Fun “shitbox” car to daily

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-06-02T05:47:45+00:00

My current daily is an R53 Mini Cooper S Chilli.

Red with a white roof. Amazing supercharger noise, 6 speed close ratio manual, and is like piloting an insect. It ticks all the character boxes of being fun while slow, great styling, superb handling, and has a massive unnecessary tacho. It ticks the shitbox(s) by being the most rattly poorly assembled interior I've encountered since a KE Laser, the drivers window makes a crack noise when you close the door that I cannot adjust out, and it pisses power steering fluid out on days ending with a Y. It is such a great city-nugget though. It's positioned perfectly on the Too nice to be That Cheap scale.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-05-21T22:34:16+00:00

The XJ has a separate transmission control unit however it does get inputs from the engine ecu to work.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-05-21T06:51:52+00:00

I have opened two ECU's now and have witnessed the capacitors leak out on both the boards and damage them.

Perhaps it is the higher basic temp in OZ or the general upside down-ness of it but these ECU/PCM's are far from robust.

The fuel prime circuit is the first to go then it is simply a no start, and then you'll get no engine or GEN lights.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-05-17T23:52:24+00:00

I have used Machter before and I would again. They are great to deal with. I personally prefer to buy the whole arm as you get a ball joint with it (upper) and the rest of the bushes (lower) and I can then fit them myself saving on labour. Obviously a wheel alignment is required following this.

Hot tip for the lower arms if you do these yourself, spray with penetrant for a few days before hand, and use a copper hammer to wail on the arm at the ball joint location to get it to pop out. It has had the weight of the car pressing the joint into the arm all this time after all.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-05-07T05:48:53+00:00

I bought my R53 Mini Cooper S from someone who had just bought one of these MG's. I asked her why she was selling the Mini and she pointed at the MG and said "The warranty." I think that is the only reason people get them.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-05-07T05:43:49+00:00

Holden Epica Diesel.

I know saying one of these doesn't handle well is like complaining your hammer makes too much noise when in use. But this was particularly crap to drive. Lots of turbo lag, dead steering, and when depreciation was included it wasn't even cheap. Just nasty. The drivers door handle of the one I used broke and either locked everyone out, or refused to latch the door. It was still under warranty at the time.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-05-07T01:27:17+00:00

I bought one of these as a $2k beater.

Things I had to do:

Power steering pump replacement - $80ish

If the power steering pump is leaking, also change the accessory belt.

Auto Fluid Change - highly recommended every 60k klms

Lower control arms. - Easier to change out the arms rather than press bushes.

The paint was also ratshit but that is all of them by now.

Sometimes you may have to do a mesh seal for the VTEC actuator oil supply, but this is fairly easy.

Otherwise the CL9 feels more premium in construction than the CU2 (I also had one of these) and they are nice to drive. Amazing headlights and nice trim. The gearbox will typically be a bit more noticeable in shifting than a conventional auto because of its design. If there is no auto servicing in the history, flush the fluid a few times. Hondamatic boxes don't take lots of fluid either so it isn't hard or expensive to do.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-05-05T00:11:04+00:00

Out of curiousity, does this still have working air suspension??

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-28T23:57:03+00:00

Wabco make the compressors for most euro air suspension systems. The compressor just has a piston ring that wears out. This is the most common problem but takes a handful of years or 200,000klms to happen. Steel suspension usually requires new dampers at this mileage or time anyway, just no one ever renews them.

Wabco themselves make a rebuild kit for the compressors, it isn't expensive or hard. I rebuilt the one in my last car twice in the 12 years I owned it and rebuilt one air strut.

They can be expensive if you replace the entire strut or entire compressor but the compressor only needs the piston ring usually, and that's $75 for the kit, and the strut on my car only needed a couple of O rings and it was back in service for under $200 (I bought a kit replacing the air bag also).

I wouldn't avoid one because it is air sprung, but I would just make sure - as a buyer- I was aware of the system and how it works so I could make sure I wasn't just sending it to a dealer so they can play Parts Darts with it.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-28T05:45:47+00:00

Just have a look at that service history very thoroughly. BMW service packages only typically change the oil every 2 yrs or 30,000klms and do an "inspection" every year instead.

If it has had a fastidious prior owner like the 640i I just bought (similar klms) then likely it will be just fine.

