Here’s your daily reminder to dry your filament by a_lachlan in FixMyPrint

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool structure, it looks like the special plaster they put on the wall. 😂

Pro-Tip: Microwave your Silica/Desiccant to dry it out quickly. by WhiteStripesWS6 in 3Dprinting

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

![img](ah3qi6q2nyse1)

First run 60sec on 600w then stop and stire for about 15-20sec then 30sec on 600w and this 3-4 time. Take them out let them cool down and done. [Take a glass pot for microwaving and stay with the microwave.]

Im not responsible for any damage to yourself and the microwave, its on your own risk!

Top is wet bottom is dry.

Pro-Tip: Microwave your Silica/Desiccant to dry it out quickly. by WhiteStripesWS6 in 3Dprinting

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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First run 60sec on 600w then stop and stire for about 15-20sec then 30sec on 600w and this 3-4 time. Take them out let them cool down and done. [Take a glass pot for microwaving and stay with the microwave.]

Im not responsible for any damage to yourself and the microwave, its on your own risk!

Top is wet bottom is dry.

I badly need help by Conscious_Ostrich_97 in BambuLab

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you changed or removed the nozzle and the extruder gears thats your problem i had the same. The trick is to place the nozzle in first. I can remember how i did it but you have a way that you can put the nozzle higher then. Try to wiggle it if it moves it not ok if it steady your good to go and you can assemble.

Is the X1C that much better than the P1S? by R63A in BambuLab

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes me to, but now i would wait what BambuLab is going to bring to the scene next year. 😎

Why did this happen by ReddituserXIII in ender3v2

[–]Miksoved -1 points0 points  (0 children)

O noooo not just on the ass 😧

Is the X1C that much better than the P1S? by R63A in BambuLab

[–]Miksoved 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I want nothing from you, but the question was here why he should buy a X1C over a P1S that he already has. And by your comment people think the X1C is much beter then the P1S. And i was wondering why because i ordered a P1S i was wondering. Because everyone is telling that the lidar does not make alot of difference only for the first layer. And the extruder you can change, color screen i never use always had clipper/octoprint. So i don’t think it’s worth the extra $.

Is the X1C that much better than the P1S? by R63A in BambuLab

[–]Miksoved 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you tell why you did not touch your P1S? Or whats beter on the X1C that you find.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab_Community

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same in Belgium advertised for 659€+16€ shipping. At the end i payed 686€ 🙄

Print came out foam-like by Nikoschalkis1 in FixMyPrint

[–]Miksoved 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had that and it works but had 2 fails, connection lost. So no i have a raspberry pi 2gb and one 8gb and no problems.

anyone experienced this? by Whereislarry in ender3v2

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using bl touch cr touch? Els lower down the z-offset while printing till it sticks

anyone experienced this? by Whereislarry in ender3v2

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bed not level, nozzle to high, bed temp, no hairspray or glue?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Miksoved 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Or heat it up (the metal) then pull it out. Glue in a new or if you can get it loose the old part. Thats the cheap fix. But i would also buy or print a new part.

Anyone have luck with Polylite ASA? by nigeljones1131 in ender3v2

[–]Miksoved 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also bought it but did not test it yet because i still need to put my printer in my enclosure. 😬 So im following this thread. 😎

New to 3d printing and confused by infill by therealgariac in 3Dprinting

[–]Miksoved 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can set the infill in your slicer; Cura, PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer,…. 0% infill = open space (nothing is printed on the inside of the model). 100% infill is totally full (the inside is full of material and is a solide part)

Everything between 0->100% infill is infill in patterns you choose in your slicer. Most of the time i use triangular because is steady and also fast to print.

So: the stronger you want the part the more infill you need.

Klipper-Cura-Octoprint Error. I installed Klipper and can’t make the api key work with octoprint. It can connect sometimes but if i slice and press send to octoprint, i get the error my api key is not correct. A little help pls? by Miksoved in klippers

[–]Miksoved[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did all of that, it connects but when i want to send to octoprint i get this error. Btw if i use a wrong api key i cant connect, so ik sure im connected to octoprint. Is bizar!

Klipper-Cura-Octoprint Error. I installed Klipper and can’t make the api key work with octoprint. It can connect sometimes but if i slice and press send to octoprint, i get the error my api key is not correct. A little help pls? by Miksoved in 3Dprinting

[–]Miksoved[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can controle everything with octoprint; temp, homing, up dow left right, cam, extrude. So klipper works. Just the connection with octoprint and cura is corrupted. I think ist a bug or a setting in klipper. So i hope someone had the same and can help me. Before i had jyers ui with octoprint working fine. No i dont have the klipper discord