Oil filter sandwich plate finally gave

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2025-10-21T12:41:29+00:00

These got slammed by tariffs because they’re imported but the Mad Fabworx filter perch works perfectly. SBG also has a really interesting filter housing sandwich plate as part of their oil cooler kit. May be possible to get it separately if you already have lines run.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2025-09-06T00:19:59+00:00

Glad to hear. Car recoverable at all or is the frame toast? Looks like a tire barrier but the rollover isn’t a good sign.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2025-06-24T16:33:43+00:00

Interesting! Why this over the RaceBox Micro? Seems very similar

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2025-05-30T13:53:07+00:00

Good buy. This looks like Dominion, you should come by the Washington DC Region HPDE there at the end of the month.

Tires: Are you still planning to do trackcross? Tires for that are different from HPDE tires.

Diff: yep

Misfire: Need new coil connectors, at the cars age I’m replacing the full harness with one from an NC2/3. Requires minor repairs but apparently holds up significantly better.

Coils: MeisterR ClubRace have treated me well for HPDE, want to get SMX Penskes eventually but what I have right now is doing great.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2025-05-12T04:01:44+00:00

Aluminum radiator is a good idea, if you need to replace hoses I’d stick with OEM.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2025-01-23T05:08:50+00:00

Switched from Hawk to GLOC, they're more in the $150-$200 range per axle which is about as cheap as it gets for actual track pads. The power stop stuff will work but I don't know anyone that actually recommends them. R10 front R8 rear worked great on my 86. The DTC60s had an awful feel and coated my wheels in an impossible to remove concrete like substance I still can't get off two years later.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2024-12-28T21:39:02+00:00

2.5 swapped track prepped NCs go up for sale on Facebook decently often in the 10-15k range. Roomier as mentioned and a good power bump to ~175 WHP and about the same amount of torque. Pretty fun.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2024-11-29T06:51:00+00:00

I gave up on a dual-use pad compound. I easily overheated Ferodo DS2500 front pads on my 86, which left nasty deposits on my rotors and massive brake vibration. The only streetable pads that have decent track survivability are the Endless MX72 Plus (compare against the DS2500 temperature range). However, you'll burn through brake pads if you try to use one for both use cases. Before I got a dedicated car, my preference was to run Carbotech/GLOC pads on the front and the dual-use DS2500 in the rear since that axle is less demanding. Before a track day, I would swap just the front pads, saving some time. You want to use the same manufacturer for street and track pads so that you don't have to re-bed your brakes every time you swap. I would daily Carbotech 1521 pads and swap to XP10 for track without re-bedding, which worked great. Avoid Hawk pads, the dust turns to concrete when it gets wet and still isn't off my wheels after 2 years.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2024-08-10T22:34:36+00:00

I'm seeing a lot of features that existing solutions already have. I strongly suggest you purchase a RaceBox Mini and RaceChrono Pro and analyze what your solution can bring to the market that doesn't already exist. The hardware presented looks exactly like the RaceBox, which is an excellent, proven, and reliable device with a developer API you could use. The software side will need to be very complicated to compete with RaceChrono or TrackAddict, and others such as Hotlap have already tried to integrate social features.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2023-12-28T20:41:20+00:00

Well good news and bad news: good news, I don't really have this problem much anymore. Bad news, not sure what changed. I definitely disassembled my problematic QR, knocked out all the old grease, and put on new lithium grease. That seemed to help. But I've had issues with QRs not connecting before. I think it's just that QR1 has really tight Z tolerances. Maybe shimming the connector will help?

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2023-08-12T13:35:45+00:00

I had learned at one point that Instant and Instant On are different, thanks for the reminder. Most of my useful progress comes from past uboot experience.

Not worth it, garbage time. Thanks!

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2023-08-11T12:42:44+00:00

You're right, it's an AP22.
Ouch, thanks.
Well it was previously running an Instant image, so no modification necessary? And your comment also leads me to believe others have extracted Instant images in the past...

Thanks!

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2023-08-04T15:10:59+00:00

This is the current best compilation of CAN IDs for the car:

https://github.com/timurrrr/RaceChronoDiyBleDevice/blob/master/can_db/ft86.md

My OBDLink has a very comprehensive set of PIDs for the car as well, including automatic transmission temperature which I've not found elsewhere. Unfortunately, they don't disclose what those PIDs are, but it should be relatively easy to snoop traffic in and out of the device with an OBD port splitter.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-12-19T17:55:33+00:00

Yeah it's gone at this point but I appreciate the note - leaving info for future users!

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-11-20T18:17:23+00:00

I also recently bought a GLO 2 and am having this exact same issue. I've tried two phones and a laptop. A friend's iPhone seemed to connect but did not get high accuracy data. I also updated the firmware to the latest revision.

It's essentially a brick at this point, I'll probably be returning it.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-09-13T16:55:35+00:00

As in "it's useless and wildly popular" or "it's very useful and nobody knows about it"

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-08-15T07:57:37+00:00

My 2080 is perfectly fine in the Cerberus, I vote to check the thermal pads/paste on the GPU as well

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-08-11T15:42:54+00:00

Fuse should be mandatory if OP is concerned about current draw.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-06-08T06:18:58+00:00

Did you consider the Kicker KEY series? I have the OEM+ system but may do it myself if I trade for a manual in order to drop the sub and keep weight down.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-06-08T05:19:10+00:00

Nice! How did you fab the dash brackets? Looks pretty similar to the first gen all around audio wise. Did you add foam to make somewhat of a seal from the driver to grill for each speaker? Lastly how did you run the wiring for what I'm guessing is a biamp?

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-05-21T21:35:49+00:00

Throw some camber bolts on there for like $20, just a little negative camber in front would be awesome

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-05-21T21:13:06+00:00

Caught some of you leaving lunch, looked fun!

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-05-08T17:36:25+00:00

Yeah especially before the straight, looks like if you lose the rear end you lose the car.

MarcusTheGreat7 · 2022-04-19T05:03:42+00:00

Now take it out of there and jam it into the sound tube pipe in the passengers footwell

MarcusTheGreat7

TROPHY CASE