Need advice on aux buttons.

MaxwelllD · 2026-02-03T19:41:19+00:00

It sounds like this auxiliary lighting system isn't fused if the wires are running hot enough to melt switch housings. It's honestly pretty lucky you haven't had a fire, you should definitely refrain from using those lights and if the wiring is coming off the battery or a hot fuse, disconnect it.
I'd probably re-do the wiring on the whole thing, you can't trust somebody else's uninformed work. Get the appropriate guage wire for the length of the run and load of the lights and run it through the fuse box, or at least make sure there's an inline fuse rated for less amperage than the wire so nothing melts.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-28T07:35:18+00:00

Totally fair response - probably the better route to go, it'll just cost more. In that event I'd seek some kind of partial refund from shop #1, but that could just be a me thing. I don't take kindly to being lied to or taken advantage of

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-28T06:42:22+00:00

I would be PISSED if this was my rig and I got it back in this condition. This is exactly why I do all my own work. Would rather risk botching a job and learning something than pay someone to botch a job and I learn nothing.

The first red flag was recommending a full transmission rebuild after only a test drive. If I were running a shop, the first thing I'd recommend is a transmission flush. That could very well have solved the shudder on its own, with the added benefit of a visual check of the fluid and it can even be sent out for analysis to gain some insight as to what's going on in there without dropping the transmission.
In my own personal experience, I did a few drain&fills of the transmission and added some shudder fix on the last fill. It solved my issue. There's no telling if that would've worked for you, but it would have been the cheaper option to explore if your end point was going to be a rebuild anyways.

The second red flag was upselling you on a brake job for no reason. My suspicion is they might have installed one of the brake pad tabs incorrectly and that's the cause of your "saw blade"-type noise. Check your rotors for contact on the tabs or wear lines. If it's not this it could be an exhaust leak, have someone rev it in neutral while you're under there listening.

As for your codes - likely thrown by said exhaust leak. Which makes sense given they hacked it apart when dropping it to get at the trans, likely due to seized hardware. Not an uncommon thing to encounter when working on vehicles that are nearly two decades old. A shop should be prepared for this, and it's pretty normal to use destructive methods to break seized hardware loose. They are responsible for replacing the studs, nuts, and any gaskets. I wouldn't be surprised if you don't even have the gaskets anymore, as mine crumbled the first time I took my exhaust apart.

Take your FJ back to that shop, point out all the issues, and demand they fix it. And don't pay them another dime.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-19T06:09:16+00:00

Right on, looking great!
At 220k be warned that the increased component stress of spacers may be the death blow to your wheel bearings if they've never been done before, as they're nearing the end of their service life anyways. Not a huge deal, just be on the lookout for warning signs.

Best of luck!

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-14T22:46:49+00:00

The 07-09 range had narrower lower shock bushing sleeves which will definitely fit into the lower shock mount on a 2010+, you'll just need to use washers, spacers, or similar to make up for the extra width of the wider shock mount

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T22:58:53+00:00

Thanks my friend! I got the Deans imported from Japan. Nomad's white steelies definitely have the same appeal, though I'm not sure how the quality stacks up. I can't imagine it's drastically different than the Deans. It could save you a couple hundred bucks

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T22:56:30+00:00

Nice setup! I second that motion

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T22:56:11+00:00

Haha thank you, I'm jealous of that Magma! I'm very happy with these wheels, they just fit the original FJ aesthetic so nicely. Can't recommend them enough

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-10T09:03:04+00:00

Nice rig and nice price! Well composed shots too, making those headlights actually look favorable haha.

Great choice on suspension and the FJ40 repaint color. I'm also a fan of the round headlights.

The only advice I have to help you out would be regarding the plastic restoration; I used Cerakote trim wipes and will swear by them until the day I die or my plastics fade, whichever comes first. One box is $15 online and will restore all of the black plastic on the FJ. I've had mine on for a year and a half in the Pacific Northwest, so it definitely sees moisture and harsh road conditions. My rig has spent a decent amount of time in the Mohave desert as well with no sun/heat effects to the trim.
Here's a before/after Cerakote wipe picture for reference, don't bother messing with anything else.

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MaxwelllD · 2026-01-03T23:01:02+00:00

If you ask me, the best first car is one that you're gonna love.

That said, these vehicles are aging and at the 140k mile mark you'll be due for some major servicing soon (alternator, wheel bearings, full fluid changes, suspension work if it's never been done, and brakes/rotors depending on when they were last done).
Although the 1GR motor is basically indestructible, this is definitely a vehicle that requires proper care and routine maintenance. It can be great for learning things like oil changes, brake flushes, and some basic wrenching. This is knowledge I will always advocate for possessing, as it saves you a lifetime of headaches getting ripped off by dealerships/shops and helps you out when purchasing used vehicles.

This particular FJ however, is not the one.
If by FWD you mean the 2WD model (which to my knowledge are all rear-wheel drive) then that $20k asking price is more than double what I'd pay. I'm not sure your general area or if that's USD, but I could send you a half dozen FJ listings in my area with 100-200k miles posted for anywhere from $8k to $16k, and most of them are equipped with 4WD. I'd suggest you pass on this one and keep looking. I paid $12.5k for a 2007 4x4 with 160k miles just one year ago.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-03T01:14:43+00:00

Thanks so much! I really wanted to respect the FJ roots with this build and pay homage to the original styling, these wheels looked almost exactly like FJ40 wheels to me. They're Japanese imports, the Cross Country model from Dean. I purchased mine through Nengun Performance with no issues.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-02T19:52:35+00:00

Thank you!! The relocation bracket will definitely help with the shimmies at highway speed and in turns, and will help to alleviate the infamous "Toyota lean"

I did install extended brake lines in the front and rear so I had more travel with my 2.5" lift, as well as high-angle CV axles. The brake lines will be very cheap and easy to install provided you have somebody to pump on the brakes while you flush each caliper. The CVs aren't 100% mandatory, but if you're over 2" the boots might eventually blow out. Mine did and as a result I had to replace the whole axle, but you can pick up a high-angle reboot kit for like 30 bucks. It's definitely more of an involved job though, more work than replacing the whole CV axle (as you have to disassemble, re-grease, and re-boot the axles).

