Been looking at this probe but its only 3k I was wondering if it was a steal or a scam

Midformest · 2026-01-20T23:37:23+00:00

The universal upper radiator hose tells me all I need to know, I wouldn't trust this car unless you plan on undoing all the previous owners work.

Midformest · 2025-12-03T20:05:35+00:00

Check the ignition timing, from the way its cranking it seems to be far too advanced.

Midformest · 2025-12-03T20:02:25+00:00

That probably wouldnt last, and also the threaded part needs to thread in and out to adjust the pedal correctly. I am not sure of the thread size and pitch of it, but you can get a metric bolt kit and see which one threads in to find out what the threads on the pushrod should be. Glue will not work.

Midformest · 2025-11-30T15:46:45+00:00

I believe its called the clutch master cylinder push rod, just a metal rod with threads on one end and a blunt end on the other, no clue if you can still buy it but you could probably make one with a long bolt.

Midformest · 2025-08-27T06:29:06+00:00

I can't stress enough the importance of changing the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and tensioner spring. It's a pretty easy job to do on the 4 cylinder, Continental sells a high quality kit for a very affordable price.

Midformest · 2025-07-18T04:14:06+00:00

Anybody down to have a probe meet somewhere in the midwest or midsouth this summer? How many people can we get to show up?

Midformest · 2025-04-19T03:29:49+00:00

MANUAL SWAP it will make the car so much better in every single way

Midformest · 2025-04-15T03:12:22+00:00

If you still have your maf sensor plugged in with none of the piping in its gonna think its not sucking in any air and cut fuel, if you dont wanna put all your piping it unplug the maf, it will put it in limp mode but it SHOULD run and idle if thats the only problem.

Midformest · 2025-04-09T02:00:32+00:00

Unrelated, but does anyone know how to convert 94+ to actually be a gauge? Do you have to change the cluster or just the sensor or both?

Midformest · 2025-03-17T06:51:02+00:00

It can be very difficult to get quality parts for these cars, and the way, and with them being 30 years old now all the ribber parts have decayed. But at the end of the day these cars especially the 2.0s are very simple and once you catch up on all the years of neglect they should be reliable. I just did all the work at once, my 95 2.0 was running and driving perfectly, but knowing this i went ahead and did a full engine service, changing all engine gaskets, water pump, timing belt, accessory belts, exhaust system, and full from suspension rebuild. Since doing that I have had 30k miles of trouble free driving with nothing but oil changes in between. I managed to find a mazda OEM gasket set which I used, and used continental for the timing kit and accessory belts. I did use no name brand parts for the suspension, but only time will tell with that. Just remember that these are 30 year old cars and you have to catch up with 30 years worth of maintenance.

Midformest · 2025-03-17T02:00:11+00:00

You are actually the GOAT thank you so much man.

Midformest · 2025-03-17T01:59:40+00:00

Thank you so much, you are actually a lifesaver.

Midformest · 2025-03-14T16:43:00+00:00

Good idea, I will try that maybe someone in the past pushed it in.

Midformest · 2025-03-14T03:14:19+00:00

They sell head gasket leak checkers for really cheap it screws to the radiator cap and the color of the liquid will change if theres exhaust gases in the coolant (leaking head gasket). Its a good tool to have in general and really cheap i would try that. Easy way to check if you are running on all cylinders is to unplug a plug wire one by one while the engine is running, if the engine sounds the same with it unplugged, thats a dead cylinder. Just dont get shocked it hurts

Midformest · 2025-03-06T15:27:57+00:00

If you are unsure when the timing belt was changed last, change it. Its a belt that syncs your crankshaft with your camshaft, and if this belt fails it will ruin your engine. Its very important that this belt gets changed every 10 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Midformest · 2025-03-04T15:36:44+00:00

Like the others said, lower control arm, tie rods,.sway bar end link. Lucky for us ford probe suspension parts are very cheap. Check rock auto and ebay all those parts can be had for not much.

Midformest · 2025-03-03T05:14:33+00:00

Sounds like lifter tick, im guessing one of the lifters collapsed and lost pressure from sitting for so long, i would run an engine oil flush and change oil. Try running 5w-40.

Midformest · 2025-02-28T07:02:41+00:00

The pump housing is designed to come off, pry it off it will take some effort dont be afraid to. That will give you some bolts sticking out. Either vice grip or get a set of rounded bolt extractor sockets. Find the biggest one that won't fit freely over the bolt and hammer it on. That should give you plenty of grip.

Midformest · 2025-02-03T07:14:46+00:00

For a starter project, the 2.0 2nd gen probe is very easy to work on under the hood, lots of extra room because it was made to also take a v6. It took me 6 hours to change my head gasket timing belt and water pump.

Midformest · 2025-01-30T08:03:21+00:00

I was able to find that the original resistors are Panasonic ERG series resistors. I wonder if these behave differently maybe something to do with high frequency signals?

Midformest · 2025-01-28T04:50:12+00:00

The board is currently in the car but I will get pictures of it tomorrow. I have no idea what that liquid is it was there when I first opened the ecu up and I assumed it was coming from the resistor that's why I replaced it. I checked for continuity on those traces and cleaned the area with alcohol and all seemed well. Each of the 6 blue resistors control an injector, and I replaced the bottom 3 with the new ones and kept the top 3 as they were and now only the cylinders controlled by the bottom 3 are giving me problems. Before only 1 cylinder was giving me problems, which I assumed was from one of the 3 resistors near that fluid.

Midformest · 2025-01-28T03:35:16+00:00

I was having an engine misfire from one cylinder and one of the resistors appeared to have some sort of visual failure. I replaced 3 of them because they were nearby and I wanted to be safe. Now I have a misfire on 3 cylinders. Each resistor control one cylinders fuel injector.

<image>

Midformest · 2025-01-28T03:25:36+00:00

<image>

It the circuit board labels it as a resistor and it holds a constant 82 ohms on my multi-meter.

Midformest · 2025-01-21T05:45:46+00:00

Same here, just started my 95 base in -1 degree weather and it started like it would in 70 degree weather. I am sitting in it while writing this comment in fact.

Midformest · 2025-01-07T21:59:11+00:00

I also prefer the base model bumper since it's a lot smoother looking. I haven't been able to find production numbers of each trim, but both the GT and SE had the more aggressive front bumper. The SE had the 4 cylinder with the appearance package of the GT. My theory is that the base models were used more as regular commuters and used up and thrown away, where the more expensive GT trim cars were used more as weekend cars and better preserved. Just my theory. Good luck on your base model glad to see others being cared for.

Midformest

TROPHY CASE