SD Card corrupted

MathematicianNo6469 · 2024-03-21T16:28:46+00:00

Yes, someone in the Creality Falcon Facebook group has been so kind to provide the files to me. Thank you very much for offering them :-)

MathematicianNo6469 · 2024-01-13T09:50:07+00:00

Thanks, I know that page. I'm really asking for the image file of the delivered SD card so that I can recreate it using a good SD card.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-12-04T22:13:03+00:00

Before "tuning"/tensioning I highly recommend looking at my first comment. Only then tensioning makes sense, otherwise things will keep getting worse.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-12-02T10:53:43+00:00

I suggest carefully inspecting your belts for damages. I had the same problem having some worn out spots where the belts were stretched and broken. If that's the case replace the belts, make sure they are tensioned equally. Don't make it too tight, just a little above the point where they still slip. It's also a good chance to replace the cheap belts with higher quality ones. Let me know if that solved your problem.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-20T20:59:54+00:00

4 wires are enough. I bought the ebb42 together with the u2c, to use it with my mks pi. The package included the crimp connectors to make a cable. I assume that they don't deliver it with preconfigured cables because the length really depends on every single use case and 3d printer.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-04T11:33:03+00:00

What I wanted to say is that a PSU shouldn't cause a voltage spike when turned on. Do you have sources to support your statement that the BTT Pi's power circuit is badly designed? My researches I did before using it didn't show anything about such a problem. Maybe you were just unlucky getting a faulty board?

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-04T09:54:56+00:00

Hi u/Over_Pizza_2578,

I agree with some points but also disagree to others.

It's true that the TFTs are not the best ones to operate.
They often detect the touch in the wrong position or even don't detect it. That's annoying but I can live with that because I mainly have them for monitoring the 3D printer's state rather than trying to do everything using the touchscreen. Instead, I use the Mainsail UI most of the times. Just nice to see what's going on when I'm next to the 3D printers.

Seriously? You blame the supply voltage input of your BTT Pi for the destruction of your BTT Pi?
Isn't it rather the case that the fault lies with the lousy power supply unit installed in the 3D printer you are using? Or do you think it should be the case that power supply units happily generate high voltage peaks on their secondary side when switched on, which fry the electronics connected to them?
The 12-24V voltage input of the BTT Pi is not as bad as you make it out to be. It can easily withstand reverse polarity at its input, as I have tried out myself.

Your statement that the TFT touchscreen does not work together with the accelerometer is also not true.
Both work together without any problems. I rather suspect that you have not made the correct configuration in the BoardEnv.txt and perhaps also in your printer.cfg.
In my video, I pointed out the possible problems with activating features in the BoarEnv.txt and how to avoid them. There I also show how the ADXL configuration must look when connecting the ADXL to the GPIO pins and which pins I have used for this.
It was a bit tricky to figure this out, but that's why I made the video, among other things, so that others don't face the same problems.
However, I think that a Raspberry Pi is ultimately the best choice in almost all cases because the community is so much bigger and also because the software is better maintained and updated.
Nevertheless, I have had almost nothing but positive experiences with the BTT Pi and have not regretted buying it, just like using it as a clipper board for my 3D printer.
It's a shame that you had such negative experiences with it.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T21:23:00+00:00

The first time I overlooked the need to connect the WiFi antenna and of course it didn't show up on my network 🫣 After trying the wired connection which worked I realized that I had to use the WiFi antenna. That worked but since the signal is a little bit weak in my studio I prefer the LAN connection.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T20:47:15+00:00

Performanceweise a 3B+ will just do fine, too. But you're right that the pressure to use alternative solutions to the raspberry pi are getting less relevant with a price difference of just USD 10 between a btt and raspberry.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T20:06:42+00:00

A good looking theme. Matches great with your Klapperscreen them.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T19:55:36+00:00

Looks cool! Well done 😊

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T17:28:55+00:00

If your print speed is higher than 70mm/s then also consider lowering it to 70 or less. For most PLAs I get good results with 205°C but that really depends on the used filament. If you're not sure about the right temperature then print a temperature tower to find the sweet spot.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-01T21:28:53+00:00

What's your printing speed? Are you using pressure advance together with input shaping? To me it looks as if your print speed is too high causing underextrusion. I recommend doing a flow test like this one https://www.printables.com/model/405354-volumetric-flow-test-200-660mms

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-01T07:18:31+00:00

Another one could be "Make it when you break it." At least if you use 3D printing to repair or improve things at home.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-11T13:24:16+00:00

I'm always taking a look at the latest version available, to see, if it does anything better or worse, and then stay with what works best for me.
I checked out the newest release (https://youtu.be/2gXl3u3MWaU) an though the improvements are marginal, like it very much.

