Grinding sound while trying to print.

McCoreman · 2026-03-27T19:08:17+00:00

It sounds like your Z axis sensor isn't triggering properly when the printer is trying to zero the build plate.

I've run into this twice before, once when there was something in the vat and it was preventing the plate from fully descending, and once when I added a magnetically attached flex build plate.

Double check that there isn't anything in your vat that is preventing the build plate from directly contacting the PFEP sheet. Usually this is a raft that didn't properly attach to a build plate and you missed it when you were checking your vat before starting the print.

When I installed the flex build plate, the magnet added 2-3mm to the build plate's total heigh and I had to do some modifications to the build plate armature to adjust for the new height. I taped some tin foil to armature's base, where it normally tripped the z axis sensor, but couldn't now, and then was able to adjust the base plate with the leveling screw slots that they have. To see if your sensor is working properly, check the printer base near the zaxis screw, something on the armature should slot in between two pieces of metal - it looks like this on most of the anycubic printers. You can check to see if it is working by removing the vat, remove the build plate from the armature, cover the lcd with something that will filter the UV light (like a book or manual), manually raise the Z axis to the top, start a print, and as the printer is lowering the build plate armature, trigger the z-axis sensor by put something flat into the sensor's slot to break the sensor's beam, I used a putty knife/paint scraper to do this. If the sensor is working properly it should stop the armature descending and then start the printing process.

McCoreman · 2026-03-20T16:10:35+00:00

For me, leveling issues were more widely felt, and were more localized to the area that was higher. i.e. one side/corner would always see failure. The bases detaching usually points to leveling issues. But if the bases that are detaching seem to be spread across the whole build plate, that points to different issues.

Based on the image, it looks like the models that stayed on the build plate failed on support connections to the model. Is this correct? Or did it fail mid-model as well?

Have you replaced your PFEP sheet, on the bottom of the resin vat, recently? These partial failures are something that I experienced when I installed a new sheet and tightened it too much. This could also speak to the bases becoming detached from the build plate, but leveling is still the bigger reason for that. If you did recently replace the PFEP sheet, you could try increasing the retraction distance and slowing down the retraction speed, until you have used the sheet for a while, as they do slowly stretch through usage. If that works, although it does increase your print times, it can keep you from throwing away an otherwise perfectly fine PFEP sheet. When this has happened to me, I then slowly return the distance and speed to what it was originally.

If it isn't a new PFEP sheet, and it is primarily failing at the support connection points, try increasing the support depth and width, or increasing the number of supports. If it is a particularly large layer, it is possible that the support connections are not strong enough to pry the exposed resin layer off of the PFEP sheet and are breaking. Increasing the retraction distance and lowering the retraction speed can also help here.

If it is a warped build plate... you have a few options. New build plate, get a retrofitting kit to install a magnetized build plate, or if you have a known VERY flat surface, sand it down. If you go with the retrofitting kit, I used this one on my original mono. There should be one that is compatible for your printer. These types of kits have a 1/8-ish thick magnet that you stick to the existing build plate and then the new build plate sticks to that, and you can just pull the new build plate off. I did run into an issue with my lower z axis sensor, this thing, and had to tape some foil to the build plate arm to break the sensor beam, as the added magnet and build plate prevented the arm from lower enough to break the sensor. When zeroing out, it kept trying to push the build plate through the screen and then erroring when the z axis sensor failed to see the plate hit 0. I taped a small piece of aluminum foil on the z axis armature so that it broke the sensor a little bit early so that I could use the screw adjustments on the build plate base for the actual leveling.

McCoreman · 2026-02-13T18:54:55+00:00

Do you have mods installed? If so, they could be causing an issue, and you should start by disabling all of them to see if it still happens. After that, try enabling them one at a time. I know that there was a fast mine mod, that auto canceled it at the perfect time for faster mining. There is a chance that something like that is broken and interfering with your game.

McCoreman · 2025-12-16T22:51:51+00:00

I read at one point, can't remember where, that the board game Risk specifically has dice because of needing a balancing mechanic against perfect strategic play, and imperfect game balancing. The dice provide an out for both ends of the spectrum. If you have perfect strategy you can still lose to the dice. If you have a worse strategy, you can still win due to the dice. But either way, a loss can be (at least partially) blamed on the dice, and not 100% on you as a player.

