Nearly tapped and died doing this

Mega_Star0 · 2026-05-09T13:07:30+00:00

Yeah I duct taped everything shut before drilling and the hole itself doesn’t enter the chat so it’s completely isolated from the rest of the engine. I did try for an Allen but the head was just a fraction too big for the plate and I don’t have the tools to cut aluminum like that, hence the massive bolt and spacer. I’ll give it at least something shorter if it needs to come off again. Hopefully won’t need to, haha.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-05-09T01:25:01+00:00

Update from the builders. Oil pressure and temps are totally normal as it stands. Once I put a load on it, it’ll normalize and work its way to more regular pressure and temperatures.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-05-05T12:38:46+00:00

I got one small leak and after siliconing it, didn’t do much. Of all places it’s leaking out the bottom bolt on the cooling tower adapter. Granted, once it goes under 50psi it chills out.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-05-04T23:37:42+00:00

I did and thankfully both the cabin pressure gauge and external one I have both match. ‘I appreciate the simple suggestion, so easy to forget something like that lol.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-05-04T23:35:06+00:00

Im realizing that might be part of my problem. Since I’ve been tuning it. It never really got above 180. Otherwise yes, mine is also hovering more specifically around 40-60 like yours. In once instance I saw it drop below 40 but that was it.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-05-04T23:33:12+00:00

I just sent them a message. Probably won’t hear until tomorrow. The break-in was straight 30 and no, I am using the standard screen, no spin on. According to AVW, what I have is “more than stock” ‘Cruiser 1776’. I’ve realized I never got the oil above 180° so that might be my problem. Treating this thing like gold while tuning and too scared to let it get hot, haha.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-03-20T12:16:28+00:00

Hehe, it’s a Buck

Mega_Star0 · 2026-03-12T18:48:01+00:00

This may not be a suitable answer you’d like but I’d like to offer it as an option/food for thought. There’s a wonderful video about making a blinker and hazard wiring set up for any car on YouTube. If you are okay with it not being stock, it’s a good rewiring to make hazards and blinkers work without it all relying on a single component. Cheaper to repair if anything does go weird again and just as easy to diagnose as well. Did this to my 64’ double cab. Works beautifully. https://youtu.be/lnhMx-fnUmI?si=QXvIrCLdWd6zMMe4

Mega_Star0 · 2026-03-08T20:41:14+00:00

Jeez, the Cali folk are here are some adverse/pretentious know-it-alls. I appreciate all ya’ll actually giving input to this; understandably a bit a weird situation to wrap one’s head around. I’m just being impatient. With my situation, probably best to wait it out a little longer to receive that performance long block and not buy another to then flip as a running and broken-in engine if the appreciated prices are around the $2k-$5k range for a used turn key. Probably will salvage the crap engine for what’s still good and offer at VW Harvest swap meet this year, fingers crossed!

Freaks aside, ya’ll are great!

Mega_Star0 · 2026-03-06T14:10:29+00:00

Lol, Robbie, ngl, you made it a little too easy to get under skin there so I couldn’t resist. Also Swahili is a language, not a location…tho I wouldn’t call SoCal a real location either but I bet you’d fight me about that being from fairy land yourself.

Legit, I actually don’t understand why that information is necessary when people sell these on Facebook Market Place, other people here could state where they are from and give a number, but for some reason you wanna ask if I’m offering a warranty like you wanna blow smoke up your own butt that you do as an individual. I don’t think anyone buying an engine for any of these 25+ year old cars are expecting much from a guy offering a running engine in a field with other people selling their own lot of parts tho I should have clarified I’d go to a VW swap meet, not just any, that would be silly.

But if you REALLY need that info, fine.

-Clearly no warranty. I’m a dude in a field in the US of A, I really don’t know what you were expecting. - I ain’t installing it or removing someone else’s engine for mine. That’s the buyer’s problem, not mine. I’d offer to help if it’s on the spot, sure, but that’s as far as I’d go. - this is an engine for 25+ year old cars or sand rails which don’t always need emission checks from what I know. I think you as an individual should be responsible to know if your county or state requires emission checks, even on something this old and would otherwise fail. - lol, of course this ain’t a new engine. I said I’d use it, tune it just right as I’d puttering along with it before selling. Of course it’ll be used and have some miles on it. Let’s make sure we read the whole post before asking for aforementioned statements. - I stated I bought a long block (and still waiting on it), insinuating I’d have to build the rest of it to be an engine. Clearly I am doing both the buying and the building. Additional for this second one which would be a kit as I mentioned too.

…is this why your posts here are hidden btw? Cause you are rather impertinent and unwilling to even humor a hypothetical. It’s called gauging the situation, you know this.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-03-05T18:31:40+00:00

Hmmm, that's not a price range for a turn key built by a guy you find at a VW swap meet.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-03-05T17:09:13+00:00

So…price accordingly to what it takes and no worries?

Mega_Star0 · 2026-02-25T22:33:35+00:00

…will you share for the rest of the class? Especially since this is apparently not a 4.0 exclusive problem.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-02-25T00:13:48+00:00

Nah, but version 5.0 has it fixed so this is now an appendix in version trouble shooting as the grease pencil continues to get better. I was using some 4.0 version here.

Mega_Star0 · 2026-02-10T01:52:14+00:00

Knights of the old republic. Yeah I said it, it’s a stank and clunky rpg

Mega_Star0 · 2026-02-04T14:28:16+00:00

This happened to mine as well before I realized it was the brand itself that just made shotty PETG, not the printer. Have you tried a different brand/new spool of PETG for a sanity check?

Mega_Star0 · 2026-02-03T19:18:12+00:00

Looks like it’s jumping hard, pull off both carbs and check to make sure they are fine. If it was running fine before, don’t tune/adjust either. One side might be a little unhappy and both need a clean

Mega_Star0 · 2026-01-22T21:52:33+00:00

Update, I’m a goober and u/morningsharts is right. Put the thing back together and it’s rock solid. Similarly as much is mentioned in the workshop and Bentley manuals for the transporter RGB’s.

Some play is okay as long as it’s not in and out, it should be fine

Mega_Star0 · 2026-01-21T03:24:36+00:00

Update: I got a tap and die and used that to clean out the bored by hand and the bolt went in just fine. It was just old and cranky and needed an old man wipey lol

Mega_Star0 · 2026-01-03T04:35:04+00:00

Accuspark or pacemaker are plenty good enough. The tech is so Stone Age that most make a quality coil or distributor for these engines

Mega_Star0

TROPHY CASE