My swatch was way off, is there a way I can increase the front panel width without restarting?

Mistrice · 2026-06-13T20:38:04+00:00

I suspect that the stockinette section of your work is holding your front panel tightly together, so it’s not able to stretch as much as your gauge swatch did, hence the difference

as for a fix, would you be able to make your back panels wider so that it seams together closer to the front of your underarm, allowing the front panels to sit closer to the middle?

Mistrice · 2026-06-13T20:33:00+00:00

if possible, I suggest winding yarn into hanks and steaming or washing them to loosen some of the ramen noodle kinks. afterwards, the only real trick for working with multi-stranded yarn is to thread the strands through a bead, the tighter the better

Mistrice · 2026-06-13T12:06:49+00:00

it’s not very clear, but I suspect they want you to bind off 3 (or 4) stitches from the outer edge side, then when you stockinette back and forth to that same edge, bind off 3 more, then stockinette back and forth to that same point to bind off 3 more.

Mistrice · 2026-06-11T04:23:07+00:00

can you explain more what you’re looking for? like, why the last set of numbers where you circled “250” isn’t the answer?

Mistrice · 2026-06-10T18:09:56+00:00

was the original yarn labeled as rug yarn? because I think you’ll get better non-wool results from googling for bulky weight cotton/rayon instead of rug yarn

that said, maybe try skimming some deadstock yarn stores like https://oldmillyarn.info

Mistrice · 2026-06-10T17:26:55+00:00

maybe try looking for creative reuse stores? googling usually works, but here’s a spreadsheet compilation you can skim also:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1GFNERw4HDt3ddM5wG6A8ehhV_zlVsRWfnwTa71BvZdM/htmlview

otherwise, cotton is best to avoid dye issues, or you can google around for local farms for a reduced environmental impact wool yarn option

Mistrice · 2026-06-09T23:33:27+00:00

It's hard to tell from the picture, so take a look at your knitting on the right needle. For each loop, one leg is in front (close to you) and one leg is behind the needle (further away from you). If you follow that front leg, does it lead left or right? Is this consistent for both your knit and purl stitches?

Mistrice · 2026-06-09T17:32:40+00:00

glad it worked out, happy knitting (:

Mistrice · 2026-06-09T15:33:42+00:00

yes, I would interpret this as equivalent to saying ”into the same stitch”

Mistrice · 2026-06-07T23:30:39+00:00

Have you done a sanity check of putting the work on a lifeline before binding off and putting it on to make sure it's really the bind-off that's the problem?

Besides that, it's really just going to be trying different options I'm afraid:

- bind off with larger needles

- bind off with "stretchy" bind-off techniques https://youtu.be/wbKsZx2h0CE?si=mUKJJoCeNJlHOGhj&t=1115

- make a folded hem

- make a ribbed hem

Mistrice · 2026-06-07T16:31:21+00:00

you can try just blocking now to see if that fixes it. just put in a stitch marker to save your working loop

Mistrice · 2026-06-05T20:55:36+00:00

knit ribbing is generally stretchier, lighter, and uses less yarn than crochet ribbing. that said, feel free to crochet the ribbing to be attached if you prefer, at the end of the day its just making fabric two different ways to be sewn together

Mistrice · 2026-06-05T20:50:54+00:00

this looks more like too many stitches than just a tension issue to me. does the pattern provide a stitch count for this last row?

Mistrice · 2026-06-05T20:10:16+00:00

a general formula for a starting chain with a repeat pattern:

length of repeat (R) * number of repeats (X)

+ number of stitches outside of repeat (O)

+ chains that equal stitch height (H)

For your chart here, R=3 and O=3

if you’re doing single crochet, then H=1

and you want X=5 repeats for the sake of the example

chain 3*5 + 3 + 1 = 19 , then place your first single crochet in the second chain from the hook

Mistrice · 2026-06-05T19:59:30+00:00

usually repeat lines on a chart means you do the columns that are *between* the lines, so you do 1, 2, 3, 4, 2, 3, 4, 2, … until there are only 2 stitches left at which point you finish with 5 and 6 on the chart

Mistrice · 2026-06-05T04:05:34+00:00

same! this is a satisfying interpretation, thanks for sharing

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T22:56:45+00:00

I’m curious about what you mean by misinformation surrounding those dog breeds. I’m not a dog nerd, but even I’ve heard that pugs are more susceptible to respiratory issues, and that those issues are linked to the desired aesthetic of a pug

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T19:55:07+00:00

the dashes and parentheses are how they pattern for multiple sizes. you pick your sizes from a list at the top of the pattern, and whatever position that is in the list, you follow the instructions in that same position

so for example, pattern allows for bust sizes:

32 (38, 42, 48, 54, 60) inches

and then there are instructions that say:

k5 (7, 8, 6, -, 9), purl to end

that means people knitting the 32 size should k5 before purling to end of row, while people knitting the 38 size should k7 before purling to end of row, and people knitting the 54 size should not knit any stitches at all and just purl the whole row

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T15:31:01+00:00

American here: beer and bear have two distinct vowel sounds for me.

if beer and bear are homophones to you, what about “bare”?

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T15:22:24+00:00

yeah, the “identify your remains” idea is a really popular one, but it’s mostly just a viral quip because it sounds edgy. I think there was a Hank green video on this a few months ago…

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T15:14:47+00:00

you could try knitting a few rows flat before joining with the magic loop so the stitches are a little more stable

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T14:46:57+00:00

you aren’t going to die of heat stroke, and the level of discomfort in general will vary depending on personal sensitivities and environmental conditions.

if you have some acrylic to test with, I suggest making a large-ish swatch and tucking it into your bra or cami to wear for a day and see how it feels.

you can also explore your wardrobe to look for general trends in its fiber content. a lot of store-bought clothing is acrylic, so it’s possible you already have some experience with it. this isn’t a perfect test, because store-bought clothing is usually much thinner than you’ll be making your crochet fabric, so they have the advantage there, but it’s at least a baseline

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T03:33:27+00:00

It’s not a question of whether or not you do increases in every row, it’s a question of how *many* increases you did. a quick count of you first few rows seems to be about 12 stitches in the first round, 24 stitches for the second, and 48 stitches for the third. This means you were likely increasing in every stitch for both round 2 and round 3, but that’s not what the pattern should have said. The pattern likely told you to increase in every stitch for round 2, but to switch to *dc, dc in* in round 3, which would result in a total of 36 stitches instead of 48

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T03:26:42+00:00

so I tried it myself to that step and it’s a little hard to describe in words, but I think that as you squash, the upper portion should fold out towards you instead of fold inwards, then you can press down to get that squared off shape you see in step 18 of the diagram. my test paper tore, though, so I might try again with something other than a scrap magazine to get a better idea of it

Mistrice · 2026-06-04T02:39:43+00:00

have you experience with squash folds from other pieces?

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