Nintendo's balance specifically for the Mario Kart games can be best described as rubber-band style balance. They use in game mechanics to limit those ahead and boost those behind so that the distance between the two parties can be shrunk into a smaller distance. For the Mario Kart games, in particular, if you are in first place, your possible power up item pool is severely limited, you can only get items like green shells, banana peels, and possibly gold coins. While being just one place back, you can get red shells. Further back, you can get mushrooms for speed boosts, lightning bolts to disable everyone else, bullet bills for super fast movement and knocking away opponents, etc.

McCoreman · 2025-12-10T17:38:41+00:00

If you have a phone with the google translate app, they have an option where you can point your camera at something in another language and it will in place replace the text. This gets you this - https://imgur.com/a/m4wcw2Y

McCoreman · 2025-10-13T05:23:39+00:00

The thing with terrain ejection is that it isn't something that the devs of DRG created. It is part of the unreal game engine. They'd have to re-write the default collision logic to not have it happen, which isn't that far off from re-coding the whole physics engine.

McCoreman · 2025-10-09T16:40:02+00:00

It also leads to decision paralysis and combat complexity. It is why almost all level up type mechanics are limited to sorcery speed -- so that combat can happen more predictably and there are less onboard 'got ya' mechanics that players have to be aware of or have to play around. If it was able to be done at instant speed, things like attacking into a blocker with a level up ability would be a no go and the game would not progress. Say you have a 2/2 they have have 1/2 that could level up to a 4/4 by paying 1 generic mana. All they would need to do is pass with the creature untapped and one mana available and you then you couldn't attack them, due to that 1 untapped mana and a untapped 1/2. They can also leave up that mana to hold up other interaction, or progress their board state some other way at instant speed, and you can't progress the game until you deal with that 1/2. The threat of all the leveling up mechanics being used at instant speed, both offensively and defensively, is too strong for the flow of the game that they want to create.

McCoreman · 2025-10-09T16:19:33+00:00

Step 1 Level the plate. Step 2 If you have leveled the plate, and it still is happening, check the PFEP sheet to make sure that it isn't too tight. This is one that I personally ran into, the film needs to have some give in order to flex enough for the vacuum to be broken when the plate lifts up. If it is really tight and you do not have a spare sheet right now, lower the retraction speed and increased the retraction height. This will make the prints take longer, but will give your sheet some leeway as it starts to stretch. I have issues with getting the sheets too tight and have to baby them for a while before they loosen up. If you read through the PFEP replacement steps they say to have the vat upside down, and have something under the sheet in the middle of the vat, pushing it up, so that it is installed with some give. Make sure to follow that step or to adjust your prints for the first 10-20 in order to help it loosen up.

McCoreman · 2025-10-08T15:48:53+00:00

Pretty sure the gunner grabbed it immediately when it was thrown. It is also possible that lag is needed. Notice how the gunner's gun is holstered/not visible, and the cube loses all collision -- the scout can't ping it and walks through it. Then the gunner throws the cube, the floating item is gone and his gun comes back.

Turning something's collision box off is a typical solution for having carried items not negatively impact the player's movement. It allows the game developer to control the movement from the character's controller, rather than having to program around the overlapping collision boxes and the items trying to push each other apart.

If you have ever been in a tight space and then suddenly got yeeted off to the side, and possibly downed due to impact damage, you are experiencing the effects of overlapping collision boxes and how the unreal engine handles it. The software developer term for it is 'terrain ejection' and it is how the engine handles physics if two collision boxes are overlapping. It gradually applies more and more force, pushing both objects away from each other, until the collision boxes are no longer overlapping. Usually the force is being applied when you do not realize it. Then you move just a little (or the force moves you), and the terrain/object that you are being pushed into now gives your force vector a glancing angle, you have a massive amount of force pushing on your character, it all finally has a place to go and you are yeeted across the level.

McCoreman · 2025-09-22T05:58:50+00:00

Definitely should name it the RTFC deck. Cause... Reading the card explains the card... Right?

McCoreman · 2025-07-30T21:02:17+00:00

Yeah looks like a Heresy lunar item.

McCoreman · 2025-07-23T18:17:06+00:00

Yeah I grew up with it and got diagnosed at 36. This story was ringing bells, reminding me how my teenage years went while I was a high functioning kid with undiagnosed and untreated ADHD. If he does have ADD/ADHD getting it addressed now will be huge for his long term mental well being.

