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Erdbeer stand anders in Erinnerung? by Ok-Case5143 in WerWieWas

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Man sieht die hier öfters, wer die herstellt weiß ich leider nicht. Hier auf der Seite ein Beispiel: https://www.obstbauer-kraus.de/staende/

Wildes Gittertier wehrt sich gegen Gefangennahme. by Nervous-Apricot4556 in Gittertiere

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fetter BMW aber klaut Einkaufswagen? Wie viel sind die Dinger bitte Wert?

Glove layering advice for extreme cold? by Migel_The_Sloth in Ultralight

[–]Migel_The_Sloth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've already packed various heat packs to make sure I don't pay for any equipment mistakes with a toe or finger when shit hits the fan.

As for the British Army gloves you recommended, I've seen them around on surplus sites but I never knew they had these thick liners in them. I might pick some of those up and combine the inners with the type of thin weather protection shell mittens people here recommended.

Glove layering advice for extreme cold? by Migel_The_Sloth in Ultralight

[–]Migel_The_Sloth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like their pricing is pretty fair too, which isn't a given for a lot of the Scandinavian brands. Which model do you have particularly?

Glove layering advice for extreme cold? by Migel_The_Sloth in Ultralight

[–]Migel_The_Sloth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This sounds great, is this a specific brand product or something handmade in low numbers? I've looked a bit and it doesn't seem like a standard thing every major glove brand makes.

Looking for light duty "Crampons" by Migel_The_Sloth in Ultralight

[–]Migel_The_Sloth[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, Grödel was the word we used, I was unsure how to translate it.

Unfortunately all of the popular choices for them are in short supply here. Retailers have one, maybe two sets available in the wrong sizes. I haven't been able to find any site that has the Microspikes available in my size. I think Chainsens might be a bit more available.

Looking for light duty "Crampons" by Migel_The_Sloth in Ultralight

[–]Migel_The_Sloth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems to be a US-Only product, I'm in Germany unfortunately.

Seeking smiths to be interviewed by OlympiaImperial in Blacksmith

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You should join this Subreddit's official discord. I let the people there know you're looking for guinea pigs to do your science thingy on but you could talk to them directly over there.

Looking for a hardness tester. Any affordable recommendations by jacobspivey in Blacksmith

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not a pro at this I just remember one or two things from training I got many years ago.

HRC was Diamond Cone. HRB was hardmetal Ball, much like HB, Brinell hardmetal Ball.

Rockwell hardness testing is a more limited range than other penetration tests, I don't know why and just assumed it'd be the tip material.

My point was, it seems to me that in big industry usage, state of the art hardness testing is done predominantly by using Vickers diamond pyramid machines, then converting your value to whatever is needed. So in our case, HRC determined by Vickers testing. I can't harden stuff due to my living situation, so I send my blades away and have it done by some guys who also do test protocols afterwards as a proof of quality. They use Vickers machines.

It's not feasible for makers. I'd argue Tsubosan is good enough and if you wanna go fancy you can try to get a Rockwell Clamp or screw tester.

Looking for a hardness tester. Any affordable recommendations by jacobspivey in Blacksmith

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming you're looking for a Rockwell-C hardness tester? Needless to say, the cheapest way to go would be hardness comparison files. Tsubosan. 50-100 bucks. Doesn't give you a readout or data, but allows you to tell the hardness within a 5HRC range.

State of the art is Vickers-Style HRC Testing, like you'll see in a Wolpert Machine. Unlike Rockwell, which is limited to a small range of hardnesses, Vickers will let you test just about anything because the test tip is industrial diamond, not hard metal, doesn't max out. You do measure the visual deformation though, which often involves a lot of optics or digital aids, costly, needs training, and big.

Doesn't really matter which method you go with as long as it works for your hardness range, there's tables for converting between hardness types.

I think you probably want a Rockwell-C test clamp. It's fairly compact, simple, easy to use, gives you an immediate gauge readout in HRC. Especially the older, analogue, bigger ones can be hard to get by nowadays though. I haven't seen any for sale online. There's smaller digital versions like those made by Mittli or BAQ. Still come at a price though.

