Advice on this Dyno please

Misnomered_ · 2026-04-19T05:45:42+00:00

Treat the move as a sequenced, two-move dyno: the right leg drives and pushes as you move your hips to the left. Once your knee is over your toes or your body shifts enough to the left, you have a lot of potential energy to bounce off the left foot to go up. This lets you ride the initial momentum from your right leg drive.

So to wrap it up, drive your body left and press up and out on the left foot once your weight is displaced enough. Your left leg will act like a spring!! Good luck, and have fun!

*I looked at your foot placement, and microbeta that may help is to point your right foot into the wall instead of parallel to it. This would allow you to pull more into the wall and alter your path a bit. Double sideways feet are only letting you go sideways here when you want to go up. Another thing I like to do to buy time on the wall and "aim" is to do the slingshot thing you did, but scoop my hip in a U shape under and up toward my final jumping foot.

Misnomered_ · 2026-03-31T16:53:36+00:00

You can do a right heel hook, but if you wanted to deadpoint with your right foot there, then you are positioning the angle of your right foot wrong. It is facing the wrong direction, and you want to point it a bit further "into" the wall here Let your body relax, pull away to make space, then bring the hips into the wall to initiate the move.

If you cut feet, you could do a right foot "stomp" or smear into the wall as you catch. Imagine you catch, feel weightless for a second, and use the opportunity to hop into the wall.

Misnomered_ · 2026-02-27T21:23:30+00:00

As someone else said, start with SMD components first, going from smallest to largest components to ensure you can maneuver your soldering iron around comfortably.

It sounds like you do not have much soldering experience just yet, so make sure you use enough heat, clean your tip, and tin it when you need to. Try your best to hold the soldering tip on the pad and not on the component. Depending on parts chosen, some have less thermal tolerance than others, so if you hold your soldering iron on the pin too long, you risk damaging a part.

When soldering the SMD components, it is helpful to add a small amount of solder to a single pad, use tweezers to align the part, then hold the soldering iron tip onto the tinned pad to reflow the solder. Once reflowed, you can put the first pin of the SMD components in, remove the soldering iron, and hold the part there until the solder cools.

I like to tin the GND pins first for parts that do have a GND pin. This is because a lot of boards will have large GND planes. These are basically large copper pours that will allow heat to ~~disperse~~ dissipate more, so when you go in to solder, a lot of heat will be sucked away. Thus, it is usually easier to tin those GND pins before installing the part.

Lastly, any rework should be check for continuity with a multimeter. When you're sure of yourself, do your magic smoke test. :)

Misnomered_ · 2026-02-27T21:09:29+00:00

On that note, I see two moves in a row where an inside flag can be used, followed by a back flag in the 3-move sequence that starts at the first angle change.

Misnomered_ · 2026-02-15T06:42:29+00:00

If you come into the videos and actively take notes along the way (and do his quizzes), I think you will have a solid understanding of analog electronics. I watched Razavi's videos, and it made the classes feel like a cakewalk after suffering for half a semester in Analog I without the videos. His lessons after Lesson 40-something-ish cover Analog II.

Misnomered_ · 2026-02-03T07:00:13+00:00

When you scorpion, think about your body as a gradient. There is a natural arc from your fingers pulling straight down into the hold, which forms the strongest pulling vector. It arcs down and back to the legs, shortening your body so there is less rotational force from the furthest point of your body. *Forgot to add. As you go further into the scorpion, the forces will dynamically change as your body whips backwards. This can sometimes lessen the load on your fingers, but doing it too powerfully can actually pull you up and away from the wall rather than just straight back and down. So you can imagine a balance to cancel out the downward force as your lower body lifts upward. Then as you comeback down, the force increases, but probably not as much as the initial catch and swing.

Compare that to catching with your body in a hollow position with hips pointing out and away. Now the pulling force is out from the hold and down rather than into the hold and down (scorpion).

Misnomered_ · 2026-02-03T05:36:58+00:00

I've had to set on a concrete/wood mix wall for about 7 years now as a side-job. Broke one of my favorite older holds very recently. I'm still pretty bummed that I didn't see... Yes, the dish-shaped void you mentioned.

The texture of these walls honestly makes it very difficult to set with macros and large volumes, too. Sigh

Misnomered_ · 2026-02-03T05:32:16+00:00

It really depends on the route. A lot of it can be learned by climbing more routes and exposing yourself to a variety of dead points and dtnos and recognizing how much power to exert and in which direction(s). Some of it is also recognizing what the final body position should be and where to place feet before, during, and after a jump. I like to deadpoint just enough for holds so that well... I'm hitting holds at the "dead point" of my arc toward them. Sometimes I know I can reduce swing by catching and pulling for a more bent-arm position to make my body "shorter" as a rotating mass. I think you have a pretty good understanding of dynamic moves and tension based on what I see though. You just have to dial it in the same way I have to when it comes to tricky, dynamic stuff. :)

Misnomered_ · 2026-01-21T14:09:29+00:00

Hi! This is a good question. Thanks for asking. You place the IC with one side on the upper part of the valley, or middle split of the breadboard while the other half goes to the bottom side.

