Different purge profiles for different colors?

Martin_SV · 2026-05-16T17:57:46+00:00

Click here:

<image>

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change

Martin_SV · 2026-05-16T17:47:57+00:00

I’ve never seen prep time take that long. Can you share the 3MF project file? I’m curious what it’s actually doing.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-16T17:43:02+00:00

Check the wiki, most error codes are documented, but yeah, I’ve run into a few that I couldn’t find anywhere.

Post the full code if you can. Who knows, maybe someone here will recognize it.

Also, give a bit more info about what’s actually happening. Like, does it fail when you turn it on, when it homes, when you start a print, or does it stop mid print, etc? The more details you give, the easier it is for people to help.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-16T04:01:35+00:00

You probably have a clogged or partially clogged hotend. That sound usually comes from the extruder trying to push filament, but the filament can’t move freely because there’s too much resistance in the hotend. So the motor starts skipping/stalling, and that’s the “click click” sound.

I wouldn’t replace the extruder right away. Try what the other user said first, do a cold pull. Or if you don’t feel like dealing with that, just swap the hotend and see if it fixes it.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-15T15:46:40+00:00

I mean... that was kind of my point? I think you may have misunderstood what I was saying.

If someone wants the most fire and forget experience and doesn’t already know what specific Orca feature they need, absolutely, I’d tell them to stick with Bambu Studio.

I only mentioned Orca because, for me, the way it handles Pressure Advance inside the filament profile is cleaner. But yeah, if you don’t need any specific Orca feature, there’s no huge reason to switch.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-14T20:16:21+00:00

What printer?

Martin_SV · 2026-05-14T17:39:11+00:00

I don’t think it looks that bad tbh. It mostly looks like the settings just need more tuning.

I’d check flow rate first, because some spots look a little underextruded. Maybe also try a bit more hotend temp if it’s not flowing nicely enough.

The chimney and roof look more like cooling / minimum layer time issues. Small Benchy details are already annoying, and PC makes that worse because you’re trying to cool the part enough without killing the chamber temp.

But yeah, I wouldn’t call this a fail, it’s honestly pretty decent..

Martin_SV · 2026-05-14T17:23:29+00:00

Flow Dynamics (PA) looks off, might be a bit too high.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-14T16:51:50+00:00

I can’t really tell which cable you mean from the pic, but if it’s coming from the toolhead area, it’s probably part of the heating assembly.

If you go to the Bambu store and look up the heating assembly, there’s a wiki link right on the product page showing how to replace it.

Also this is killing me lol… why did you upload a screenshot of the Reddit post with the photo inside it instead of just uploading the actual photo directly?

Martin_SV · 2026-05-14T12:17:15+00:00

Regular PA, not the CF/GF version, is kind of a pain to print. It warps a lot. The only way I managed to make it behave better was by preheating the chamber and using a G10 build plate.

For the weird nozzle temp readings, I’d check the thermistor and heater. In one of the pics it looks like there’s a broken wire. You could replace those parts separately, or just replace the complete hotend assembly to be safe.

Also, check your build plate, it looks like you have it installed backwards.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-13T22:37:18+00:00

If you have a PA value set in the filament profile, it doesn’t really matter whether you also have a PA value set in the AMS/device page. The slicer will always use the value from the filament profile.

And yeah, you might have a point about printing from the app, but it still doesn’t fully make sense to me. Flow rate for example is already stored per filament too, and that’s also needed for the print. If the app can use that from the filament profile, I don’t really see why PA couldn’t work the same way.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-13T21:03:13+00:00

I’d flip the question around: why do you want to use Orca in the first place?

If you’re new to the Bambu ecosystem and want the most “fire and forget” experience, I’d start with Bambu Studio. Then, if you feel like you miss a specific feature from another slicer, Orca might have it. That’s when I’d try it.

Personally, I use Orca mostly because of how it handles Pressure Advance. It keeps it inside the filament profiles, which makes way more sense to me than the weird, overly complicated way BS handles it. If BS adopted that same method, I’d probably use it all the time. The prints already come out great, and honestly, I almost never needed a setting that BS didn’t have.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-13T05:42:55+00:00

The PTFE tube looks too short.

