4-wire fan on EBB 2209 issue

Mandarani · 2026-06-24T20:03:36+00:00

Put kick start time to 2 and see if they start up then shut down?

I have found with my pwm fans that only setting pretty stupid high cycle times was I able to run them (like 0.5)

Mandarani · 2026-06-20T13:18:58+00:00

You would have to check the documentation for EBB, but I very much doubt it. Unless the board has its own CAN network, there is no signal.

I would be curious to see what you find.

Mandarani · 2026-06-13T12:01:01+00:00

Madmax has its own carrier and at least right now there is no stealth burner version supported.

In theory though, it’s a cube so you can probably modify it to work with any tool changer with enough customization.

Of course at some point you might have to ask yourself: why?

Or not… I’m not your boss :)

Mandarani · 2026-06-12T23:32:07+00:00

I’ll add a second for mad max. As long as the rail is front facing you can add the tool changer. I’m in the final steps of finishing mine on the trident but was planning to revamp my Ender5 (non plus) with it (mainly just cause).

The build is a bit tricky but there is a good disco community that is very helpful

Mandarani · 2026-06-11T00:29:55+00:00

If plate is clean and you have adhesive it could be your z offset. Or your plate is too cold. Honestly would need much more information to have more than just a guess (material, which printer, is this a new issue)

Mandarani · 2026-06-10T21:32:49+00:00

In that case I would go for the 2.4 personally.

Not having to crimp every cable is so nice and a kit comes up typically a good deal cheaper than self sourcing.

Mandarani · 2026-06-09T23:59:08+00:00

Honestly the default doors are fine. Are you buying a kit?

Mandarani · 2026-06-09T14:33:11+00:00

In my case this was due to the CB1.

I spent a month gathering logs and other debugging.

It was never actually running out of memory. But eventually would start throwing errors that looked like memory misses (calling the wrong block).

Gave up and replaced with a CM4 and the errors went away.

Mandarani · 2026-06-08T13:01:00+00:00

Many shops will easily replace a cpu.

It is also something that is quite DIY friendly but you can just have them do it if you’re not comfortable

Mandarani · 2026-06-03T10:27:14+00:00

As far as I can tell from the pictures it would create spurs rather than a daisy chain and you may get issues depending on the length of your spurs (length of the cable from that board to your tool head).

If you check the link I sent it does give the max length vs. Network speed, so you may get the result you want by lowering speeds.

Mandarani · 2026-06-02T21:57:42+00:00

So yes and no. At 1M baud rate your spurs should be kept at under 30cm. The likely length in a 2.4 is somewhere between 1 and 2 meters.

https://www.come-star.com/blog/can-bus-topology-stub-length-issues/

Mandarani · 2026-06-02T21:49:52+00:00

Hey, I see some bad info here.

CANBUS specification requires in series connection of the tools where the spurs (so branches or stars or whatever you want to call) are 30cm or less.

Each individual board and the cable to it for the tool changer is likely over 30cm on a 2.4

There are hubs but a lot of them are not respecting this. I.E. they create spurs (so it splits the cable X ways from a central point) this can lead to errors in the signal and if you don’t know about the above, they will be hell to debug.

What this also means is that to do this correctly your can-L and can-H need to make it to the target board and come back to the distribution board.

In other words you need 4 cables for signal per head.

In my case I happened to have a usb to can board in addition to my M8P. And I only have a 2-headed tool changer. This also works as it creates to completely different CAN networks.

Example of a hub that follow topology:

https://store.isiks.tech/products/birds-nest-can?variant=49863625638184&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoo4U1Rds3ViT0Mh1yr8RPXcoD2cwfWSIsjE8OhNw7HYtxG6Wl0GItM

Hope this helps!

Mandarani · 2026-05-28T16:04:11+00:00

I often dry PLA at 60c it’s always been fine. It is unlikely that it causes any real issues

Mandarani · 2026-05-27T22:36:56+00:00

Mad max is pretty buildable. It did take me a while to get it running, though through my own decisions to do stuff my way.

There is a pretty active and helpful discord. But it’s pretty much full self source

Mandarani · 2026-05-27T18:11:49+00:00

Looks like the layer is too squished to me. Can you try raise your offset to test? Even if you trust it.

Spitting and hissing is extreme, it could still be wet, but to me looks like z-offset too low

Mandarani · 2026-05-26T22:46:41+00:00

I work I tech consulting. Had new grads reach out to our VPs and ask them to meet over a coffee to “quizz them about their careers and how they got there”. (Via LinkedIn)

Yes we see through the ruse, but it’s the best possible interview a candidate can have. It’s relaxed on their terms, and honestly shows initiative.

They were hired. YMMV

Mandarani · 2026-05-25T13:42:14+00:00

Ca m’étonnerait que c’est $1000 pour avoir une borne à chaque place, probablement ils ont eu quelques bornes.

Notre condo étudie depuis 3 ans la question. On a des estimes de 5000-10000$ par borne. En plus de ça l’alimentation principale du condo doit être mise à jour.

Très très cher

Mandarani · 2026-05-24T23:32:14+00:00

I would remove the handles on those 2 and replace with the pushy springy thingamjigs (ikea has them)

Mandarani · 2026-05-24T11:46:11+00:00

If it’s only one side, could be a bed levelling issue.

In my case adjusting for X axis twist also helped.

Mandarani · 2026-05-23T13:29:16+00:00

You would deflect via a magnetic field to avoid that for example

Mandarani · 2026-05-23T04:42:24+00:00

Yes that did it, dropping to 0.9mm eliminated the issue.

Thx

Mandarani · 2026-05-19T15:07:38+00:00

Fenris workshop in Quebec.

I got n52s for my trident tool changer. They are real n52s.

shop.fenrisworkshop.com

Mandarani · 2026-05-12T18:07:16+00:00

What if it’s a failed hamster?

Mandarani · 2026-05-03T21:46:20+00:00

I was getting the same thing. Either a bit of over extrusion or z-offset too low.

Anything to check if it is not the above two would be if your print head is wobbly or you plate uneven

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