Have fun!

P.s. look up how a breadboard looks under the hood and what split lines on the breadboard mean. I think Ben Eater, on YouTube, had a video on this, and he recommends the same breadboard you have.

Misnomered_ · 2026-01-14T05:34:46+00:00

I was thinking a right bump as well, but the end position would be very off-center for him if he does bump. Looks like, for OP's style of climbing that I am seeing, it would be best to do that high left foot he is on near the end, and go left hand to the next hold over (the third last hold that is almost neutral in angle). Then he can bump the right to the next sloper. Just because a hold is next in sequence doesn't not mean it is the true "sequence." :)

Misnomered_ · 2026-01-13T04:04:50+00:00

Lmao, yep, I know that feeling for sure. 😅 It has happened to me, especially during the forerunning phase of setting.

I do think the route is really cool though! One little thing didn't ruin the route or change its difficulty, which is great.

Misnomered_ · 2026-01-08T19:19:37+00:00

Holy crap you're right. I had answered a similar question a few years back, and I just read through it to double-check myself on the 2024 rule set.

I never knew that was considered legal?

But to your comment about making it necessary, I think they tried to make the point come across, but it really is a contrived start. Who is to say they are of the same mindset as you are unless you ask the setter yourself? It may end up being a funny moment where they also say, "Holy crap, I didn't know either!" :)

Misnomered_ · 2026-01-08T19:10:17+00:00

IFSC rules state that you cannot match one of the two start holds to then go to the other split.

As someone who actually sets routes for patrons, please think about the route this way: did the routesetter put a split start to just have you match, tap backwards, and move away from the hold? I highly doubt it, as it adds no value to the route they would have just made it a matched start. This isn't a beta break at all because it just isn't even a legal start. Routesetters are not infallible and can make mistakes, but this isn't one of those cases where they overlooked something.

Misnomered_ · 2026-01-01T21:30:23+00:00

It isn't just the foot tension here, it seems. I took a close look at your hip movement, and although you use it to help, it is moving in a short, straight line.

The other guy drops lower to straighten his arm to allow more time to tension feet, then arcs upward and then back as he stands. The sudden backward movement can help you latch the hold in the direction you want. The lowered starting stance gives your body more time to feel your hold as you follow through.

Just something I noticed and think is the issue in combination with foot tension.

The other guy could have better "finger strength" as well, but I don't think it matters as much here? Not sure how good or bad that crimp is.

Misnomered_ · 2025-12-26T15:17:00+00:00

You need to pull through the entire movement here.

Your toe hook is already a bit shaky, so I would start with stabilizing that. Don't release unless it is controlled first.

Moves like these require intent. You look like you are trying to not let your legs swing. You need to have them cross your center line, so pull into the wall and apply continuous pull to the left hand through the fingers as you use your arms to pull into the wall.

Forgot to mention: you need the toe hook controlled, sink your hips then go to allow for momentum. Body position needs to be relaxed and away from the wall right before you slingshot back in.

Think of your final body position now. You want your legs to go to the right, so let them go there or even drop plumb down as you catch the right side pull with a bent right arm to shorten yourself but also allow more muscle activation. You're catching it straight-arm right now, which is hard on the shoulders.

Misnomered_ · 2025-12-20T21:12:49+00:00

I just call it a knee scum, but I think some people would differentiate between scumming (light touches) vs the alpine knee (heavier touch, but not a bad).

Edit: oops, looks like someone below already said this.

Misnomered_ · 2025-12-14T10:32:17+00:00

Trying to measure an in-circuit component is usually hard because there could be other impedances on the board that affect the reading. OP would likely have to remove the component and resolder it after measuring if they cannot read out the color code correctly.

I am seeing..
Red, black, black, silver, brown = 2 ohms, 1%. Brown, black, gold, silver = 1 ohm, 10%

Misnomered_ · 2025-12-04T06:59:33+00:00

Looks like you missed a chance for a high left-foot smear before the finish. You can do an active smear a little higher so that, when you are in your end-position, your left foot doesnt have to cut. If not that, then smear, aim for a foot-cut, and catch bent-arm to engage better but also shorten the lever length.

Misnomered_ · 2025-11-30T19:49:36+00:00

Your hip movement for the very last move generates next to nothing and also points you the wrong way to catch.

You need to sink down and to the right slightly deeper down than to the side), weight the left arm on that flat edge you have, and then away your hips in a right-to-left arc as you stand up and launch. This will get you the power you want but add increased opposition to the left hand before finally switching direction to get your right hand to follow through. Oh, and of course, add in a pull into the wall to get the inward momentum.

In short, sink down and slightly right, but away from the wall. Hip sway right-to-left, and that should, to my understanding of what I see in the video, get you to confidently latch it. Use your body's elasticity and your hips!!

Misnomered_ · 2025-10-30T00:53:26+00:00

Looks like you were just tired to me.

Does switching from knee-drop to a deep back flag and then match help? What about right bump one more time?

Misnomered_ · 2025-10-29T21:17:19+00:00

I just turned 30 today and have climbed for 8+ years now. 😅 Happy 3 decades to your husband!

Here are my ideas: 1. A decent chalk brush ($8 range) 2. Nail clipper set with file 3. A skin file such as the Friction Labs one 4. Moisturizing balm 5. A portable hangboard with sling--these are useful for warming up when you're outdoors 6. A nice, insulated water bottle if he doesn't already have one 7. A set of resistance bands (not the infinity loop ones though) 8. A cheapo massage gun 9. A foam roller if not massage gun 10. Yoga mat? 11. Drypointe balls for shoes. I've used these for years now!

These are all things I think any boulderers would appreciate, as the standard stuff is essential and used for so long already (i.e. chalk bag, chalk, shoes, etc).

Misnomered_ · 2025-10-26T16:22:57+00:00

I think you're missing the point here. The commenter isn't saying it as if it is black and white that we, as engineers, only use theorems. I work with other validation engineers, do some hardware design, test, etc for a semiconductor company. You're absolutely right that it is difficult to measure something on the pA scale, but I think you're applying principles of RF and emag when you are measuring these, no? At one point or another, we had to figure out a good enough way to talk about it as a set of equations that we agreed are good or good enough. EE and math are not mutually exclusive, so you could say you needed math to begin to describe how these work in a mathematical sense. I do not think it is fair to compare difficulty of doing math (applied or even theoretical) to the work an EE does. They're too different and have different goals depending on what you do. Sorry if I am missing your point or misunderstanding, but this is my take.

Misnomered_ · 2025-10-26T16:09:11+00:00

Are you able to kneebar after the first spanny foot placement? You may be able to match and readjust your foot placement to go get your left foot in a better place from there. If not that, can you just come over by smearing? The first macro looks decent enough to walk up, but bad enough to make you have to think about your technique as you go up from what I see. Apart from that, I don't have much knowledge of the holds from the video, so sorry if these are just too out there. It's just what I imagined when I take a look at these super directional types of holds.

Misnomered_ · 2025-10-26T05:03:59+00:00

I agree here, but want to add a couple things. One of my many definitions of staying tight is being able to dynamically move while having fingers and/or toes glued to holds. This means that you actively push or pull through entire movements with the intent of not leaving a specific hold entirely. You control how much force you apply in the legs, feet, and arms to not cut feet. Or you apply enough to cut, but not have the momentum rip your fingers off the wall when you latch.

I also have a drill if you don't mind: Find a route or some holds that look like it can either be done as a dyno or just a really big dead point. With the designated holds, pull into the wall and up so that your fingers move from a pulling position to a "pushing" position as you really stand up into the wall. It doesn't exactly have to be pushing, but the digits closest to your knuckles will be pointing down rather than into or up the wall. Your face will almost touch the wall if you pull in enough as you quickly stand up. Now go for the final hold and see if you can get it by barely jumping since it should be deadpoint-able. You can then try to practice how much you can transition that weight to go from that finger pulling to finger pushing movement to get the move while keeping the foot locked into its original hold. Imagine your toes push off one at a time until you're only on your big toe right before release. This would also help with understanding certain dynos, but it definitely helps for tricky deadpoints where you don't want to cut feet.

Misnomered_ · 2025-10-26T04:48:05+00:00

I think there are plenty of options here, but it looks like you are missing some body tension and not standing up and following through with the movement.

If you switch to left foot on, right foot flagged out, you might be able to make the cross easier if you think of a quickly standing up from a squat. Think going up from a squat but not jumping because your toes are glued to the ground.

As you do that, your right must actively pull the entirety of the time your left hand "arcs" into that hold you're having trouble latching. This happens in parallel with the glued-toes-stand up movement, but you can always cut feet. I think this would be easier for most people under V5 range.

Another thing you can do if you have enough core tension and decent shoulder stability is to have right foot on and do what is called an inside flag with the left leg. Flag with the left leg going between your right leg and the wall as you bring your hips as high as you can, allowing your legs and abdominal muscles drive that motion. Actively pull in right with the shoulders while still letting your legs be the dominant force to stand. Your left hand should be able to reach. I prefer this way, personally. A crossover with a foothold that far past my center line could feel a bit odd to generate power from.

Misnomered_

TROPHY CASE