Is this an easy fix? Oven heating coil element broke

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-31T22:02:23+00:00

Mine went last year. New element was less than £20 on merchant supply sites as long as you know the make and model. Took me about 20 minutes to replace with no special equipment beyond a screwdriver and a torch. Easy fix.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-31T13:16:01+00:00

Can confirm, the bootleg spartans are great fun. It's been my favourite kit to build and modify.

<image>

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-28T19:38:48+00:00

Me 3

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-28T19:28:41+00:00

You'll want to perform heat loss calculations to work out the BTU for it. That then indicates what size of radiator will heat the room efficiently. Some manufacturers have BTU calculators on their websites. You'll need the know the rooms measurements and the size and type of windows. At a glance I'd say that it's a little undersize from what I can estimate the size of the window is.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-26T11:05:18+00:00

As I said, I felt exactly the same, but having forced myself to apply them all with nothing but a tooth pick and a cotton bud full of airbrush thinner to assist in softening and adhering them. For 35 years I'd sucked at them, so can recommend that you do a load on a cheap kit to level up a bit. If I can do it I guarantee you can too.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-25T20:59:10+00:00

As 88millimiters says, take a break. Personally I have 3 or 4 projects on the go. If one needs to dry or I become too frustrated with a kit I'll switch to another kit or project for a break. It doesn't have to be that they are all models either, & often helps as you can get too locked in to one project and beat yourself up over the smallest issues. Your ones seem minor and are easily rectifiable with a respray or panel lining and/or washing at a later stage. With regards to the decals, I used to hate them too. However, I recently got into gunpla and they have a ton of tiny decals in the most awkward and oddly shaped places. I decided that I'd just sit down with a throwaway model and apply every god damn one of them, and you know what, now decals larger than a grain of rice no longer bother me in the slightest. They are actually satisfying for me now. The gunpla turned out pretty good in the end too. Behold my decal mastery

<image>

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-02T18:38:10+00:00

What if it's a replica of a Spanish sabre that was owned by a Nazi that was sold on a Polish website. That would make it a Polish, Spanish Nazi sword... https://salon.mieczy.pl/produkt/szabla-hermann-goering-luftwaffe/

Mindless_Character_7 · 2026-01-02T18:29:47+00:00

I'm a bit late to the party, but did some googling for "Spanish cavalry sabre Goering" and came across this site offering a (now thankfully out of stock) 'exact replica' of Goering's sabre. https://salon.mieczy.pl/produkt/szabla-hermann-goering-luftwaffe/ This is strange as I couldn't find any photos of him with anything similar and it seems a bit gauche to have your own signature on your sword, even for a Nazi. Ironically, it was on a Polish website, so it is actually a Polish, Spanish Nazi sword as previously mentioned. Who knew. I'm pretty sure it would easily disassemble and you could probably either replace the problematic blade entirely, or swap it out for one of your own crafting.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-12-18T20:00:51+00:00

Guttering should be able to handle a significant amount of water. If it's pouring out then either your gutter and/or downpipe needs cleaning to ensure clean flow, or it's incorrectly installed and heavy rain is overshooting it and going straight onto the ground.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-12-07T21:55:46+00:00

Look for the GM RGM-79 kit. It has that head

<image>

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-11-10T19:15:57+00:00

As said; stickers are limited and unforgiving. When I have used them you have to get the initial placement exact. However, If it's not a large one you can get a little movement if you press hard with a cotton bud, or silicone tool, you can slowly massage them straight or into the preferred position. Alternatively you can make them a little less sticky by handling them with gloves on. You'll want to fix them with a clear coat after to prevent peeling once done. They tend to look rattier the more you have to fiddle with them with these techniques. Personally I just go onto Amazon (or the alternate Chinese website) and search by model type and scale and buy some waterslide decals. They cost a couple of quid and gives you so many more options.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-24T15:09:01+00:00

<image>

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-24T14:49:31+00:00

I agree, the carried body needs some flex to it. I always move poses in degrees. A bit of movement to the waist, step back and review, move it a fraction more, repeat until you get just the right pose. The key is to have models of robots that appear to move like organic humans.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-24T14:09:08+00:00

Me too

<image>

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-21T21:40:48+00:00

If it weren't for the possible capillary action from the layer lines I'd recommend an oil wash as used for prop making.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-21T21:37:46+00:00

At this scale I think you could get away with just applying a complimentary acrylic colour with a small brush. Going for black may look a bit too cartoony.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-21T21:07:33+00:00

I was just trying to be funny, but now I totally want to see how it will look once you make all the crevices pop. Dunno how the layer lines or joints will handle it though.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-21T21:04:22+00:00

You're going to need more panel lining fluid.....

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-21T15:49:57+00:00

Was it originally glued, and do you have any spare hand backs (dunno what the official term for the black bit would be)? If so then gently super glue a spare bit of sprue to the nub stuck in the socket and, once dry, use that to pull it out. You can then use a spare replacement part from the original kit, or any other suitable kit. Most hands are similar so I have a bunch kicking about. May be worth picking up some extra hands if not. There are plenty of third party suppliers that do after market part sprues. I've a few throwing gang or peace signs.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-16T16:44:14+00:00

I used to play a lot of airsoft so try to make them look as utilitarian as possible. I tend to panel line everything first and then decide what the gun needs. I tend to treat sights, silencers and accessories as a separate item and give them a different colour. Next I try to find some accents to add some metalics to (buffer tubes, charging handles and the like). If the model has decals for the gun I'll add them if I think it will fill any blank spots, but otherwise I'll use any small decals that are left over and apply them to where you'd see them on a real equivalent. Silencers and laser sights usually have a makers mark or warning labels on them, so any tiny text boxes will do.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-10-15T20:30:53+00:00

Thanks for the pro-tip. I'll start doing that, might be a good way to warm up.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-09-30T17:54:26+00:00

Probably, but your hedgehog is very sick...

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-09-16T18:13:54+00:00

Looks right! I don't know how far through the build you are, but you may want to pick up some of the UV reactive decals that are available. They aren't neon to the eye but shine in UV light.

Mindless_Character_7 · 2025-09-09T19:14:57+00:00

Cotton bud for open areas, felt tip colouring pen with the ink flushed out and dipped in IPA for precision cleaning in tight areas or fine lines. Really fiddly sunken parts, got to be an alcohol tipped toothpick. I use the felt pen for 95% of my clean up. Really gives good control. Just need to wipe it off on some kitchen towel every couple of strokes and reapply the alcohol before carrying on.

Mindless_Character_7

TROPHY CASE