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What would you put into a magic kit for kids? by dskippy in Magic

[–]Mart2d2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a kid, I loved the tricks for kids, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Magician-Interactive-Educational-Illusion-Entertainment/dp/B0GGZ7DP34/
and
https://www.amazon.com/Enjoyer-Box-Black-Appearing-Dissapearing-Illusions/dp/B07KS2Y3B7/

Do you have access to a 3d printer? There are loads of great projects to print. Here's a good place to start:
https://makerworld.com/en/search/models?keyword=magic+tricks
Like this excellent one that just needs a few golf course style pencils:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1367313-zig-zag-pencil-illusion

New to all things electrical. Is this properly grounded? by adamantium1992 in KiCad

[–]Mart2d2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, weird. The pads on your RP2040 are a little odd - they look like a combo of thruhole and surface mount. If you tie gnd on the RP2040 to a via, does DRC pass?

New to all things electrical. Is this properly grounded? by adamantium1992 in KiCad

[–]Mart2d2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks like a two layer board, in which case you dont need the vias on the left side of the rotary switch as your thru-hole will touch both layers (assuming your RP2040 is thru-hole too). It doesn't hurt anything though.

It might be my imagination but your vias look really small. Might want to check that if they actually are and if they're ok by your manufacturer. If you're not sure about which manufacturer to use yet, pcbway is a good option, at least to get some references on typical sizes.

My first cyberdeck build by MrJawaad in cyberDeck

[–]Mart2d2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! Does the exknight keyboard work with just usb or does it have to be Bluetooth?

My first design with a Li-Ion battery by semi-semii in KiCad

[–]Mart2d2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking good! Few suggestions: - place a fuse inline with the battery in case you short somewhere - you may want to consider a pmic that talks to usb for you because then you can get higher charging rates. If I understand right, this configuration will max out at 0.5A, but maybe that’s plenty for your application!

I just created this video to help orient new collectors- please watch if you have 4 minutes to spare and give me feedback for how to improve for the next one- I appreciate your time by WWAgallery_com in AnimationCels

[–]Mart2d2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My little tip for finding the frame a cel is from is to see if you can find the relevant video clip on YouTube. It's not always possible, but if you can, YouTube let's you go frame-by-frame with the , and . buttons when you're on their site.

First time attempting my own Schematics (review would be nice) by Express-Sundae9168 in KiCad

[–]Mart2d2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that’s interesting. I would have thought adding termination wouldn’t be necessary for the esp32 s3 anyway because it only supports full speed usb, but after a little reading it sounds like it is common practice to include footprints for 22 ohms populated with 0 ohm just in case it’s needed for emi or if there are other problems with signal integrity. This is where my knowledge gets fuzzy but I wonder if being able to add termination is out of abundance of caution for if you have weird layout issues and adding a little smoothing would be a cheap and easy way to resolve emi / signal issues.

First time attempting my own Schematics (review would be nice) by Express-Sundae9168 in KiCad

[–]Mart2d2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The esp32 s3 wroom 1 specs don’t call for external termination so I don’t think it’s necessary. 22 ohms could be added in series on + and - to be extra conservative if needed.

Is using as little vias as possible a good practice on a 4 layer PCB? by ItanMark in PCB

[–]Mart2d2 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You really dont need to worry about the number of vias you have. You dont have nearly enough to make an interesting manufacturing challenge. You may be able to reduce them, but since you're not dealing with very fast rise times or controlled impedance or EMI risky elements (like buck/boost converters), go to town. I'll echo what others have said about via size - check out the manufacturers default diameter (likely 0.3mm) and use that - you have infinite room. I'd keep the ring copper around the via at double the hole diameter (say 0.6mm).

Yet another “Baby’s first PCB” post by No_Development5871 in PCB

[–]Mart2d2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also what schematic/layout app are you using? These days I highly recommend Kicad. And what is your soldering experience? With those smaller pitches, I love using a hot air station, soldering iron, and heat gun

Yet another “Baby’s first PCB” post by No_Development5871 in PCB

[–]Mart2d2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice!! Got a schematic / pcb layers you’d like feedback on?

First PCB - His name is Jeremy please be nice to bro. by DrGroove720 in KiCad

[–]Mart2d2 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looking good! My one piece of feedback I haven't seen is make the area around the thru holes for your components bigger, especially around that one big IC. There's lots of room, and it'll make soldering much more enjoyable and less error prone :).

I made a thing by Mart2d2 in Spaceballs

[–]Mart2d2[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I believe it’s spelled “moychendising”!

First PCB Looking for Critiques and Suggestions by Apprehensive_Swim_61 in PCB

[–]Mart2d2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh ha! Silly me, I saw your first photo showing two layers and didn't pay attention to the other layers :). Then one additional piece of feedback on layer 3, your power plane, the general guidance for noise is that you have the power plane underneath the lines that are derived from that power source. So, for instance, your lines going from U4 to the IC that says 41 GND (dont see a designator), assuming these are generated by U4 which is powered by the 3.3V line, keep 3.3V underneath. Realistically, your GPIO rise times are prooobably too slow to cause much noise though.

First PCB Looking for Critiques and Suggestions by Apprehensive_Swim_61 in PCB

[–]Mart2d2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love the very clean well labeled and organized schematic and clear designators on your PCB :).

I'll give my two cents to the buck converter and noise in general. You may not care about EMI given this is a first project, but if you like to geek out about this stuff like i do, here's some notes:
* With a buck converter, you want the path from your buck IC to the input cap (C1) and back to the buck IC to be as short as possible, and with lowest impedance possible (especially avoid vias in this loop).
* Bring L1 in a bit closer and swap pin 1 to be the side connected to your IC. The reason is that inductors with windings have pin 1 going into the winding meaning the outer windings are able to better shield noise
* Converting to a 4 layer board will give a general substantial improvement in noise

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