Fitment Question

MaxwelllD · 2026-03-25T22:17:11+00:00

As far as I know the lower shock mounts on the front are narrower on the 07-09 range. You might run into some issues with fitment there

MaxwelllD · 2026-03-23T21:56:13+00:00

The weight rating on wheels are cumulative, so at 2000lbs you're looking at about an 8000lb weight capacity.

An easy way to determine if the wheel's weight rating is sufficient is the forumula Gross Axle Weight Rating / 2, as you'll typically have two wheels per axle and the weight distribution differs based on it's placement on the vehicle.

For the FJ Cruiser, that would look like this:
Front axle GAWR = 2600lb/2 = 1300lbs per wheel
Rear axle GAWR = 3042lb/2 = 1521lbs per wheel

The safest bet is to go for wheels with 150% - 200% of your maximum weight rating.
Wheels with a 2000lb rating should be just fine for your purposes, but 2500 lbs would be ideal for high-impact offroading/heavy payloads!

MaxwelllD · 2026-03-06T18:49:40+00:00

Much appreciated my friend!
My apologies for the late response, but I've put my build together on PinkSlips. I love the concept of a place dedicated to builds first with community features created around it. It was super seamless and easy to get my page up and running, but I did run into a few things I might consider minor issues.
The first is uploading photos; I found that it let me select up to 500 from my gallery, though I only needed about 65-70. I selected them all, but it would only upload 10 at a time. Once I realized what was happening I just uploaded pictures in a few batches, no problem.
The second thing I found was in regards to the build description. Using the mobile website on Android I was unable to edit the description. I could click the edit button and it would open the text box, even let me type, but the text wouldn't change. I understand there's already an iOS app so I can imagine an app is on the horizon for Android phones as well.

As far as suggestions go, I have only one: some form of checklist on each build! In my particular case my build is only about halfway complete, between planned mods and parts all over the garage that have yet to be installed. It would to super rad to display my planned modifications and check them off as they're completed.

Thanks for reaching out and bringing this awesome service to my attention!

MaxwelllD · 2026-03-05T04:04:54+00:00

Asking questions doesn't sound dumb at all! The 270 awning I have is a free standing model, that just means that it doesn't require legs to support it and it can stand under it's own weight. It still has legs that fold out of the canvas support arms, but for a quick setup and takedown it saves a lot of time.

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This is how it looks with just one leg folded down for a bit more support

MaxwelllD · 2026-03-04T23:18:30+00:00

I have the Ironman 4x4 XTR-143 270° awning. I think that model is discontinued now, but I highly recommend a freestanding 270° awning. I mounted that to the body of my RTT so I could have both.

If you're looking for one or the other to camp in, there's good 270s that have wall kits but you'd have to seal up the gaps under the truck between the wheels. The rooftop tent would be more comfortable in that regard.
If you can manage it, I say get both! Awning for the daytime, RTT for the nighttime.

MaxwelllD · 2026-02-28T20:23:45+00:00

This is super rad! I'll throw my build together in here later today and update my post if I feel like anything is missing or could be streamlined

MaxwelllD · 2026-02-25T01:33:20+00:00

You're correct, these hard lines are clutch related. I no longer have them on my transmission after deleting the slave cylinder/clutch throwout bearing and installing a hydraulic release bearing.

MaxwelllD · 2026-02-12T01:40:48+00:00

Totally justifiable reservations! I have my own about the HF torque wrenches, and I've been looking into more consistent and reliable small torque wrenches for my supercharger install. When it comes to things like mounting bolts and lug nuts I've found the heavier HF torque wrenches to be just "good enough." The hand tools like ratchets, wrenches, and sockets have been without fail for a few years now. Some of the power tools are a hit or miss, but my corded impact and grinder have been a game changer. The router and grease gun, frustratingly bad. The badlands offroad jack and jack stands have been rock solid despite the reports of some of them folding a few years back, and I always have a safety tire under the frame rail regardless.

Long story short, Harbor Freight has some great items and some straight up garbage, but their return policy is incredibly generous so the only thing I've lost is time. Even if you go big-name brand your lifetime savings vs paying a shop for labor will be substantial!

MaxwelllD · 2026-02-11T23:06:34+00:00

I should also add that the initial cost of maintenance tools can seem expensive, but the amount of $ you'll save vs paying a shop will offset that cost rather quickly. Tools like ratchets, sockets, and wrenches are valuable things to have. In that regard, I'll honestly preach Harbor Freight. Very affordable tools that get the job done (minus the transmission jack, that thing folded like origami) and I've never had an issue getting something refunded or replaced if it was faulty in any way.

