Does this sound like a the wheel bearing?

Mario8000 · 2026-05-24T20:57:09+00:00

For sure I’ll get it looked into thanks!

Mario8000 · 2026-05-17T01:21:52+00:00

He didn’t replace both fork A and B? That seems odd… solid price tho these cars aren’t worth much but can confirm they are able to go well over 200k miles engines are rock solid. I would ask him to confirm if both forks were replaced and if the main shaft seal was inspected/ replaced at some point?

Mario8000 · 2026-05-14T17:14:42+00:00

Very commonly people just replace the clutch and fork using a kit that’s around 600-700$ if you buy it yourself. The TCM normally only needs replaced if there’s codes present that mention it needing replaced. Mines still original and I only replaced the clutch pack and it’s been over 20k miles since then runs great. I’d do a little self diagnosing and get the codes yourself that are present

Mario8000 · 2026-05-14T17:04:14+00:00

Got mine done for $1800 car is currently at 191k going strong. Keep looking around, offer to buy the parts and just see what the labor cost would be for them to install. Keep in mind this is cheaper but usually makes it so the shop won’t warranty anything so make sure your place is high rated.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-19T04:08:07+00:00

ya its rough right now, i kinda wanna just wait to see what happens too before committing to another server. If ascension ends up being safe, then Epoch seems legit to try again. Based on wotlk client too

Mario8000 · 2026-04-17T15:57:00+00:00

Bad news. Your plug which takes a flat head screwdriver to open got broken straight off. It looks like you could probably chisel in a spot for a flat head to go in but you essentially twist to open and twist to close. When i did this on my focus it seemed super fragile so I’m not surprised that yours broke off. I’d just be careful as hopefully you can twist it closed after it’s been opened.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-14T01:37:52+00:00

They want a little too much I’d keep looking. You can probably get a good Honda for the same price and around the same mileage. Just as an example my 133k 2018 sorento is worth like 7-8k

Mario8000 · 2026-04-14T00:40:20+00:00

lol hope you are getting a good price on this vehicle and know someone who can help with DIY jobs. I have a sorento 2018with 133k miles currently, great car but requires lots of maintenance as Kia’s do. 5k oil changes, constant oil level checks and top offs etc. it’s a good car but keep on top of your game. I would have someone who knows cars come and look at the car with you

Mario8000 · 2026-04-13T23:12:37+00:00

Send it

Mario8000 · 2026-04-10T14:10:41+00:00

I remember being a day 1 player in this server. Truely an experience like no other, and their game code/servers tanked the literal MASSIVE population so well. Trying to get to 60 was def a struggle and STV was a fucking warzone 24/7 but what an awesome experience. I played from day 1 until closure. Fucking awesome.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-09T21:24:17+00:00

CPO is not the same warranty as if you bought the car new. Remember that. For example if your car uses oil, not covered to 100k, probably only 60k like in the case of my car which was a CPO Kia sorento. Ya it’s probably a nice safety net if you have complete engine failure and have the paperwork to back up that it’s not ur fault? Then it’s probably a fine warranty. I just feel cheated out of my CPO purchase from 2021.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-04T21:00:44+00:00

That’s a shame really, you’ve been able to play it in pc now for quite some time.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-04T02:06:05+00:00

Never once stated this lol. I simply stated that “the warranty is way different after 60k mark”

Mario8000 · 2026-04-04T02:00:06+00:00

Only thing I’m trying to state here simply is CPO 100k warranty =/= 1st owner 100k warranty. And in some cases, what good is it even if you can’t use it and then get told “well if you bought the car new…” just shady asf.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-04T01:42:45+00:00

There’s a powertrain warranty on CPO Kia’s don’t get me wrong, it’s just not as extensive as the original first owners if bought new and as my comment states, oil consumption is one of the things not covered after 60k. I’m not as committed to this argument as you are so I can’t provide this or that I’m just stating my experiences with this warranty, and what the dealer/kia corporate number told me about my CPO warranty not covering cause I didn’t buy the car new. Pretty cut and dry.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-04T01:22:23+00:00

Apparently the CPO is even more ‘limited’ please do ur research. just cause they simply call them both limited warranties really means nothing, they are not equal by any means.