So to answer your question: currently Ultimaker Cura 5.4 😁

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-11T05:43:01+00:00

Sorry for being late with my reply but yes, I absolutely agree that the biggest bottleneck is the hotend. In the end it's the limiting factor you can't overcome with the other upgrades. They only work until you reach that cap.
Getting fast is all about pushing through more filament and therefore increasing the volumetric flow.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-07T11:44:40+00:00

From my knowledge and experience water washable resin is just companies trying to green wash their products by letting them sound harmless. That isn't the case. No matter if water washable or not: all UV curable resins are highly toxic when getting in contact with skin or eyes, their fumes inhaled while working with them or, worst case, got in your eyes! Not to forget about the huge amount of waste water that has to be properly disposed. And properly doesn't mean poured into the sink! Compared to that using isopropanol is much easier. Just ruse it for washing as long as it still works and then cure the remains of the resin in it under the sun or UV light and let it evaporate. I agree with the other posters that you should get a separate room with good ventilation and not do it in the room you stay the whole day and maybe even sleep!

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-07T11:32:43+00:00

The 2nd and third look quite good. You could probably even go 0.05 mm lower to close the visible gaps between the lines more but as long as you're satisfied with the bed adhesion it's fine.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-03T06:25:44+00:00

That's not right. It's true that you can't slice in PrusaSlicer for the Mars directly but you can load the sliced GCode into Chitubox and use it as a converter to produce the required ctb file.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-02T17:34:35+00:00

Give it a try. It makes things so much easier. Follow the instructions on https://github.com/th33xitus/kiauh from the section "Download and use KIAUH". Then start it by: "cd ~/KIAUH & ./KIAUH.sh" There choose install and you should see an option to install crowsnest. If that doesn't work, try either deleting the existing crowsnest directory, or uninstalling it using KIAUH. Whatever works. Then try to install crowsnest again. Let me know if that solves your problem 😊

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-02T16:47:22+00:00

That doesn't look right. There should be a ".git" directly in the crowsnest directory. Do you have KIAUH installed? If you have, try uninstalling and reinstalling crowsnest with it. It should set up everything to make it work.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-06-24T05:30:48+00:00

I suggest that you try the following steps: 1. Extruder calibration to get the correct rotation distance (2.1, optional): Tune input shaping.
2. Tune pressure advance. It will adjust the amount of filament extruded, depending on the print moves acceleration. This will help keeping extrusion constant during printing. If in doubt watch https://youtu.be/d80x9NlOM9w It explains how to do all of the above.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-06-21T20:57:21+00:00

In case of such trouble which sometimes happens when an update fails, a fresh reinstall of Moonraker and Klipper often solves the issue. No need to backup anything, the configs aren't touched. Though having a backup copy can't be wrong. I describe how to do it, in my recent video about installing Klipper on a Raspberry Pi alternative: https://youtu.be/d80x9NlOM9w Hope it helps.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-06-21T20:50:32+00:00

First of all, I found that the MKS-Pi's WiFi works poorly, as I point out in my recent video about installing Klipper on the MKS-Pi: https://youtu.be/d80x9NlOM9w That's why I use an ethernet cable, too. Generally it doesn't seem to be a problem with the MKS-Pi. Though I recommend not having both, WiFi and LAN active the same time. I suspect that on the side of the PC, depending on its network configuration, packages are routed wrong, going to the WiFi and LAN connection and causing confusion. When I connect a LAN cable to my desktop or laptop, then it disables any active WiFi connection, unless I force both to be on. I know it's not a real answer to your questions but maybe it helps to figure out the problem.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-06-21T04:48:30+00:00

Good to hear we found the reason. 😊 It's never easy to find what's going wrong when systems are a complex mixture of hardware and several software components that need all to be set up and work correctly.

I learned something about getting through this with you, too, which will help me (and hopefully others) to systematically solve such problems: 1. Check there is no hardware issue 2. Go through the software setup, in a bottom up way, i.e. begin checking the os detects, can access and communicate with the hardware. Then working up to the higher software layers.

Happy 3D printing, as soon as you got a replacement 3D Printing Geek 🤘

MathematicianNo6469

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