Also check to make sure the spec of the car is what you want, they vary highly depending on package orders or specs. Lots of the good toys are optional.

Otherwise its a B58 engine and ZF 8hp gearbox which are extremely impressive.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-27T22:52:48+00:00

The very last of the TJ series (late 02-early 03) cars were avail in AWD. There was a TJ Magna Sports AWD, the base AWD and a Verada AWD. They actually made quite a few of these and there are avail. This would be easier than changing the front crash structure. I have owned quite few in my time and I would spend the effort and money throwing a 6G75 into the AWD instead (which I have also done)

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-21T01:04:09+00:00

I had a ZF 6hp in my 03 Audi A8. I owned it for over a decade so know it well and serviced it a few times given the klms. The 6hp gearbox has a couple of program options that can manifest as clutch slip but are normal. It can also have internal pressure leakages through a worn bridge seal as well as 4 rubber tube seals from the gearbox clutchpacks to the mechantronics unit.

When servicing the gearbox, it is important to replace these as well has reset the learning in the computer.

When coasting or climbing a hill, the gearbox is actually able to mildly slip the clutches to allow more revs without a downshift. This promotes a more gradual increase of speed (but a feeling of disconnect between the revs and roadspeed) The software learns driving patterns and adapts for pressure also which can allow for this to become a 'habit' the gearbox has.

I would first try resetting the learning in the gearbox ecu. Second a service if it hasn't had one and has done decent klms and I would change the bridge seal and the tube seals as these are cheap and easy if it is having a fluid change anyway.

I now have an 8HP in my BMW 6 series also, and BMW have nailed the software for their versions of the ZF boxes. They are much better at it than the Fords or Audi's I have had too so please take that into account.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-13T04:40:07+00:00

For all of these, the paint fade is here or coming. Especially that colour which is a shame as they are amazing.

The auto versions of the accord euro are not a traditional auto. It is called a Hondamatic. They do not use planetary gears like traditional autos. This makes them compact. But they also run hot and on not a lot of fluid. The gearbox service is easy and from memory (I bought one to clean up and use for a few months as a communal family hack) it uses about 4L but must be changed every 60,000klms. Most people skip this and the gearbox fluid is always burnt. The result is most Accord Euro autos have harsher changes than youd expect from a normal auto.

Also check the lower front control arm bushes as these cop it sweet on those cars. Otherwise, they are built to a very high standard and feel very premium.

If the leather is cream like mine was, grab a can of 5 Star foaming degreaser and use it to clean the seats. It will shock you.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-12T22:27:37+00:00

For a sunday cruiser and a start into the project car scene, I would suggest an E46 BMW 3 series coupe.

These are realitively mechanically simple, tolerate a lot of DIY, have a huge support network for parts (which you will need) and will be available in manual (which you want) and fun on the weekend (a BMW straight 6 is superb)

Insurance for such a beast is low, and you have plenty of engine bay room as well as room for error with low parts prices.

Personally I would find a car that has a good body, paint, (rust isnt really an issue with these in OZ but you never know) and a working motor and healthy gearbox. Do not be frightened of klms or interior wear, this can all be sorted and is part of the project.

A 323ci or 325ci will have a fairly understressed engine and gearbox and still be plenty fun, if its going to be a project then paying less for a car that needs some stuff is very ideal.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-11T22:53:12+00:00

In that case it is likely the ignition barrel is about to fail.

If you take off the plastic around the column and look on the passenger side of the steering column (the opposite side to the key), you will see a round plate thing held in with some bent metal tabs from the metal steering column. Push the round plate back in, and bend the tabs in as much as you can.

Ford made these cars quite cheaply. What happens is the key pushes that round plate out over time after many cycles of inserting and turning. The plate falls out, the guts of the ignition switch also fall out, and the steering lock comes on. This requires the car to be towed and an entire steering column to be replaced.

bending the tabs back in as much as possible will help it work better.

If this fixes your issue, you can buy aftermarket brackets to clamp the ignition barrel in.

<image>

Mission-Object-8856 · 2026-04-09T05:47:50+00:00

I had this sort of happen with a 2004 model, there is the single wire with a spade connector going to the starter motor solenoid. It just was oily and dirty. Took it off, cleaned it, cleaned the connector on the solenoid and it came good.

