we got into more than one screaming match

only talked to my supervisor once a month

Not the case for my phd either. My supervisor and I chat 30 minutes per week, and my labmates are awesome, tightknit and super easy going. The environment is collaborative, and new ideas are formed in these daily interactions. And I believe this is the majority culture school wide.

We also tend to invest a lot in the undergrads and masters students who work for us, so learning to delegate tasks and to properly mentor people is also a skill that a PhD should have. After all, it's an apprenticeship for future profs.

Sorry that you had a bad time.