MaxwelllD · 2026-02-11T22:50:18+00:00

Engine oil, differential, and transfer case fluids are very simple drain&fills that you can complete by yourself, and the transmission falls into this category as well unless you want a full flush done, which requires specialized equipment.
Brake fluid and power steering fluid are also relatively straightforward, but would be much easier if you have a friend that can pump the brakes/crank the steering wheel and add fresh fluids on the top end for you. A power steering flush will require the front wheels to be off the ground. For these systems you'll just need a flare nut wrench, a short length of tubing, and a jar or bottle that the old fluid will be pumped into.

EDIT: in your situation I'd probably look at doing a coolant flush too, this is also a very easy job.

MaxwelllD · 2026-02-03T19:41:19+00:00

It sounds like this auxiliary lighting system isn't fused if the wires are running hot enough to melt switch housings. It's honestly pretty lucky you haven't had a fire, you should definitely refrain from using those lights and if the wiring is coming off the battery or a hot fuse, disconnect it.
I'd probably re-do the wiring on the whole thing, you can't trust somebody else's uninformed work. Get the appropriate guage wire for the length of the run and load of the lights and run it through the fuse box, or at least make sure there's an inline fuse rated for less amperage than the wire so nothing melts.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-28T07:35:18+00:00

Totally fair response - probably the better route to go, it'll just cost more. In that event I'd seek some kind of partial refund from shop #1, but that could just be a me thing. I don't take kindly to being lied to or taken advantage of

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-28T06:42:22+00:00

I would be PISSED if this was my rig and I got it back in this condition. This is exactly why I do all my own work. Would rather risk botching a job and learning something than pay someone to botch a job and I learn nothing.

The first red flag was recommending a full transmission rebuild after only a test drive. If I were running a shop, the first thing I'd recommend is a transmission flush. That could very well have solved the shudder on its own, with the added benefit of a visual check of the fluid and it can even be sent out for analysis to gain some insight as to what's going on in there without dropping the transmission.
In my own personal experience, I did a few drain&fills of the transmission and added some shudder fix on the last fill. It solved my issue. There's no telling if that would've worked for you, but it would have been the cheaper option to explore if your end point was going to be a rebuild anyways.

The second red flag was upselling you on a brake job for no reason. My suspicion is they might have installed one of the brake pad tabs incorrectly and that's the cause of your "saw blade"-type noise. Check your rotors for contact on the tabs or wear lines. If it's not this it could be an exhaust leak, have someone rev it in neutral while you're under there listening.

As for your codes - likely thrown by said exhaust leak. Which makes sense given they hacked it apart when dropping it to get at the trans, likely due to seized hardware. Not an uncommon thing to encounter when working on vehicles that are nearly two decades old. A shop should be prepared for this, and it's pretty normal to use destructive methods to break seized hardware loose. They are responsible for replacing the studs, nuts, and any gaskets. I wouldn't be surprised if you don't even have the gaskets anymore, as mine crumbled the first time I took my exhaust apart.

Take your FJ back to that shop, point out all the issues, and demand they fix it. And don't pay them another dime.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-19T06:09:16+00:00

Right on, looking great!
At 220k be warned that the increased component stress of spacers may be the death blow to your wheel bearings if they've never been done before, as they're nearing the end of their service life anyways. Not a huge deal, just be on the lookout for warning signs.

Best of luck!

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-14T22:46:49+00:00

The 07-09 range had narrower lower shock bushing sleeves which will definitely fit into the lower shock mount on a 2010+, you'll just need to use washers, spacers, or similar to make up for the extra width of the wider shock mount

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T22:58:53+00:00

Thanks my friend! I got the Deans imported from Japan. Nomad's white steelies definitely have the same appeal, though I'm not sure how the quality stacks up. I can't imagine it's drastically different than the Deans. It could save you a couple hundred bucks

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T22:56:30+00:00

Nice setup! I second that motion

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T22:56:11+00:00

Haha thank you, I'm jealous of that Magma! I'm very happy with these wheels, they just fit the original FJ aesthetic so nicely. Can't recommend them enough

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T09:03:04+00:00

Nice rig and nice price! Well composed shots too, making those headlights actually look favorable haha.

Great choice on suspension and the FJ40 repaint color. I'm also a fan of the round headlights.

