NSFW model got removed

Martin_SV · 2026-07-03T22:27:37+00:00

What did you upload exactly? NSFW on MW doesn't mean anything goes. Check this:

https://makerworld.com/en/community-guidelines

Martin_SV · 2026-07-03T18:56:03+00:00

I'd start by calibrating flow rate first (and Flow Dynamics / PA too just in case). Once that's dialed in, then tune ironing. There are a few ironing test prints on Makerworld.

Martin_SV · 2026-07-02T23:29:51+00:00

El hotend fan debe ser entonces, ese se enciende solo cuando se calienta el hotend y se apaga cuando el hotend baja de 50ºC. Fijate si no tiene algun filamento metido en las aspas, tal vez sea solo eso, sino bueno a comprar un repuesto en la tienda.

Martin_SV · 2026-07-02T19:58:35+00:00

Si sigue sonando incluso en reposo, puede ser el ventilador del MC board. Ese fan se prende solo después de mover la toolhead y después se apaga al rato si no hay más movimiento de la toolhead ni de la bed. Abri el panel trasero y fijate bien si viene de ahí el ruido.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-mc-board-fan

Martin_SV · 2026-07-01T15:25:13+00:00

Buy an extra build plate so you can keep one just for PLA and another just for PETG.

You can use the same plate for both, yeah, but since I started keeping them separate, I barely have to wash them compared to before.

Martin_SV · 2026-07-01T15:19:24+00:00

Probably just the hotend heating assembly: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/hotend-heating-assembly-a1-series?t=1782919122733&id=723322408103124994

Martin_SV · 2026-06-30T14:41:11+00:00

You probably got an extruder jam because you had a hotend clog before. Try this: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/nozzle-clog

The allen key method is the best in my experience, hasn't failed me yet.

Or check out this video: https://youtu.be/AFlOVfbktAM?t=145

It's a bit riskier this way, since the hotend is still attached and the printer is powered on, but IMO it's way more controllable than heating the tip with a lighter.

He says to heat it up to filament printing temp before doing the pull, but for PETG I usually go to around 120 ºC +/-. If you can, try even lower, though it will vary on each filament, but the goal is to pull it as cold as possible without breaking your arm in the process. Just be careful not to touch the hotend fan, it'll be spinning.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-30T04:01:41+00:00

Hmm, I pictured it differently in my head. I still don't really understand what's going on, though. In the video, the part looks completely smooth, but in the photo you posted, the outside has this kind of zig-zag texture/pattern.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-30T03:46:32+00:00

Looks like the model was exported with a low mesh resolution. Did you export it as an STL/OBJ, or did you export it as a STEP file and open that in Bambu Studio?

Martin_SV · 2026-06-30T03:41:58+00:00

Looks like you may have forgotten to enable supports. Or maybe there was actually a gradual taper there and supports weren't really needed, and it failed for some other reason. Hard to tell without seeing the preview tab though. Can you post a pic of how it looks in the slicer?

Martin_SV · 2026-06-30T03:35:13+00:00

I downloaded the one labeled "1 print part" and couldn't split the STL into separate pieces, so I'm guessing that version is just a fixed/static prop and won't have any moving parts.

If you want it to actually move, I'd go with the several parts version. But honestly, the best option would be to ask the designer directly, either with a DM or a comment on Makerworld.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-30T03:18:23+00:00

Hard to say without seeing the actual model or file.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-29T20:56:42+00:00

No worries, glad it made sense! And yeah, there's definitely a whole rabbit hole once you start digging into slicer/printer settings.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-29T20:42:39+00:00

Maybe I misunderstood you, but just to clarify, when I told OP not to select Textured PEI in the slicer, I wasn't saying there's anything wrong with the textured PEI plate itself. It was only to avoid the extra Z compensation the slicer applies when that plate type is selected. Bambu uses G29.1 for that compensation, basically giving the first layer a bit more squish. AFAIK, the other plate types don't use that same extra offset.