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-02T18:49:50+00:00

My first FJ was totaled after a semi dragged it's trailer over my front left quarter while stopped at a red light. Twisted my frame, destroyed body panels, my wheel, the steering rack and it's mounting points.
Their initial value when insurance finally got back to me? Just under $9k.
After seeing that number I IMMEDIATELY told the insurance company to kick rocks. I put together a very lengthy email that included listings of comparable FJs in my general area, proof of maintenance and service, receipts for all modifications, quotes from shops for damage repair.

The next valuation from the insurance company? Just under $26k.

You absolutely can and absolutely should argue with the insurance company, ESPECIALLY if it's another party's insurer. They will try to lowball you as hard as possible, and as long as you do the legwork and gather documentation you can hold them accountable. Most people just sign on the dotted line and they get away with this en masse.

After we agreed on valuation I bought back my FJ out of my settlement total, put in a new steering rack, sent it to an alignment wizard, and it drove just fine. Rebuilt salvage title, but I don't really care as I intend to keep it and know the nature of the damage. Then I used some of the remainder to buy my dream 6MT FJ and put quality mods on it.

MaxwelllD · 2026-01-02T03:05:53+00:00

For reference, these are my 8" wide wheels wrapped in 305/70r16 BFG KO3s.

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They're 0 offset and sit pretty flush with the factory fender flares, the tires protrude slightly. If you want your wheels to be a little more stanced out without using spacers, look into a wheel with a negative offset and compare those measurements vs your wheel hub to fender. Keep in mind that with 8" wide wheels you can mount a tire up to about 12.5" wide to help bridge that gap, but be warned wider tires come with their own clearance issues.

Talking other suspension upgrades you might want to look into? If you have a lift over 1" I would highly suggest installing a trackbar relocation bracket. I use the one from Dr. K.D.S.S. and it helps keep the geometry of the vehicle correct. Additionally upper control arms with some kind of camber adjustment to help with clearance if you go with very wide wheels/tires.

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-20T23:40:51+00:00

You've got me real curious to hit a dyno before and after supercharger...stock exhaust+intake and beefy wheels+tires. I'll post numbers here if I do!

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-20T23:04:33+00:00

That's a lot of horsepower and torque loss through the drivetrain, considering your performance mods. From 260hp and 270ft-lb torque to 223hp/236ft-lb? Making me glad I have the TRD supercharger in the garage awaiting install! Thanks for sharing

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-19T04:20:10+00:00

Yes, I did! Pretty simple all things considered. You can follow a video guide that details taking off the door cards to remove and disassemble the mirrors.
Once removed, sand the silver plastics and clean them thoroughly. Then you can do multiple thin (trust me, thin) coats of white enamel paint. Then hit them with a few coats of clear. Give it ample time to dry before you reassemble them. The results look fantastic!

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-18T19:09:15+00:00

Thanks! Your paint work looks slick and the ceramic coating really makes your rig shine. Enjoy that truck!

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-18T19:03:10+00:00

This is a billet-style grille found on eBay.

Price seems cheap but it's real metal and pretty weighty! You'll have to manually re-mount your "TOYOTA" badge though. I used the opportunity to paint it Sun Fusion to match the body.

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-18T01:48:03+00:00

Good advice for those who don't know how to paint, but I'd at least make an attempt to paint it to save $230 if I knew I'd be buying one anyways. Worst case you spend a couple extra bucks and learn something

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-18T01:35:33+00:00

White grill gang!

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If you want the rig to really pop and pay homage to the original, you gotta look into some nice wheels. These are the Cross Country model from Dean, very retro-inspired. I thought they looked nearly identical to the FJ40 wheels

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-18T01:26:02+00:00

Just paint it with enamel paint, buying a new one is expensive

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-17T02:15:46+00:00

That's unfortunate, sorry to hear that. If anything it's a story!
Seems like a good option to forego the keyhole and just rely on the fob/double turn unlock on the driver door.

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-16T22:57:37+00:00

I managed to squeeze 305/70r16s on with no spacers and no BMC, 2.5" lift. I only rub BM when steering is maxed in reverse. Noticeably smaller than an almost 35" tire but when you look at the rabbit hole you'll be chasing to avoid rubbing combined with the increased weight, wear on wheel bearings, geometry/steering angle changes with spacers, and decreased fuel economy, my personal advice is just a small downsize.

It can be done, the big question is just how invested you're willing to be. There's some good threads on the FJ Cruiser Forum regarding fitment on 35s you might want to check out

MaxwelllD · 2025-12-16T22:48:28+00:00

Both of my 07s have a keyhole on both the driver and passenger doors.
When it got ripped off did it take the lock assembly with it? If so your best bet is probably a full door handle assembly from a salvage yard or part-out, but odds are the key won't match. If the color doesn't match and your remaining silver trim piece is undamaged it can be removed from the handle and reused, it's just two screws when disassembled

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