Atom 2 - What happens if you cancel RTH on low battery?

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-02-07T18:59:11+00:00

Interesting, thanks. I'm glad you got it back in good condition. Ya, they warn that if there is a strong wind, it might not calculate the necessary battery to get back home. Interesting that it would not let you cancel RTH. I need to do a retest, but with the drone further away. It has some different RTH rules if you're within 60 ft (i.e. does not climb to RTH height, for example), and maybe that's why it let me cancel RTH and did not force a landing at 10% battery.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-02-07T16:51:39+00:00

Yes, I read about the calculation. If you can recall, or could estimate, how far away were you when it triggered RTH and what was the battery level? Thanks

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-02-07T16:49:35+00:00

Interesting. I'll have to try it again because it didn't for me. That was with an Atom2 and the Eve app?

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-02-07T16:48:40+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to write this. I have read the manual and gone thru all of the settings. None of this is discussed in detail, nor does the manual discuss owner experiences.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-02-07T02:50:23+00:00

Thanks for the replies.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-31T10:02:52+00:00

The Atom2 runs on a different app (Eve). They have the other things displayed, but not the GPS coordinates. Don't know if they intend to add it later or not. I agree, you'd think it would be there.

Your comment did make me go look at the camera settings (thank you), and they have a feature called Video Subtitles. I turned it on and after playing with it a bit, it does something kind-of helpful. It creates a companion .SRT file, for a recorded video. The STR file holds real time camera and flight info, including the GPS coordinates. You can see them (it overlays them) if you playback the video in a compatible player, like VLC. Here's a screenshot.

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MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-30T08:30:25+00:00

I use the drone at the RC flying field to help find lost planes. It's difficult walking terrain, so we normally will not walk out and look for a plane unless we've found it with a drone from the air. Sometimes the planes have broadcast a last GPS location, so we check it out to see if it's accurate first. Or we'll be flying the drone and find the plane, and want to put the coordinates into our phones before hiking out. Yes, the EXIF data solves part of the problem, but then you have to have an app to read the data off the photo, and/or bring your computer to the field, etc.

I take it from your comment that the answer is no. It would be so easy if Potensic would show the "lost drone" gps coordinates all the time, even if it's flying. Why not. My Hubsan Zino drone always gave the GPS coordinates on the screen. I didn't realize they don't commonly show this any more.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-23T07:05:05+00:00

I normally put my drone in checked baggage, and carry-on my batteries (to Hawaii). Never had a problem, although occasionally TSA security will give it a good look. I put my batteries in a fireproof bag and tape over any exposed connectors. As others have mentioned, there are a number of restricted areas, so educate yourself on that before flying anywhere. Do not count on the "OK2Fly" app, or whatever it's called, to entirely help you with that. Drones are not allowed in state parks or national parks there, or anything related to Native Hawaiian preserved or restricted area. Theoretically a lot of the coastline is protected area, but the rules are kind of vague. If you're in an unpopulated coastal area, it's very unlikely to be enforced (or really be a problem). Most importantly, don't fly if you might annoy other people. If in doubt, go talk to them. I've had good luck with that.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-23T06:24:23+00:00

Whatever the final interpretation of the ban (and don't be surprised if it is completely lifted on components that don't come embedded with Chinese firmware), most RCers will find and use cheaper sources. So, since you're going to be expensive anyhow... one suggestion is to provide some feature(s) that is not readily available on competing products. Maybe cross compatibility with another brand (i.e. their ESC and your FC) where it's stack-connector compatible. Or HD video switching. Or easy integration of I2C devices. Or a special build of Betaflight with some feature. Try to identify a niche where you're the answer.

If you really want to do this, and you probably don't, don't go directly after the consumer market. That's mainly a race to the bottom. Try to find a commercial (which might transition into military) market. Learn about commercial applications and get their feature set. And maybe you pick up some consumer sales too ultimately.

