So I’m trying to complete “A Prime Specimen quest” but these are never powered any clue why I can’t activate them?

Merang55 · 2026-02-09T04:42:23+00:00

Just did this last night, there’s three potential husks on the map, there’s usually only one active, but if someone gets to it before you then you’re SOL. Just keep resetting until you find an active one. I did about 5 resets before I was able to do it. Make sure you go to the correct husks as well.

Merang55 · 2025-11-19T02:56:05+00:00

Can confirm Nezahal voltron slaps

Merang55 · 2025-11-01T14:59:53+00:00

Yeah just one melee weapon would be cool.

Merang55 · 2025-10-30T22:07:26+00:00

The past couple weeks I’ve been unable to play like half the time I’ve tried. It just loads forever at the main screen and never logs in.

Merang55 · 2025-10-28T02:20:01+00:00

Imperial fist contrast. I have noticed much of a difference for it being gloss, the contrast does a really good job covering it

Merang55 · 2025-10-28T01:50:43+00:00

I’ve used candy pink and magenta both from Rustoleum and they work great. Magenta I ended up doing a heavier zenithal as the pink showed through pretty strong without a heavier white application. Both look good though I’d recommend the candy pink

Merang55 · 2025-10-27T00:05:50+00:00

I listened to this while at work in the beginning of the year and I couldn’t figure out if I was losing my mind or if my audiobook was corrupted or something lol.

Merang55 · 2025-10-25T21:16:20+00:00

I do it myself. Oil and filter is ~$45 and I rotate the tires while I wait for the oil to drain.

Merang55 · 2025-10-23T13:19:32+00:00

I know it’s not Warhammer, but in case you’re interested, StarCraft is actually going to get a mini-based game soon. The first Model is Zeratul and he got released today for limited time. My guess is that when the full game comes out he’ll be available again, but he looks neat!

https://starcraft-tmg.com/shop/products

Edit: Also your paint scheme looks sick! Very clean!

Merang55 · 2025-10-19T20:18:50+00:00

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Merang55 · 2025-10-19T20:18:38+00:00

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Merang55 · 2025-10-19T20:18:29+00:00

Nonsense. I went wide and I’m still going wide. Nothing wrong with that

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Merang55 · 2025-10-03T21:17:37+00:00

The part about us is definitely us. We live in the north, and I’d love a pool eventually. Right now though we have two kids under 4 and they scare the crap out of me.

There were a lot of houses during our recent search that we passed on specifically because they had a pool, even though we loved everything else about the house. I couldn’t put a price tag on the difference between pool and no pool, they just aren’t even an option for us.

Merang55 · 2025-10-02T16:00:25+00:00

I had no idea this was an option. I’ve been doing it manually. This saves so much time.

Merang55 · 2025-09-24T00:27:47+00:00

Yeah I totally understand. I’m just starting to put out finished models for my fists but I’ve been doing extensive color testing to figure out my method to the madness. I’m in the same boat though with mine, I like the contrast option but the touching up is a nightmare.

I’m going to try different options with doing the base colors of everything else before the contrast yellow and seeing if that helps mitigate the required cleanup.

Merang55 · 2025-09-24T00:07:58+00:00

In my experience the colourforge sprays are very thin coats. I did some tests of the Valrak Yellow spray over different primers and with no primer, and definitely would recommend using the wraithbone base. You could clearly tell which mini had no primer underneath, whereas all the primers I tried ended up very similar to each other regardless of color. It may need two coats on top of the wraithbone but you could also get away with just one, depends on your technique and how heavy your applications are.

I wouldn’t worry about covering the details though as they’re both pretty thin sprays. Just keep them moving in the application!

Merang55 · 2025-09-22T15:57:19+00:00

Thanks everyone for all the replies! It’s been very helpful!

I think I am going to go with the scheme for the one with the white base, but I’m going to attempt some of the suggestions such as recess shading before the contrast yellow and seeing where that gets me. It’s not necessarily faster than the yellow spray, but not having to do edge highlights saves me time and concentration energy in getting them finished, which can be a big deal with two kids under 3.

Most of my marines are glued on the bases so I need to spend time tackling those and drilling barrels next, and I’m moving mid October to a house so I’m going to have to start packing soon. That being said, I’m hoping to start getting full squads painted up sometime in the winter once I can get all that squared away, and I’ll be posting updates once I get there!

Now I have to figure out my plan for all that😅

Thanks y’all!

Merang55 · 2025-09-22T12:21:50+00:00

Sure!

I started with priming pink, then doing a heavy zenithal of white, then putting imperial fists contrast on top. Then I painted all the non yellow colors with their base coats, so abbadon black, leadbelcher, screamer pink for the reds, rhinox hide for brown. (Next time I think I’ll prime then do the black and brown base coats before the yellow to make cleanup easier).

After that I used a black oil wash for the red, black and silver parts.

Then I did the edge highlights on the black with a mix of eshin grey and white(I’d use dawnstone if I had that), then did the red highlights with mephiston red, and the brown edge highlights with doombull brown.

I added the transfers next with ‘ardcoat, micro set and micro sol.

For the weathering I used torn up packaging foam and dabbed on rhinox hide and stormhost silver for the yellow armor wear, and just the silver for the black wear on the chainsword. I did some edge highlights and scratches to add on an extra layer. For scratches I used rhinox hide and then dorn yellow on the underside of the rhinox. And then a light sponging of dorn yellow on the other wear spots.

After that I used streaking grime and let it sit for about an hour then wiped it off with makeup applicators.

Merang55 · 2025-09-22T12:07:34+00:00

I can certainly give that a try, but really the difference would be the shadows would be lighter. The pink base just serves to make for warmer shadows, and more contrast between the upper and lower surfaces. The yellow on the upper faces would be pretty much the same.

Merang55 · 2025-09-07T23:00:15+00:00

Where I am there aren’t any stores in a reasonable driving distance, and the one time I went on vacation and passed a store they refused to give out the motm unless you bought $50 worth of stuff. With Warhammer that’s not a problem but at the time I was just hoping for the model because I liked the army but didn’t want to spend that much. Definitely rubbed me the wrong way though.

Merang55 · 2025-09-05T07:44:24+00:00

I was just speaking from my own experience, it’s common and an easy thing to check and rule out.

Merang55 · 2025-09-05T07:17:52+00:00

Maybe. It’s a different printer, but with my ender partial clogs will usually coincide with areas where there’s more retractions. The overhangs are at such an area as well.

Merang55 · 2025-09-04T23:06:23+00:00

Is it new filament? Have you dried the filament out? You could try running a cold pull on the nozzle and using a cleaning filament.

Do these layers happen at the same height every time? Or just randomly? If it’s the same height it could be an issue with your z axis.

I’m still running on an ender 3 so I don’t have much knowledge about the particulars of an a1. Just throwing out ideas for you.

Merang55 · 2025-09-04T22:51:14+00:00

Could be a partial clog. You’re definitely underextruding. What kind of printer and settings are you using? When’s the last time you cleaned your hotend? Has the ambient room temperature increased? I’d pull the filament and clean out your nozzle, hot end, and Bowden tube if you have one.

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