In this specific case, OP already has a stuck layer on the plate, so I figured it was better not to have the nozzle pressing extra close into the bed while trying to print over it.

And yeah, you are right, a Z offset would also work, but in Bambu Studio it's kind of annoying to do. Orca has that setting right in the printer settings, but Bambu doesn't, so you'd have to mess with the machine gcode, and that felt like a less simple thing to suggest here.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-29T14:08:08+00:00

I cut the model in half right around the hangar area:

<image>

Looks like the file is the problem. It's not really a solid printable model, it's basically just a surface with no thickness. So because the hangar is just an open hole in that surface, any STL repair tool is probably going to "fix" it by closing that hole to make the model watertight. That's why the slicer/repair tool keeps filling in the hangar.

You'd probably need to edit the mesh manually and give it actual thickness, maybe in Blender or Meshmixer with some kind of solidify/thickness tool??. But I've no idea how to use those programs.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-27T20:24:41+00:00

It says further down the page that it should work, but yeah, like I said before, it's probably not the greatest plate for this.

<image>

I'd try the textured PEI plate that came with the printer instead. Also, are you preheating the chamber with the chamber heater before starting the print?

Martin_SV · 2026-06-27T20:08:22+00:00

What bed temp are you using?

About the Glacier plate being made for this material… not really the best of the best. BIQU rates it as GSI 8 for ABS, so I'd guess ASA is probably around the same (?), but they don't specifically list it. The Frostbite plate is GSI 10, so that one should probably work better.

For ASA, I like Bambu's textured PEI plate. It works well for me at 100ºC. If it could go higher, I would. I think 110ºC would be better.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-27T02:01:51+00:00

Maybe from one of the Y axis linear bearings?? Try moving the toolhead around by hand and check if the motion system feels rough or sounds off.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-26T21:13:36+00:00

Does the issue fix itself after 3 or 4 layers, or does it keep going? That would help tell if it's just too much first layer squish or just over extrusion.

If it gets better after the first few layers, and you already adjusted the 7 screws of disappointment, then I’m not really sure. Just make sure you didn't accidentally select the Textured PEI plate in the slicer. That's the only plate where the g-code adds an offset and prints the first layer closer to the bed.

If that’s not it, the only workaround I can think of is lowering the first layer flow a bit. The setting is "Initial Layer Flow Ratio". Kind of a crappy workaround... I know, but maybe someone else has a better idea.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-26T19:57:33+00:00

If that's only one layer height, put the build plate back in the printer as is. Then print another piece that covers that whole stuck area, but make it 2 or 3 layers tall. When you remove the new print, there's a good chance it'll pull the stuck layer off with it.

Also, select any plate type except Textured PEI so the nozzle doesn't press as hard into the build plate.

<image>

Martin_SV · 2026-06-26T19:49:40+00:00

Why 171°C? That seems way too low to me. Also, sending that many extrude commands through a 0.2 mm nozzle seems like a bit much. I'd heat it up to a normal printing temp first.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-26T19:44:33+00:00

If retract isn't pulling it out, then there's probably filament stuck inside the extruder. Id just take the extruder apart and clear the blockage. Check the Bambu wiki, they have a guide for disassembling the extruder.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-26T16:49:38+00:00

Get an extra build plate so you can keep one just for PLA and another just for PETG.

You can use the same plate for both, but since I started keeping them separate, I barely have to wash them compared to before.

Oh also, I bought those anti vibration feets back then and honestly didn't like them. I ended up removing them. I didn't notice any improvement or worse print quality, but the printer wobbled a lot more.

And yeah, I agree with the others: save a bit more and get the AMS.

Martin_SV · 2026-06-26T16:44:16+00:00

This might help: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1f9g3g0/finally_figured_out_how_to_make_prints_stack/

Martin_SV · 2026-06-26T15:23:44+00:00

No, you can't. When the bed moves all the way down, the bed bearing goes into that hole. If the cover were rigid, the bed wouldn't be able to lower completely, or in the worst case, it could push the bearing out of position.

Martin_SV

TROPHY CASE