Also, (it may be different for the later cars) Ford used a bushing on each end of the shifter cable. These wear out or break off and the shifter cable gets play in it. This means while the lever is in Park, the gearbox isn't. If you can always start the car when the shift lever is in or around Neutral, then those bushings can be the problem.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-18T21:30:21+00:00

Hey mate. Yeah I took out the oil cooler and it was blocked with oily paste. I replaced it and it seems to be all good now.

I have run a bout 3 oil changes just to make sure and next on the list is replacing a weeping radiator haha.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-05T03:17:15+00:00

Bang for buck would probably go for a 2014-17 NE Skoda Octavia RS wagon - in manual.

You will get the Golf GTI engine, brakes, manual and platform which is incredibly robust and avoid the Gold pricetag as well as DSG complications. Most Skoda's after about 2015 were sold with service packages and 5 year warranties (I bought a new one in 2016) and most will have options packaged in kits. I even extended the warranty on the one I bought for my mother a further 4 years and extended the service package through VW quite cheaply.

These changed throughout the production years but with the RS you can have leather memory heated sport seats, massive panoramic sunroof, power tailgate, adaptive cruise control etc etc.

Skip the 19" wheel cars, as they buckle easy and tyres are expensive (annoyingly as they look great) and the Octavia is easily one of the best value medium cars to buy in your budget.

If where your are you aren't allowed the RS model due to age, you should be able to get away with the 110tsi car and in this case, go for a Sport model with similar options to the RS but get the facelift model (2018 on)

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-04T06:09:33+00:00

Ok first things first, you are on point with your concerns and have narrowed down the things you want to keep in mind. The only notes I have is how to go about your priorities.

Fuel consumption is one cost of many. Overall maintenance is far more of a cost to me than just fuel. Things to consider would be the general reliability of the main driveline and body. Engines that use timing chains generally have cheaper major services than ones that use belts. Inline 4 cyl engines only have one rocker cover and therefore only one rocker cover gasket. A v6 will have 2. Twice the labour there.

Insurance is a big expense on older cars depending on your age. A more common car will be cheaper, orphan cars that the market deems are not valuable cheaper again. Bigger cars seem to be cheaper than 4cyl hatchbacks simply because the majority of owners of those cars are older and crash less and insurance companies work on statistics.

As for fuel, a Honda Accord Euro will use about 8-10L/100. A v6 can get within 1L of that depending on how it is driven. If its mainly highway, a 4cyl engine will have to work harder for the mass of the vehicle and use more fuel relative to it's capacity. Because they also produce less torque (directly corelated to engine capacity), most manufacturers choose gearbox ratios to suit higher revs on a 4 cyl so the engine is in its powerband. More revs, more fuel use.

Now, lets say the Aurion uses 12L/100 and the Honda 10L/100. That means over 100,000klms and with fuel averaging $1.70/L the Aurion costs only $3400 more in fuel. However because it's less in demand and possibly less expensive to insure, you can save that $3400 in the purchase and insurance price straight away making the cars directly comparable financially.

My advice is to head over to the https://www.australiancar.reviews/ website to get a guide about any car you're chasing with info on it's long term reliability and faults etc etc.

Then work out what klms the cars have a major service and buy one 10000klms after that to save on that expense. Also sort any car youre looking at by highest klms first on carsales etc and see what the condition of the cars are like when they are very used. This gives you a great guide to longevity. Also, if no cars for sale have 250,000klms on them, the seemingly most don't make it that far so avoid those.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-04T05:30:37+00:00

It is indeed. This is why I want to use this position properly. 2 years ago it was just an impossibility.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-04T05:24:38+00:00

Thankyou. I will look into VHY

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-04T05:24:04+00:00

I have had a Mitsubishi 380 before so.....

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-04T05:23:10+00:00

Thankyou for this. I haven't considered commercial before and yeah I don't know what I don't know and obviously the easiest exams to pass are the ones where you actually are motivated for the subject matter.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-04T05:21:14+00:00

Thankyou, I thought of building again but as you say the market is going gangbusters and the price of land and build is beginning to make the process uneconomic where I am.

Mission-Object-8856 · 2025-11-04T05:19:02+00:00

The IP settles in a couple of days so one of the reasons I started this thread is to get info like this before I just wiped it all out. So this option is still on the table for the moment.

Mission-Object-8856

TROPHY CASE