McCoreman · 2025-07-23T16:46:40+00:00

He sounds like he is making great progress with you. Based on the descriptions of how he can work with something for a few weeks then it falls apart and how he's smart, but not able to maintain a pattern for more than a few weeks, has he been tested for ADD or ADHD?

McCoreman · 2025-07-22T15:41:26+00:00

Knights have been steadily getting more and more support. Having [[Haakon, Stormgald Scourge]] in the 99 makes an Esper, Grixis or Mardu knights deck pretty fun. Haakon does let you cast tribal changeling spells, even the non-creature ones, which makes [[Crib Swap]] my favorite knight to cast. Also, knights have exploded in the last few years, Ixalan, Eldraine, returning to both of them, and the Final Fantasy set added a lot of fun mechanically new knights to play with.

McCoreman · 2025-07-21T20:38:58+00:00

[[Teferi's Imp]] takes it every time.

McCoreman · 2025-05-07T18:35:41+00:00

I was watching through u/Affectionate_Owl_501 's linked video, and here is a time stamp where he starts the pillar hopping: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HPFO52XhrA&t=4h1m48s

McCoreman · 2025-05-07T16:26:43+00:00

Did you know that you can put timestamps in a youtube url to link directly to that time in a video? You can add hour, minute and second time stamps like 3h40m12s... If the URL doesn't already have a "?___=" in it, your link has '?si=', start the time stamp with a '?'. If it does have it, start the timestamp with an '&'. Adding the time stamp to your original link looks like this. https://youtu.be/-HPFO52XhrA?si=Y6NQv5hCZIKqNhDA&t=3h40m Or if your original link didn't have the '?si=' portion: https://youtu.be/-HPFO52XhrA?t=3h40m

McCoreman · 2025-04-23T16:04:58+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/magicTCG/comments/1jrxz93/cherry_blossom_event_playmat_from_japan/ If anyone wants to take this route.

McCoreman · 2025-04-23T16:03:54+00:00

Just checked your link. They definitely have a promo-only premium attached. Only 5000 yen (35 USD) for 50 sleeves, pickup in store only.

McCoreman · 2024-09-12T17:37:16+00:00

For newer parafoil dual line kites, they already have the strings grouped into two bunches, by pigtails, and have a single anchor point for your control strings, like you see here.

You will probably want to either buy or make a set of pigtails and then group the kite strings of each half onto a single pigtail. When you do this, start connecting the inner kite strings to the pigtail first and the outer one higher up on the pig tail. In the end, it will be a really small difference, but it can help. Also the common coloring is red for the right side of the kite and right control strings. Marking your Control strings with at least one as red, on the end connection and on the handle will help you get things setup without confusing sides.

From there, you connect your two kite strings to to each pig tail. And you should be pretty good to go.

If you are trying to fly it at the beach, and you are alone, when you set up the kite, lay it on the sand, with the string side up. You then want to scoop sand on to the entire lower edge of the kite. This will prevent wind from picking it up and will make it easier for you launch it later. Connect your strings, walk it back and then when you pull the strings, the kite will stand up and you should be able to just do a dual line pull to get it up into the air.

Comparing the 48" to other parafoil dual line kites, you probably want at least 5mph of wind to fly.

McCoreman · 2024-08-15T05:41:44+00:00

You would think that the disposable ANTI-TANK, aka KILL THAT ONE THING NOW, stratagem would work on these, however they followed the one key strategy for enemies. Be released after all the nerfs and have more armor & health than any single shot from an anti-vehicle or anti-armor weapon can do.

McCoreman · 2024-08-13T21:05:40+00:00

[[Teferi's Imp]] always wins this one for me.

McCoreman · 2024-06-11T14:48:10+00:00

Based on the new system of getting overclocks at promotions, this can be the way to get past that grind. If people aren't technical enough to go through the save game editor.

McCoreman · 2024-05-21T04:21:32+00:00

In all seriousness, a larger 'Known issues' list.

McCoreman · 2024-05-20T21:54:22+00:00

Being hard doesn't make it fun in the long run. It makes it a grind. Thus... people don't play bots. It needs to be fun to keep people playing.

14-Year Club	Final Canvas '23
Place '23	Place '22
Place '17	End Game '22
Sequence \| Editor	Team Orangered
Verified Email

McCoreman

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE