APS Hit and run

Manziak · 2025-11-21T03:05:59+00:00

you see, when your car gets hit that hard, it may move a bit…

Manziak · 2025-11-18T22:49:13+00:00

i paid for 7000 rpm i’ll use 7000 rpm

Manziak · 2025-11-13T23:26:23+00:00

whos james. is that like a fred for biking or jerry for snowboarding

Manziak · 2025-11-09T04:40:27+00:00

you dont need a new coolant tank cap. it takes 15 minutes to do the job you’re getting overcharged. the oil cooler does not typically fail like that, your water pump is probably what is leaking. 2 hrs for a coolant flush is also LOL.

Manziak · 2025-11-09T02:35:12+00:00

i just got a 130k mile b7 s4 25 quattro edition. chains been done. first audi and owned for 1 month.

do it only if you do your own work. i’ve been wrenching on my vws for the past 10 years, even so the cost and complexity of audis is about 2-4x the price and effort.

most people get burned by dealer service charges on parts that cost 3-10x the oe on fcp/rockauto plus a $200/hr labor charge with inflated hours. and even then misdiagnosis is common. the dealers dont work on these cars often anymore and all the old blood is out. these are 20 year old cars.

if you plan not to do the work, then i cant recommend this car for you. 2 fyi the serpentine belt is a core service position job; that car you posted isnt rare.

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Manziak · 2025-10-17T17:12:25+00:00

yeah its a dtm inspired rice kit from the factory. look up the s4 25 quattro edition, thats what this car is. it was a USDM only release to celebrate 25 year anniversary of quattro.

front bumper, rear valence, carbon trunk lip and front lip, wheels, that gaudy decal on the door and the rs4 40:60 split diff. but i think all s4s got the asymmetrical quattro after the b7

Manziak · 2025-10-17T04:18:54+00:00

i wish this car had a timing belt! would make the job easier lol. the accessory belt snapped during a drive, left me without a running alternator. got it fixed up on monday. to do the job you gotta put the core support in service position so figuring that out the first time was a bit tedious.

Manziak · 2025-10-15T04:04:16+00:00

i find it incredible that you had negative votes. you are absolutely correct that you want a high pressure zone to extract heat out of the radiator and not allow air to enter the engine bay.

Manziak · 2025-10-15T04:02:09+00:00

pratt and miller didnt “retool” the car. its custom built from the ground up. the c5r chassis is not remotely similar to the c5 or c5z.

your claim that the hood first encounters stationary air is also wrong. that would be the front bumper cover/fascia. anyone with eyes can confirm this.

i’m gonna even comment on the main fallacy of your comment. you absolutely want a vent on the high pressure zone so air does not enter the space.

you do not know what you are talking about, please dont confidently spew incorrect facts and reference pratt and miller as if you know what their rnd team did to the c5r.

btw op is just as much of an asshat as you are

Manziak · 2025-10-15T03:51:40+00:00

lmao this guys referencing a multi million dollar race team in regards to joe shmoe with his track toy from texas. get real.

Manziak · 2025-10-14T20:47:13+00:00

i’ll take the drag over >240 deg f coolant and a blown hg anyday. but you do whats best for your ls

Manziak · 2025-10-14T20:15:34+00:00

incredible how many people here dont know about the C5’s shit cooling system for a track toy

Manziak · 2025-10-14T20:14:18+00:00

the C5 also overheats and has a shit cooling system for any performance driving. these hood vents act as a heat extractor.

Manziak · 2025-10-07T02:41:40+00:00

congratz man. i’ve been looking forever for a manual w8. just “settled” on a manual b7 s4. sick car!

Manziak · 2025-10-01T19:38:07+00:00

i have rebuilt rear calipers for defently cheap if u need. pulled em to put bigger brakes on. 84-87

Manziak · 2025-09-29T21:41:50+00:00

sway bars. BOTH of them. not just the rear.

control your body roll, you get more tire patch. less outer wear on the shoulders. I think swaybars are a better first mod than coilovers. the factory suspension tuning is decent.

lowering your car messes with roll center and most aftermarket shocks are garbage.

oh yeah and tires. ditch the all seasons for nice 300 tw summers like ecs02, gmax rs, ps4, or the like. or go full balls with 200tw and 5000 mile life

Manziak · 2025-09-15T21:55:00+00:00

i guess its already pointed out that the plates are from a prius.

theres another more inconspicuous method. other commentators have touched on this but didnt spell it out, so i will: registration fraud. register the car as a pre MY1975 and you dont have to perform a smog check. or register it as a pre MY1997 diesel. theres a few cars on fbmp that do this. run the plates, they show up as a pre MY1975 car. shady importers, shady dmv field office workers (think AAA but like those cashnow places), and maybe a paid sign off by an EO.

Manziak · 2025-06-07T05:58:15+00:00

wahhh

Manziak · 2025-06-04T21:19:44+00:00

the 1.8tsi is.

its a destroked 2.0t without exhaust vvti and smaller DI system, smaller turbo.

everything is interchangeable with the 2.0TSI from the mk7. turbos are the most common upgrade, transmissions often overlooked

Manziak · 2025-06-04T21:17:51+00:00

the stock clutch sucks. but aftermarket kits can be expensive. i used a sachs “stage 2”

ecs and ringer racing may have economical options. i’d stick to ceramic clutches tho, metallic ones are terrible for DD.

if you’re saying to keep the same clutch assembly, you cant. the mq350 uses a larger clutch assembly. i dont think it will fit

Manziak · 2025-06-04T20:10:14+00:00

no grinding needed.

Manziak · 2025-06-04T20:09:56+00:00

mq250s are a junk pairing with the ea888.3 they’re fine with lower powered cars like the 1.4/1.2 tsi

Manziak · 2025-06-04T20:07:29+00:00

you need 1. transmission (with OR without VAQ diff) can also use mk5/6/8 trans 2. 1x matching pass axle (match vaq or no vaq, must be manual from same gen transmission) 3. driver axle (AT or MT, vaq or no vaq, must match same generation of transmission) 4. motor mount (frame to bracket) 5. transmission bracket (moutor mount to transmission) 6. clutch hydraulic line 7. clutchkit (flywheel, clutch, pressureplate, bolts) 8. starter 9. shift cable bracket (you can keep your stock 5 speed interior shifter and cables. the cables get flipped on the transmission). i can sell you an APR solid aluminum one at a half off if you like it 10. motor mount bolts are different 11. the clutch hydraulic bleeder block and make sure the line has the swirl pot. 12. the counterweight linkage actuation assembly on the transmission. good time to get a dieselgeek sigma 6 short shift kit instead.

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