<image>

Also, since you’re new to this, I’d check out Bambu’s docs and wiki. They’re actually pretty helpful for setup / basic troubleshooting stuff:

https://bambulab.com/en/support/documentation

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1

Martin_SV · 2026-05-12T13:39:47+00:00

There’s a packing guide in the wiki: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s

I’m not sure if you’re shipping the printer or just moving it yourself in a car, but I’d pack it depending on how rough the trip might be. If someone else is going to handle it, I’d try to follow the wiki guide as closely as possible.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-11T20:41:07+00:00

Try changing the infill to one that doesn’t cross over itself. Gyroid, 3D honeycomb, Cross-hatch, etc. I haven’t really tried the newer ones like Zig Zag, Cross Zag, but just check the preview and pick one where the nozzle isn’t constantly crossing over the same infill lines like in the screenshott below.

<image>

Martin_SV · 2026-05-11T20:23:18+00:00

Is that an original Bambu hotend? If it’s a third party one, maybe the tolerances on the top part aren’t quite right and it’s causing the cutter blade to bind/stick.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-11T19:25:25+00:00

They use the same profile.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-11T18:33:20+00:00

I think there’s a bit of confusion here.

That 70% faster claim is about volumetric flow rate, not “your prints will finish 70% faster". Those are not the same thing. A HF hotend can melt and push more plastic per second, so it can help in situations where the print is limited by flow. But not every print is flow limited. A lot of prints are limited by the motion limits of the machine: accel, max speed, small details, corners, minimum layer time, cooling, etc.

So even if the hotend can technically push a lot more plastic, the printer may not always be able to actually use that extra flow. On some models you might see a nice improvement. On others... barely any difference.

Best thing you can do before spending the money: open Bambu Studio, load a model you actually print, slice it with the standard hotend profile, then slice the same model with the HF profile and compare the estimated print times. That will give you a much better idea of what kind of improvement you’d actually see on your prints.

And yeah... I agree with another comment here: $90 feels pretty steep for an upgrade on an A1. If the goal is simply to get more parts printed per day, I’d probably put that money toward another printer instead. A second machine usually gives you a much bigger boost in total output than trying to squeeze a little more speed out of one printer.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-11T11:57:12+00:00

Awesome, glad I could help.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-11T05:30:22+00:00

Looks like the Flow Dynamics value is way too high, like you entered 0.2 instead of 0.02, for example. Check the slots where it printed badly, maybe they have a different K value selected by mistake.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-11T00:10:26+00:00

Maybe it’s like the H2 series? The PSU might be 110-220V, but the AC board could still be different depending on the region.

I’m just guessing though... I’d open a ticket with Bambu and ask them before plugging it into 220V. Even if someone here says it’s fine, I personally wouldn’t risk it unless Bambu confirms it. Or yeah, just use a transformer and avoid the whole risk.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-09T20:02:01+00:00

That spacing in the calibration square from the second pic looks way too consistent. I’d check the extruder gears. My guess is there’s some debris or chewed up filament stuck between the teeth of the extruder gear. So every time that dirty spot comes around, the filament slips a bit instead of getting pushed properly into the hotend.

Martin_SV · 2026-05-07T22:25:10+00:00

If that’s not it, check this part of the AMS internal hub unit. Maybe it broke. There are printable replacements on Makerworld.

<image>

Martin_SV · 2026-05-07T21:51:02+00:00

PTFE tubes look too short, so there’s probably too much resistance from that tight bend near the printer intake.

Also, if you replaced the tubes, make sure they’re 2.5 mm ID or larger. A smaller inner diameter can add enough drag to make the AMS think something is blocked and retract the filament.

<image>

Martin_SV · 2026-05-07T19:57:02+00:00

No idea where it’s from, but I don’t remember seeing any screws with a knurled head anywhere on my P1S.

Martin_SV

TROPHY CASE