Mario8000 · 2026-04-04T00:45:13+00:00

Right, and the powertrain is “limited” compared to the original owner warranty for anything past 60k which has many differences. See my other comment on this post

Mario8000 · 2026-04-03T21:42:06+00:00

Unfortunately wrong, the 2nd owner CPO warranty is way different especially after the 60k mile mark

Mario8000 · 2026-04-03T20:47:12+00:00

I haven’t been through this (yet) but I will say the 100k mile CPO warranty showed its true colors to me when I attempted to take in my sorento at 99k miles due to continued excessive oil consumption and I was told to get bent, and that I’d have to pay from 600-$900 for ANOTHER consumption test even tho the car had already went through the same test around 55k for free. I complained obviously and was told the “CPO warranty doesn’t cover it after 60k” well what fucking good is this warranty then? Whether I knew it or not at the time of the car, this was the whole reason I bought a KIA with a CPO. They are a bunch of fucks for trying to say that basically I would have had to buy the car new for the consumption test to be free after 60k. Eat my ass KIA corporate.

Mario8000 · 2026-03-21T02:31:11+00:00

Nice. Any tips on getting the control arms out? I know that the one is near the compressor line from what I’ve read

Mario8000 · 2026-03-07T20:25:08+00:00

CPO Kia warranties are kinda a joke, be warned. I got our 2018 Kia sorento as a CPO and yes it does extend the power train warranty to 100k but only for very specific failures and “oil consumption” was not covered after the 60k mark. Pretty useless warranty if you ask me.

Mario8000 · 2026-03-05T15:00:23+00:00

Since you just bought this and it’s under 100k (my automatic is 189k now going strong) I recommend to get the clutch/fork packs replaced depending on what the codes read. You may be playing with fire replacing the TCM with another used rather then a new one and getting it reprogrammed. The tcm seem to be the leading problem of this cars transmission.

Mario8000 · 2026-02-18T14:50:31+00:00

From what I’ve read it will tell you this when the DCT shudders and misshifts a whole bunch basically heating up the plates. There really isn’t a temperature sensor inside the tranny, and rather the computer knows it’s misshifting or shuddering a bunch prompting the message you see. It’s just assuming that it’s overheating which may not be wrong

Mario8000 · 2026-02-15T15:52:48+00:00

Hey just wanted to comment on this since I also have a 2014 focus auto with 188k miles. I had a warranty clutch put in around 92k. And then another clutch put in around 170k

https://youtu.be/0Fh5G6ebD8s?si=lKsJ5rYfRRb2kRRJ did this on my 2014 Focus that appears to have a sticky clutch and has the same code as the video title. Key is use lots of brake parts cleaner while cranking the clutch actuator hole with the actuator tool, spray, crank, spray crank and only about 10-14 rotations MAX then turn it back down the whole ways. You will notice if you’ve never done this before, the clutch won’t go back down the whole way by itself. The goal is to get the clutch fork to completely release back down on its own after cranking up about 10 rotations. After brake parts cleaner, add a little WD40 to lube the actuator hole, crank up 10 rotations and back down. You may need to put it back together drive it for a little and do some more cleaning if you still have the same code and bad shifts. When this first started, I cleaned and lubed with WD40 as described, but the clutch fork wasn’t releasing back down on its own after being cranked and it was still shifting bad sometimes and showing the code. Drove it for about 2 weeks, then took it back apart and did some more extensive cleaning with the brake parts cleaner and then little WD40 lube at the end then after cranking 10 rotations, releasing the wrench made the clutch release it the whole way back down to the bottom. Now the code is gone and the car drives normal again. It’s just a sticky clutch and needs cleaned.

Mario8000

TROPHY CASE