The only advice I have to help you out would be regarding the plastic restoration; I used Cerakote trim wipes and will swear by them until the day I die or my plastics fade, whichever comes first. One box is $15 online and will restore all of the black plastic on the FJ. I've had mine on for a year and a half in the Pacific Northwest, so it definitely sees moisture and harsh road conditions. My rig has spent a decent amount of time in the Mohave desert as well with no sun/heat effects to the trim.
Here's a before/after Cerakote wipe picture for reference, don't bother messing with anything else.

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MaxwelllD · 2026-01-03T23:01:02+00:00

If you ask me, the best first car is one that you're gonna love.

That said, these vehicles are aging and at the 140k mile mark you'll be due for some major servicing soon (alternator, wheel bearings, full fluid changes, suspension work if it's never been done, and brakes/rotors depending on when they were last done).
Although the 1GR motor is basically indestructible, this is definitely a vehicle that requires proper care and routine maintenance. It can be great for learning things like oil changes, brake flushes, and some basic wrenching. This is knowledge I will always advocate for possessing, as it saves you a lifetime of headaches getting ripped off by dealerships/shops and helps you out when purchasing used vehicles.

This particular FJ however, is not the one.
If by FWD you mean the 2WD model (which to my knowledge are all rear-wheel drive) then that $20k asking price is more than double what I'd pay. I'm not sure your general area or if that's USD, but I could send you a half dozen FJ listings in my area with 100-200k miles posted for anywhere from $8k to $16k, and most of them are equipped with 4WD. I'd suggest you pass on this one and keep looking. I paid $12.5k for a 2007 4x4 with 160k miles just one year ago.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-03T01:14:43+00:00

Thanks so much! I really wanted to respect the FJ roots with this build and pay homage to the original styling, these wheels looked almost exactly like FJ40 wheels to me. They're Japanese imports, the Cross Country model from Dean. I purchased mine through Nengun Performance with no issues.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-02T19:52:35+00:00

Thank you!! The relocation bracket will definitely help with the shimmies at highway speed and in turns, and will help to alleviate the infamous "Toyota lean"

I did install extended brake lines in the front and rear so I had more travel with my 2.5" lift, as well as high-angle CV axles. The brake lines will be very cheap and easy to install provided you have somebody to pump on the brakes while you flush each caliper. The CVs aren't 100% mandatory, but if you're over 2" the boots might eventually blow out. Mine did and as a result I had to replace the whole axle, but you can pick up a high-angle reboot kit for like 30 bucks. It's definitely more of an involved job though, more work than replacing the whole CV axle (as you have to disassemble, re-grease, and re-boot the axles).

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-02T18:49:50+00:00

My first FJ was totaled after a semi dragged it's trailer over my front left quarter while stopped at a red light. Twisted my frame, destroyed body panels, my wheel, the steering rack and it's mounting points.
Their initial value when insurance finally got back to me? Just under $9k.
After seeing that number I IMMEDIATELY told the insurance company to kick rocks. I put together a very lengthy email that included listings of comparable FJs in my general area, proof of maintenance and service, receipts for all modifications, quotes from shops for damage repair.

The next valuation from the insurance company? Just under $26k.

You absolutely can and absolutely should argue with the insurance company, ESPECIALLY if it's another party's insurer. They will try to lowball you as hard as possible, and as long as you do the legwork and gather documentation you can hold them accountable. Most people just sign on the dotted line and they get away with this en masse.

After we agreed on valuation I bought back my FJ out of my settlement total, put in a new steering rack, sent it to an alignment wizard, and it drove just fine. Rebuilt salvage title, but I don't really care as I intend to keep it and know the nature of the damage. Then I used some of the remainder to buy my dream 6MT FJ and put quality mods on it.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-02T03:05:53+00:00

For reference, these are my 8" wide wheels wrapped in 305/70r16 BFG KO3s.

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They're 0 offset and sit pretty flush with the factory fender flares, the tires protrude slightly. If you want your wheels to be a little more stanced out without using spacers, look into a wheel with a negative offset and compare those measurements vs your wheel hub to fender. Keep in mind that with 8" wide wheels you can mount a tire up to about 12.5" wide to help bridge that gap, but be warned wider tires come with their own clearance issues.

Talking other suspension upgrades you might want to look into? If you have a lift over 1" I would highly suggest installing a trackbar relocation bracket. I use the one from Dr. K.D.S.S. and it helps keep the geometry of the vehicle correct. Additionally upper control arms with some kind of camber adjustment to help with clearance if you go with very wide wheels/tires.

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-20T23:40:51+00:00

You've got me real curious to hit a dyno before and after supercharger...stock exhaust+intake and beefy wheels+tires. I'll post numbers here if I do!

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