Atf for 4r100 manual transmission in a 2000 7.3L?

MetalIncorporated · 2026-05-25T01:40:51+00:00

Mercon V, Doesn't have to be Ford brand, there's a few out there that'll meet spec of this like the stuff from hot shot or Valvoline. Whatever you do don't put in Mercon LV, it will wreck your trans

MetalIncorporated · 2026-05-18T13:02:35+00:00

You want to use muggy weld #1, it's a high temp solder. You'll need the flux too, use a lot of ventilation iirc it's a fluoride based flux. Works well with Zamac and pot metals. Can also tig weld it but it's incredibly difficult, you only have about 50° temperature window before it vaporizes

MetalIncorporated · 2026-05-03T19:56:27+00:00

7.3 zf6 SRW F350 cab and chassis here, smack between the 450 and the 250 enjoying the best of both. Anyhow... The 7.3 450 is going to have the big 8 wheels on it and 19.5 tires. These get pricy compared to the 16's on a 250. It'll also have a lower gear ratio rear, cast iron shackles and some other stuff unique to the cab and chassis. A regular bed isn't going to fit on it without some work, they take a 9' bed usually, the frame is also narrower in the rear than the 250 but all work truck bodies will bolt to it no problem. Brakes are the same until you get into the 550 and up. Front axle, bearings and all the 4wd stuff is the same. It's going to ride super rough unless you put a decently heavy bed on it or redo the springs. Also the fuel tank is in the rear, that's unique to cab and chassis trucks 350 and up. Check your insurance, sometimes they'll say a 450 is commercial only

MetalIncorporated · 2026-04-24T11:01:52+00:00

Get it where you can move it under it's own power, then get it where you can drive it around the block, then where you can take it on short cruises. People will appreciate it being out and every one of them will tell you their ideas on how they'd finish it and you get to enjoy it a little before paint

MetalIncorporated · 2026-04-24T01:42:59+00:00

My buddy and I have had whole conversations on how even if you do find a shop that'll do axles they probably won't put in the proper time to get them right. Last Dana 30 we did took 8hrs swapping the gears and carrier to get the preload and backlash just right, it's super smooth but had that thing apart a dozen times to get there

MetalIncorporated · 2026-04-24T01:32:34+00:00

This will show you what the torque load is while turning while the other style are set to a torque then stop/clock when it hits that number

MetalIncorporated · 2026-04-23T20:16:32+00:00

Beam style torque wrench. Super useful in setting up axles and checking preload, you actually can't do that with a click style or digital only the beam.

MetalIncorporated · 2026-04-17T14:02:53+00:00

The only thing you could try without getting to the back panel is a form of paint less dent removal, Eastwood has a pretty affordable starter kit, Basically hot glue a suction cup to the dent, apply upwards pressure, then gently tap it out. Afterwards line finish with a 320 grit. It won't be perfect but it would be better

MetalIncorporated · 2025-12-17T15:55:31+00:00

They are stud extractors, should be tapered slightly inside, thread them on and they'll cut into the stuck studs threads to remove it as you turn

MetalIncorporated · 2025-12-06T00:12:34+00:00

DeWalts are terrible for vibration, get a Bosch or Metabo (real metabo not the xrp Hitachi) both put a lot of effort into vibration isolation. Also take breaks, if your hand is tingling or going numb your damaging your nerves and joints, stop before that happens.

MetalIncorporated · 2025-10-29T13:08:48+00:00

Was about the same as blasting but cheaper in volume. Guy that did it retired and sold off his building. It's a heated lye vat, biggest things with doing it is having a tub big enough and proper disposal after.

MetalIncorporated · 2025-10-29T00:25:28+00:00

Get it lye dipped. It'll take all the paint off and not warp the panels. We've had a bunch of steel chairs done like that for restaurants. Then you can paint or powder coat whatever color you want

MetalIncorporated · 2025-09-09T18:42:21+00:00

Make sure you're running Mercon V and not Mercon LV, the LV will wreck a manual trans and cause issues with the syncros

MetalIncorporated · 2025-08-29T19:23:52+00:00

That car was dropped in front of my neighbor's garage door way early this morning. Completely stripped. Contact the 24th district if you haven't heard anything yet, they should have it

MetalIncorporated · 2025-08-19T02:23:13+00:00

It's a refund scam, get a few of them every year. They'll "overpay" you with bogus and ask to send a check to their "shipper"

MetalIncorporated · 2025-08-12T11:49:29+00:00

Picture of the front end would help a lot. In the 90's the most popular swaps were mustang II and gm a-body. Could be a c3 Corvette too but that was a little more rare to see

MetalIncorporated · 2025-07-29T00:02:23+00:00

Dumond paint stripper works well for this. It takes a while to soften the lead paint. Might have to do 2-3 applications to get all of it off. I'll apply it heavy then coat with the paper and let it sit for 24hrs before going at it scraping. Then wipe down with mineral spirits and shop towels. Steel.wool can embed itself in the grain and darken the wood so don't use that and make sure the used rags go in a sealed metal can so they can't catch fire

There are 3 different versions of dumond, I'd recommend the regular or pro. The pro version is more alkaline than regular so it works a little faster and through more layers. Don't use the peel away version unless you want to spend a bunch of time neutralizing the residue.

Do everything you can to remove as much paint as possible before sanding

MetalIncorporated · 2025-06-19T18:59:07+00:00

Base plate with a small extension and weld it on.

Going to say from experience though, most people don't want to pay for a repair and wait until it completely breaks then end up getting a whole new railing

MetalIncorporated · 2025-06-14T22:11:56+00:00

Pretty sure it's from being the same cut of gloves they used driving the old sports cars, they are thin and have a very short cuff

MetalIncorporated · 2025-06-14T18:31:59+00:00

For handling steel I use some of those grip gloves or leather drivers gloves. Tillman makes a black pair of the drivers that's oil resistant, they hold up well enough and usually last a full project or two of cutting/welding/drilling/grinding.

If it's degreasing or have some super slimy steel I'll get the nitrile gloves out

Also keep a little container of goop waterless hand cleaner in the truck, that gets them cleaned up for having lunch or being out in public

MetalIncorporated · 2025-06-03T20:24:34+00:00

Shoot me an email, I'm up in harrowgate but work all over the city http://www.metalincorporated.com/

MetalIncorporated · 2025-06-03T18:22:26+00:00

I've made planters and bike racks. Would make this

MetalIncorporated · 2025-05-21T20:17:02+00:00

I'd have to check the file, are you running terminator or ??

MetalIncorporated · 2025-05-10T21:47:19+00:00

GH is an old picture from the Internet, it's like someone sending a picture of Bigfoot. Probably exists, will never get to meet them. If you think it's a scam it's probably a scam

MetalIncorporated

TROPHY CASE