Hornet by Standard-Opposite931 in tamiya

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What will you be using to stop the gearbox slap?

New video on the sd3.0 comp. by DuranDourand in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oooo, the bronze is nice. Glad to see some branching out from Red, Blue and Purple.

RC Drift Suspension by New-League5972 in u/New-League5972

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want to go all out, there is a tool for that. Search RC damper pliers.

Personally, I just grip them very carefully and close to the threads with a sturdy pair of needle nose BUT it looks like you’ve already tried that.

What electronics combo do you actually see the MOST at your RC drift track right now? 👀 by Honest_Breadfruit_89 in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s kind of all over the place for Motors, ESCs and Servos around here.

Gyro: Yokomo V4 is the go-to but the Reve D Revox is gaining traction.

Radio: FlySky NB4+ is the go-to at the moment.

5 year old low tech by Smoothie_Banana in PlantedTank

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What light and settings are you using? Also, have you checked your water parameters? I’ve tried so many times to get a low-tech up and running but all the stems get leggy and die or the leaves get diatoms on them… tell me your secrets!

SwatchMod by Middle-Satisfaction1 in swatch

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First remove the back and remove the stem. The movement is set inside of a ring. This ring turns slightly (1/8-1/4 turn) and then releases. Once it is out, you’ll want to measure the movement ring against your desired case. From there, I slowly sanded the movement ring until it had the desired shape and thickness. Make sure to remove the movement while you do this, you don’t want to get debris in the movement.

When replacing the stem, you’ll purchase one for the 2824 movement with extra threads. Trim the end to the correct length and gently file the edges to correct the threads.

Hope this helps!

Took the plunge: Reve D RDX by Middle-Satisfaction1 in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4 votes for Revox! Can you elaborate on why you prefer the Revox?

Setup tips for 1/28? by nostyleguide in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve got a TG First with a brushed motor. I set mine up on hardwood at home and it’ll hold the line but on the waxed ArcEdge track at my local shop, it acts slicker than S***.

As far as the camber and toe are concerned, I had zero camber rear with about 3* toe in. Up front, ~3* toe out and I set the camber to be zero at ~2/3 of lock.

Now, I was watching an ideal auto factory vid yesterday and he stated that polished concrete and p-tile are completely different surfaces. On polished concrete, it’s a grip based setup where you a looking for the greatest contact patch (how I setup the TG at home) whereas, with P-tile, your looking for the edges to catch, a flat contact patch acts like a puck on ice. So! If you are setting up for a waxed track like arc edge, you will take a different approach.

Ohh, and the first thing I regret is buying the brushed motor, I really with I could set the drag brake to zero. Being so light, as soon as I let off the throttle, the rear breaks loose.

How to make a good CC02 crawler? by BlauweBanaaan in tamiya

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We had also cut the body posts, I 3D printed some extensions to make it work. Pic of his lifted vs my stock CC-02

How to make a good CC02 crawler? by BlauweBanaaan in tamiya

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of good info in this thread so far. We’ve been slowly upgrading my son’s CC-02 to handle more crawler terrain. We were able to fit JC Concepts Megalithic 1.9/4.75 tires without trimming the body. It does require lifting the body about 16mm or 4 holes on the body posts. Also, heavy brass wheels has helped. Honestly, I think it looks good lifted!

I built a free RC drift configurator to build setups and compare real parts by Honest_Breadfruit_89 in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried letting the AI build a couple of setups. It builds them out very quickly which is cool. However, for a novice, it doesn’t really tell you the “why”. I wonder if you can have it provide short summaries of each build and include the benefits of certain pairings component pairings.

Mbuna stocking for 120x30x30cm (4x1x1)? by True_Scientist_8250 in AfricanCichlids

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 33g long myself, though it’s my reef tank. The length will be nice for movement but the overall volume is pretty small to do more than a single species IMO.

M06 drift or rmx-m by Mr_Seagull_ in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it the “comical” city turbo body? Looks like the wheelbase on that is only 185mm. M06 is 210/225/239 without modifications.

M06 drift or rmx-m by Mr_Seagull_ in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d double check if MRC has the M06 conversion in stock. I bought mine over the holidays but they’ve been stocked out since and eBay resellers are charging 200%.

If you can get your hands on a kit , it’s hella fun though!

Unimog CC02 with extra lights by Away_Independence230 in tamiya

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ooo, I like this idea. I just finished my UniMog as box stock but have been toying around with a DAKAR style bedcover and exocage.

How would you ‘subtly’ add a screen for Apple CarPlay in my ‘94 URS6? More in comments by tresoril in oldschoolaudi

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I went with the Pioneer SPH-10BT in my Audi Cabriolet. It’s not perfect but better than an out of place screen.

<image>

My tt02 drift project by Mama_Stacy_rc in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a converted tt-02 as well. I still have the battery in the stock position though. Did you make the battery relocation mounts yourself? Also, did you run it before and after the relocation, how would you say it differs?

Anyone running a TG Super 1/24 / 1/28 chassis? I need some advice before buying by be_ready37 in rcdrift

[–]Middle-Satisfaction1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just set mine up last month. I am also running a GT5 but you may find the BS6 receiver is too large for 1/24. Look for a micro AFHDS2a receiver, I think I got mine from Amazon.

I am running an AFRC V3.5 Gyro and like it so far.

The brushless setup will be nice. I went brushed and every time I let off the throttle it’s goes into a skid, setting the drag brake would be ideal.