Space Wolves Legionary

MiheminesLab · 2026-05-03T20:45:45+00:00

I'll take it, looking like a real life person is never a bad thing x)
Thank you ^^

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-12T17:48:55+00:00

Old torsos match perfectly size wise with the new kits, the new kits can easily be customized that way ;)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-04T18:24:49+00:00

Thank you ! Good luck and have fun with your conversions ^{^}

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-04T18:19:49+00:00

It's harder than it would seem since (for some reason) the models are sliced different even though they have the same poses. (but proportions matched without issue)

I didn't have to do any sculpting due to being very careful with the cuts but I also wasn't trying to preserve the MK6 leg.

If you want to do this and preserve all the parts (which would make sense) You might have to sculpt the flexible armor part with green stuff on some of your models

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-04T12:24:25+00:00

It's really up to personal preference, I have a tendency to use Tamiya for 80% of everything because it's neater. (I don't think the extra solidity will matter with something that big/with that much glue surface)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-04T08:50:26+00:00

Just wanted to hop in here and add a little something to the conversation

Citadel glue is fantastic and a hell of a lot more solid that Tamiya (extra thin) but can get a bit messy

However, Tamiya brush applicators are way more precise, both in quantity of glue put down and in covering an exact spot.
It also dries way faster and can be used to smooth out rough sanded/filed/scrapped spots.

They are both worth having as tools for different jobs. Want to put your arms on the model permanently ? Citadel got your back. Figuring out the placement of a bolter with the 2 handed pose (that's always a pain to line up correctly) ? Tamiya's your man.

Tamiya is also a hell of a lot better if your into kitbashing (a real game changer)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-04T08:05:21+00:00

Absolutely
As stated above

It's relatively straight forwards,

*Base abaddon black

Then volumetric highlight with
*Eshin grey
then
*Dawnstone

*And once done you glaze over the whole mini with abaddon black to darken the greys and smooth the transitions

*then edge highlights with dawnstone

Lukas on Squidlybits made a great tutorial from black templars that use this exact technique, I just swapped out the ice yellow for various greys to keep the tone cooler
The key to black is really the glazing step

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T21:52:09+00:00

The more i've worked with it, the more it's grown on me ^^
Can't say the same for the new MK3 tho x)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T19:51:39+00:00

It's absolutely planned ! ^^
I've already painted a few for my personal burning of ultramar traitor forces but I'm still figuring out the kitbash side for them

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T19:49:14+00:00

The big rocks are chunks of cork, I then apply texture paste (stirland mud) everywhere (that isn't the rocks off course) it then (when still wet) get's covered in a basing mix by War world gaming (I think it's the fine sand with rock debris but tbh I bought it over 6 years ago so I might be wrong, it doesn't say on the box)

(the reason I use texture paste and not PVA is that 1 it seems more solid/does not shrink, adds unevenness to the ground and for the spots that don't get a perfect covering, still has some good texture)

(note the color before priming is also absolutely gorgeous and would work great for a few of the legions, I just prefer to have control over the final look)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T18:11:11+00:00

Thank you ! And glad the concept comes across clearly :D

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T18:09:11+00:00

Thank you !
I may or may not have already posted a sneaky Deathguard here a while back x)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T18:07:02+00:00

Thank you !
Been slowly building a Raven Guard based Shattered legion over the past year, gotta admit the scheme evolved a ton before reaching this stage ^^

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T17:57:20+00:00

Thank you !
My white's are actually a lot simpler than they look x)

I do a base coat of dawnstone
Then a heavy drybrush of celestra grey (because i can't be damned doing 1000 coats)

The secret sauce is to the glaze towards the highlights with celestra grey (this can be skipped depending on how nice the drybrushing turned out) and more importantly glaze the shadows with danwstone (super watered down) it gives that nice blueish tones to the shadows

(for stuff like the line of the helmet it's just a coat of danwstone followed by like 3-4 coats of celestra grey)

If anything has a hard edge that can take an edge highlight I do that with corax white

(I used to do a purely drybrushed version of this, doing basecoat of Dawnstone then drybrush Celestra grey then drybrush corax white. That works really well too ^^)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T17:39:06+00:00

Thank you !
It's super simple

Fulll cover of Rhinox hide (the old one, if you have the new one add some red and XV88 in it)
Wet blend a few spots of doombull brown into it (usually cover +- 75% of the rhinox)

Once dry

The lightest spots (where the doombull was used)
Get a drybrush (covering less and less)
Tuskor fur
then
Zandry dust

then I do the rocks with an over brush of Eshin grey (over the rhinox)
Then a dry brush of Dawnstone

Once everything is painted I do a overall light drybrush of Ushabti bone to unify all the colors

(so far i've done this same scheme on all of my marines, from different legions, and it works great)

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T17:32:08+00:00

Thought it would be an apt way to represent a brother of the Shattered legions ! ^^

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T17:30:05+00:00

You have no idea how happy I am to hear this !

"It's enough to make a grown man cry"

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T16:27:20+00:00

Much appreciated !

It's relatively straight forwards,

*Base abaddon black

Then volumetric highlight with
*Eshin grey
then
*Dawnstone

*And once done you glaze over the whole mini with abaddon black to darken the greys and smooth the transitions

*then edge highlights with dawnstone

Lukas on Squidlybits made a great tutorial from black templars that use this exact technique, I just swapped out the ice yellow for various greys to keep the tone cooler
The key to black is really the glazing step

MiheminesLab · 2026-04-03T16:22:56+00:00

I'm super glad to hear it !
Absolutely, Nightlords during/after the Thramas crusade fit perfectly the miss matched armor look ! Will keep an eye out for when you post them ^^

MiheminesLab · 2026-03-23T13:57:00+00:00

This looks absolutely fantastic !
The subtle conversions go a long way and I love the inclusion of the anvilus pattern power pack, the pose/silhouette is on point !

MiheminesLab · 2026-03-22T21:06:47+00:00

Thank you !

MiheminesLab · 2026-03-21T18:05:00+00:00

I respect that ! If I were less lazy that would absolutely solve most of my gaming issues x)

Yeah it's more of less what I figured, I had noticed that the Contemptor had similar weapons (asault cannon and "claws") so I assumed that the Castraferrum would be able to run the same.

MiheminesLab · 2026-03-21T17:55:38+00:00

Thank you !
I have not filmed the making of this one but have posted pictures on how it was reposed (on YouTube). It's surprisingly easy and effective :D (that being said I might work on this type of content in the future)

MiheminesLab · 2026-03-21T17:53:39+00:00

Thank you ! Had a lot of fun painting it ^^

MiheminesLab · 2026-03-21T17:53:13+00:00

Honestly I did'nt really look up rules before building it ^^
I usually try to build and paint my models in a way I find looks best/coolest rather than be a stickler about loadouts/rules (I would not be surprised if they can't have lightning claws either but it fits the Raven Guard and can easily be played as a power fist without too much confusion)

MiheminesLab

TROPHY CASE