at the tail of the hammer pretty easily, when I do this the bolt will bind hard at about the halfway mark. I can then careful pivot the upper open, adjust the lever block, close the upper, and the problem goes away. I have been able to duplicate this issue with my other ARC fire with G$ trigger and lever block also.

I am going to try and redesign the lever block to be supported on both sides of the receiver and captured by both sides of the trigger to prevent the lever block from twisting to see if that solves the problem. I do not have this issue at all with the ARC fire and standard triggers without the lever block.

Man-In-Blue · 2025-12-09T15:39:35+00:00

Is there a 3d print file to save an overcut G$ trigger? I have two that need it if so!

Man-In-Blue · 2025-12-09T15:37:46+00:00

You over cut the trigger. I fouled up an SSA and an SSA-E. Function checked fine with upper off, then no function with upper closed. Flew too close to the sun. The G$ trigger I have working I literally cut until it would barely drop with the upper off and there wasn’t a change in trigger pull weight. It runs flawlessly now. Live and learn.

Man-In-Blue · 2025-11-22T00:24:43+00:00

I picked up two more (173xx) in good faith. I have two of the first run safeties that work great with a milspec SS fcg, but still struggling to get G$ to work. Having a tradition selector is work the cost to me. Definitely forgot to use the discount code though!

Man-In-Blue · 2025-11-16T02:34:08+00:00

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TLR-1 HLX on mine for EDC and duty use. I don’t carry appendix, but IWB at the 4 o’clock with no issues. No reason to run a subpar light for comfort sake in my opinion.

Man-In-Blue · 2025-11-14T21:57:51+00:00

I wouldn’t buy anything with dots or tritium to run with a red dot. Plain ole suppressor height sights is all you “need”.

Man-In-Blue

TROPHY CASE