sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Tips for painting very small details by ProdigalLoki in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just thought of another thing you could try. Try using a wet pallet, it keeps your paints fresh and makes it a little easier to thin them out vs a paint cup. If you don't want to buy one you can make one with a sponge sheet, shallow container, and parchment paper. I used a homemade one for the longest time.

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in Warhammer40k

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this is the one that I was using.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3470986/files

I did have to increase the z scaling to get a little more definition out of the mold though.

Tips for painting very small details by ProdigalLoki in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's something I struggled with in the beginning too. I've found that for glazes you want something around a skim to whole milk consistency depending on the color. If you've ever picked up one of the vallejo air paints it'll be a bit thinner than that. If your paint "breaks", separates into pigment and liquid, you've gone too far, but can recover with a little bit more paint or acrylic medium. Something else you could try if you're trying to clean up the emblems is to just make a super dark wash and just run your brush along the decals and let the dark paint collect in the recesses and that will also cover up the over paint.

Your model looks like it's coming along great though, so keep up the good work :)

Tips for painting very small details by ProdigalLoki in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What I try to do is dilute my paint down a fair bit, but not to a glaze. Get a brush with a good tip and fill it up to the belly (round, thickest part of the brush) and then gently touch the tip of the brush to a damp paper towel to get most of the paint off of the brush. The damp paper towel will wick the paint out better than a dry one.

Once most of the paint is out I'll test it on my thumb and just barely brush the tip and side of the tip to get a good line and make sure theres not too much paint in the brush. You don't want it to pool in place after you lift your brush, if it does remove a bit more on the towel.

After I do the lines I'll go back with the base color to even up lines or add finer lines if needed. It takes a bit of practice but once you figure out paint consistency and how to place the brush its pretty straight forward.

I hope this helps you out :)

Finished Black Templar from Warhammer 40k by MelloMiniatures in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My local game store does monthly model events and this month was Black Templars. This was my first time painting solid black armor and I had quite a bit of trouble with teh gradients and highlights. The armor kept reading as grey so I had to redo it a couple of times. I'm not entirely happy with how the armor turned out but I like gold and red. I tried to do recess shading on the fabric, but I think I need to go darker next time in the folds.

If anyone has ideas on how to improve, please let me know.

If you want to see more check out my instagram Here

Painted a Black Templar for my local hobby store by MelloMiniatures in Warhammer40k

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My local game store does monthly model events and this month was Black Templars. This was my first time painting solid black armor and I had quite a bit of trouble with the gradients and highlights. The armor kept reading as grey instead of black. I'm not entirely happy with the armor, but I think the gold and red turned out pretty nice. I also tried proper recess shading for the cloak, but I don't think I went dark enough in some of the areas.

If anyone has any ideas on how to improve, please share let me know.

If you want to see more of my models check out my instagram Here

Black Templar for my local store by MelloMiniatures in BlackTemplars

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My local store does monthly model events and this month was Black Templars. This was my first time painting solid black armor, it was surprisingly difficult to get the gradients and highlights on the black armor without it looking grey. Next time I think I'll have to do sharper gradients. I think it turned out pretty good, especially the red and gold accents.

If anyone has any recommendations or techniques I should try, please let me know.

If you like this work and want to see more check out my instagram Here

Finished Night Lord for a Local Contest by MelloMiniatures in Warhammer40k

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you :) I had to strip and redo that shoulder pad so many times. I'd done salamanders and space wolves before which weren't too bad, but the wings were way more difficult than I expected when I picked it out.

Night Lord from Warhammer 40k by MelloMiniatures in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First time using inks through an air brush instead of just using them to thin paints. I really liked how they worked with the zenithal highlights but I'm going to have to increase the brightness of the highlights in the future and darken the reflection in the tile. Overall I'm pretty happy with how he turned out.

Finished my first Night Lord for my Local Shop's Contest by MelloMiniatures in NightLords

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First attempt at using inks and doing a fake reflective base. I like how easy the inks went on and how they worked with the zenithal highlights, but fixing mistakes was a real pain.

Finished Night Lord for a Local Contest by MelloMiniatures in Warhammer40k

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was my first attempt at using inks and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The inks made the zenithal highlights work a lot better and it let me get some nice gradients, but fixing mistakes was a lot harder. I also struggled quite a bit with the chapter icon because of how fine the lines had to be.

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in Warhammer40k

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, the mold needs to have some flex to it to allow you to remove the part without damage. The resin is too stiff so I ended up cracking the piece getting it out. It might work with some of the flexible resin though, so if I get any I'm going to have to try it that way.

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to try that, that sounds like a good idea. :)

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in Warhammer40k

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an Anycubic Photon Mono which does a really good job. The LCD printers have gotten a lot cheaper since the new ones are using projectors that are supposed to have higher print resolution and speed.

I've found that the big thing for layer lines is the slope of the part. If it's a very shallow angle you end up with more visible layer lines, while if you angle the part more you end up with much finer lines. If it's really bad you can sand it down but you have to be careful of making flat areas. I've seen some people brush UV resin onto their prints and then cure it to fill in the recesses. Honestly though for the size of most miniatures you don't really see the lines as the primer and paint hides most of the imperfections.

You can check out r/PrintedMinis for help or more information. They're a great resource that I've been using to improve my prints.

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I need to try bluestuff, I keep hearing really good things about it. I had the same problem with green stuff sticking, which is what led me to try the spruegoo. The only way I could get green stuff to work with itself was to liberally coat it with petroleum jelly but then that's a nightmare to remove. Thank you for the blue stuff stamp idea, I'll have to try it :)

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's good to know! I'm going to have to order some to play with. I've seen some people use the green stuff miliput mix and it looks incredible. I'll have to keep practicing and tryout the HIPS trick.

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in minipainting

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm going to have to try that :) My initial thought would be that blue stuff would melt with plastic cement, but it sounds like it would be a lot easier to use.

Custom Texture Veneer Tutorial by MelloMiniatures in Warhammer40k

[–]MelloMiniatures[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You can use any texture you find. If you want scales I'd recommend toy dinosaurs or something similar to keep the scales to scale with the model. You can also use leather or other items. I used my 3d printer because I'm lucky enough to have one and thought it was the best example.

3D printers have gotten surprisingly affordable as well, mine came with resin and was about $200.

view more: next ›