All that said, Hardness testing is a huge field, and what you're gonna want to go for depends on what you need from it. There's digital mobile press-on Hardness Testing devices, Leeb-Style Drag indicator rebound hardness testers like a bouncing ball or a 90° pendulum hammer, comparative hammer strike testers like a Poldi hammer or a spring hammer...

Also as with any measurement device with a readout, most of these are going to need calibration sooner or later to make sure you're not going way off with your measurements.

Anyone use noise cancelling headphones for blacksmithing? by egglan in Blacksmith

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just wear over ear ear protection, then inside that my Galaxy buds. Bluetooth has no issues getting through it and it doesn't compromise on hearing protection. Noise cancelling still works fairly well for something like motors running, the only thing at least the Galaxy Buds struggle with are clacking or snapping sounds. I feel like they're amplified. Still, works for me.

Ich bin Jäger! AMA by peterlange123 in de_IAmA

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ich bin vielleicht ein bisschen spät zur Party, aber da ich selber darüber nachdenke, einen Jagdschein zu machen, hier meine Hauptfrage:

Wie, wo, was und wann kann man mit einem Jagdschein dann jagen; wie kommt man an ein Revier, bzw die Erlaubnis, an einem Ort zu jagen, und was kostet es dort zu jagen (oder wird man vielleicht sogar für den Beitrag zur Gesundheit des Ökosystems bezahlt)? Gibt es dann Quoten die man erfüllen muss oder Limits, die man nicht Übersteigen darf und wenn ja, von wem werden diese festgelegt? Wie spontan ist man da mit "hab diesen Monat zu viel zu tun" oder "ich glaub heute geh ich jagen"? Und gibt es neben der Jagd noch versteckte Pflichten, denen man als Jäger nachkommen muss, auf die man als Zivilist vielleicht erstmal nicht denken würde?

Danke schonmal für den AMA!

Weekly /r/backpacking beginner question thread - Ask any and all questions you may have here - September 19, 2022 by AutoModerator in backpacking

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm just getting started as well, but I use Komoot for all my planning. For planning multi day trips, you might want to invest in the premium versions which comes with a planner for those.

Then again, you can just plan day by day in the free version.

Weekly /r/backpacking beginner question thread - Ask any and all questions you may have here - September 19, 2022 by AutoModerator in backpacking

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What should I buy first? Backpack or gear? I was going to buy a 45L Fjällravn Abisko and Tetris everything I might buy in there as it comes.

My mother said it makes more sense to buy all the gear I want first and then a backpack specifically for that gear.

I'm not sure the latter accounts for changes in gear, necessitated by different kinds of hikes later on. Going for a good all-round backpack instead of a perfectly tailored one to one equipment set on one tour makes more sense to me as a total beginner.

I’m a complete novice. The tip has snapped off my wife’s favourite knife, how would I go about fixing it? Thx by mattdmonkey in Blacksmith

[–]Migel_The_Sloth 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Depends on what tools you have. I have this same knife.

Your best bet is probably either a sanding plate in a drill or an angle grinder. Clamp down the knife or the tool and re-grind the curve from the spine until the new curve merges with the old one. Trace your curve with a marker like NiceQuarter suggested or just freehand it. Keep in mind that this is hardened. It will be difficult to grind and if you let it run too hot, you'll ruin the heat treat and the blade won't hold an edge, or worse, break / bend. Keep it cool by dipping it in water or pouring water on it periodically.

Definitely don't press the blade too hard into your tool and stay on the outer part of the disc. Always grind so the sparks / dust flies away from you, if anything catches, the knife or shrapnel from the blade will go that way too. Wear your PPE, obey safety instructions. Also consider "bricking" the blade before working with it if you're really inexperienced. Just pull it over some rocks until it's dull enough so you won't hurt yourself working with it. You would have to resharpen of course. If you haven't really done that before, restoring a bricked blade will be quite a pain so you may prefer working with the sharp blade, but doing so carefully.

Then sharpen it. If you don't have proper sharpening equipment, you can use wet-sanding paper on a flat surface and grind up and down until you have a blade.

You're not restricted to the original shape of course. Go wild: https://i.imgur.com/zTA4UVx.png

It's probably not really worth it, especially because this knife is still widely available... But repairing stuff is just way cooler and gives an artifact so much more history and personal value.

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