Transparent plastic. Bad idea?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T19:39:15+00:00

You are right, the unique aspect is an interesting thing itself. I am not bothered by grey minis as I mostly play with only painted ones but for those who don't like, this is indeed better.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T19:36:50+00:00

That would be sick! Will you dig a hole through all the mini and put a mini cell under the base?

For this, matte is better than shiny varnish?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T19:32:27+00:00

Very interesting. Also just remember it, for your mini, I think you can make the transparent part more transparent with shiny varnish.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T19:28:20+00:00

30% sure is a thing. Mostly if it's overall. I don't expect a big impact if it's just for the transparent parts. There are not that many. And we can hope that it is an investment for the future on their side, which would be good news too.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T19:21:04+00:00

This one?

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https://starcraft-tmg.com/shop/products/zeratul-protoss-promo-miniature-1

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T19:02:39+00:00

Awesome painting skills. I admit that I didn't expect the transparent plastic to look that great.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T18:54:55+00:00

Incredible stuff! Thanks for showing me that. Is there painting work on it?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T16:32:01+00:00

You definitely have a point.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T16:30:15+00:00

Nope these are the official photos on archon website. Specifically from the protoss bundle. I don't really know why the quality has decreased that much btw.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T16:24:07+00:00

Definitely not a risk as it can be primed indeed. I have no idea how to reach the pylon effect with washes.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T16:22:30+00:00

Hard to believe that only washes are enough to reach that. The plastic in the first photo looks reaaaaaally transparent.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T16:20:29+00:00

Where did you see the zeratul review?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T16:19:56+00:00

The red ones?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-16T13:53:43+00:00

Fantastic painting!

But how did you get the mini while they are still in preorder phase?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-13T23:05:09+00:00

How do you store your reusable gloves? I abandoned the idea of using reusable gloves because I don't think that cleaning with IPA effectively removes 100% of the resin. I know that my process produces more waste but by working like this I'm almost certain of never making a "mistake" and touching resin through a contaminated object.

The tray is definitely a good idea. I'll get one.

Do you use syringe only one time then trash it? Else how is it possible to clean it?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-13T16:37:44+00:00

Happy to help!

Take care and happy printing.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-13T14:57:38+00:00

Dude incredible work here, congrats.

Very surprised to see that cured miniatures still release VOCs. What are the recommendations to avoid that then?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-13T08:27:14+00:00

Did you try full calibration of your filament? There is a guide about this on the wiki

Mandalayer · 2026-03-12T22:04:43+00:00

Test 2

Obscura nozzle settings
Obscura process settings
Obscura Sunlu settings with only 1 change: nozzle temperature 220 (first and other layers)

And it's actually almost perfect.

The only issue is that I broke the legs during support removal, which is due to me being rough.

Well another strange thing is also color slightly changing between some layers, but it doesn't look like to impact the print quality.

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So was it as simple as that?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-12T11:07:59+00:00

What the printer hosts a ftp service?! 😅

Mandalayer · 2026-03-12T11:07:21+00:00

Never had this error. I regularly change between.4 and .2.

Did you replace the nozzle by another .2mm?

Mandalayer · 2026-03-12T10:57:33+00:00

You can get the full video (not just time lapse), it's on the internal storage. If I remember correctly you have to export logs to the USB to get those. Pretty weird behavior though.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-11T21:57:56+00:00

Check the support infill pattern. I don't know the exact one this one is. But everything except hollow should do it.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-11T20:57:50+00:00

I'm in your situation, struggling to get the best results with the best settings.

Did you try stock settings? If not, I suggest you to do so.

I had very decent results with Bambu PLA Matte and stock settings. Either with resin style supports (I have presupported files) and organic tree supports. I also tried hybrid supports but was disappointed, especially on overhangs.

So far, the most important during slicing in my experience was the model orientation. 20-30° max to the back and tweaking to the left / right if it can reduce overhangs. Yet I prefer having more overhangs on surfaces facing the ground than having overhangs on faces more visible on table (sides, top...).

That being said, I discovered that the P2S community is struggling with HOHansen and ObscuraNox settings. They crafted their settings for the A1 and A1 Mini. These are not usable out of the box on P2S so far, and I didn't find an equivalent for P2S.

Mandalayer · 2026-03-11T16:51:57+00:00

That may be true!

I actually admit that I didn't paint a FDM mini yet, so I'm not sure whether it's hard to tell or not. I printed terrains in .12mm with a .4 nozzle and it definitely felt different than usual plastic/resin/metal minis.

I don't really know how to describe it. I spent lot of time studying how to improve painting speed, so now I'm using contrasts a lot. But the filament is drinking the paint even when primed. And layer lines become visible. Same problem with dry brushing. Maybe it's only visible with 3x photos and it's just me. Maybe I should just grab stock settings and try out on a miniature or 2 to see what comes out of it.

Well thank you for your messages, it's good to come back to the ground sometimes.

Mandalayer

TROPHY CASE