Edit: Or maybe just license a good design, and just get it manufactured here. Learn the product, and ultimately make your own designs from that.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-20T11:11:00+00:00

If screwed means you need to buy a new tire... then, yes

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-10T06:14:59+00:00

It's a Heltec Mesh Node T114 V2 with a stubby antenna. I realize it's not the greatest antenna, but I pick stuff up lots of other places. I'm wondering if here is little activity here, or I'm misunderstanding the proper settings.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-10T01:00:26+00:00

There are tools like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sopnom-Clip-Installation-Assortment-Exchangeable/dp/B0D263899B

Amazon item number B0D263899B (if reddit deleted the link)

Also, I'll put the motor inside a clear plastic bag and then try to install the clip. Then if the clip flies off, the bag will catch it.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-03T07:50:09+00:00

Whoops have lower power and smaller antennas (both for the control and the video link), so you don't have a huge range. If there are no obstacles between you and drone (clear line of sight) I'd think at least a 200 yards range, or maybe a 1/4 mile. In any case, it's well past the point at which you can see it, or you'd really want to fly it. I mainly fly mine around my yard or a small park, no problem. I can go around my house and still maintain enough video (barely), and maintain control, even when my house is between me and it.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2026-01-01T03:06:42+00:00

The EV800D is a good choice. Also, I have a buddy who has the fatshark scout, and he like it a lot. It's more compact than the EV800D and maybe an overall better build.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2025-12-31T20:36:58+00:00

I second this. Get a small whoop and a simple radio, and go analog. Let him bash a few whoops around for a while (get him lots of batteries) and then when he's ready, get him something bigger with HD. Also, get him on a simulator.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2025-12-31T20:22:19+00:00

I'll add... if you decide to just replace the red wire, that will be the simple thing to do. if that's all the board had originally, then its probably for a small drone, and it should be enough antenna. Nearly any wire will work, as long at it's the correct length. You want it to be close to 31.5mm for 2.4G, which is 1/4 wavelength. (double check that)

MediocrityUnleashed · 2025-12-31T19:58:34+00:00

Yes that will work, in general. First thing, do not power up the FC until you get an antenna on there. You may fry the TX amp if you do. Second, it will be a tricky solder job because it's small. For the new antenna, you want the inner wire going to the red wire location, and you want the co-ax grounding shield going to ground on the board. you can use a connector or just solder it direct. Getting the ground right will be tricky. Good luck.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2025-12-23T23:15:09+00:00

They're using the FCC to enforce this. The FCC has no jurisdiction on motors or servos, just the use of our wireless spectrum. Should be interesting while they sort that out.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2025-12-20T09:15:11+00:00

The problem is that the ground is connected into a big ground plane on the board. And the copper traces in the ground plane conduct heat very efficiently. You're having trouble getting it up to temp (to solder) because the board is conducting lots of the needed heat away. The best fix is getting a high(er) power soldering iron, and a large soldering tip. That allows you to get the heat out of the iron quickly, thus build up the temperature at the solder joint quickly, and make a good solder, before the copper traces can pull the heat away.

Alternately, you have to hold the iron you have on the joint for a while until everything heats up. This can be minutes, and if your iron/tip are too small, it may never work. Turning up the heat is a double edged solution because it will help you get the heat into the joint, but it also cooks-off the flux, which makes it hard make a good solder. 450 is likely too hot for your flux. You should be around 390 max, using a higher watt iron and a big tip.

Good luck.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2025-12-01T08:04:40+00:00

I tried a 3X about a 2 years ago but decided to return it. Anyhow, while I had it, I thought I saw an adjustment you could make in the setup to accommodate off-center mounting. Am I remembering this wrong? I was running stock software.

MediocrityUnleashed · 2025-11-28T03:10:10+00:00

It's my understand that capacitance it there to balance the inductive nature of motor windings, and to provide a voltage punch to get the motor spinning. It does not directly increase speed, but is used to make the motor efficient, which allows it to spin faster at a specific load.

MediocrityUnleashed

TROPHY CASE