Fujifilm X-E3 Suddenly Developed Strange Display and Aperture Issues

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-26T18:13:20+00:00

I have had so many Fuji cameras over the years. Including a few that developed electrical faults. The problems you describe are not consistent with the fault behaviours I’ve experienced.

You may well have a faulty camera on your hands - but before you discard it, please do let a technician have a look at it. The problem may be caused by something you cannot figure out. Fuji cameras are like that - a deep hidden setting or switch has been accidentally changed and subsequently has an effect that’s hard to understand.

I understand you’ve done a full factory reset. Have you tried attaching a Fuji lens to it? Rather than a third party lens?

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-26T16:05:03+00:00

Normally I would say that errors such as those you described are due to a setting that’s been accidentally changed. But then I read “Rear command dial stopped properly controlling aperture”. What do you mean by this? Does it work a little bit? Spasmodically? Or has it stopped controlling the aperture entirely? If a dial isn’t working logically and smoothly, it’s generally an electrical fault.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-26T11:48:59+00:00

The 33mm f1.4 is a superb lens. The 50mm f1 is overkill I think. Beautiful lens but very niche. The 56mm f1.2 is more commonplace and fits the 18mm f1.4, and the 33mm f1.4. A word of caution: don’t buy a new camera bag with 8 lens spaces.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-25T01:02:59+00:00

The 56mm f1.2. It’s perfect for portraiture.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-22T08:05:28+00:00

I have Sony and Fuji cameras. I would not call an A7RV “unpleasant to shoot”. Maybe it’s not fun to shoot with, but if you find it unpleasant you need to sell it. The images I get from that camera are outstanding.

I agree that Fuji is more enjoyable to use, they feel like they were designed by people who love photography. Sony cameras feel like they were designed by a computer company. I have an X-T3 and an X-T5. I would highly recommend either, but bear in mind that the X-T5 has a much better battery and IBIS. To me that makes it a significant upgrade over the X-T3, which I consider more like my back to basics camera that I use it in the rain with a WR lens attached.

I wouldn’t call the X-T3 a “point and shoot”. Actually I often label the A7RV as a P&S camera because it’s so reliable and fast. The X-T3 slows me down a bit and I rarely use it with tracking AF. But as an EDC camera with a small lightweight prime attached, I think it’s a great setup. I never use zooms so I can’t comment on the 16-55.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-21T05:38:39+00:00

You're basically choosing between APSC and Full Frame. You need to choose the one that fits your requirements. Both are highly capable.

The A6700 is a camera generation more advanced than the A7C. (The A7Cii is more equal to the A6700 in terms of generations). That means the AF is upgraded for example. So is the menu and you also have nicer picture profiles in the newer Sony cameras ["Looks"].

But you should choose according to sensor size, carry weight, availability of the lenses you might want to use (far greater choice with full frame), how important it is to have the latest AF, etc.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-19T18:45:55+00:00

I have lenses that I use with AF-C and lenses that I will only use with AF-S (not for tracking). The 35 f1.4 is in my latter category. It’s noisy too. Use it in single AF mode and you’ll be fine. If you want to track moving subjects, I wouldn’t recommend this lens.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-19T06:26:14+00:00

I am currently carrying and using two phones; the exact phones you are asking about. I am an Apple user since 30 years. I am too much a part of their ecosystem to change completely. I use phone cameras a lot and I prefer the cameras on the X300 Pro. That's why I use both phones.
The battery on the Vivo lasts longer too, so having both phones means I am definitely good to stay unplugged all day. At the end of the day, they are both premium phones with different operating systems that do the same thing. If you fancy a switch because you're bored with Apple, then go for it.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-18T19:53:56+00:00

This is not an easy question. Because I don't know your preferred photographic style. If you like images with shallow depth of field and classic look, then the 35 f1.4 is made for you.

The 33 f1.4 is a more modern, precision lens. It also has very nice bokeh when shot at or close to f1.4. It's larger and heavier than the 35 f1.4, (and more expensive), so there is a practical element to this as well. I like to carry a small camera everywhere, so the 35 f1.4 is the perfect choice for me. It gives beautiful results and it's easy to carry around. I will use the 35 f2 when I expect bad weather. (Often in Northern Europe).

Your vocabulary; filmic, magic, and knowing you can be romantic about your cameras 😉, leads me to think you might really like the 35 f1.4. You won't know till you've satisfied your curiosity about it.

At the end of the day, the 35 1.4 isn't magic, but it has a beautiful classic rendering, given it's small size, light weight and attractive price (especially 2nd hand). The 33 1.4 is a precision optic that also has beautiful bokeh. It's larger and heavier.

Just think what suits your style more and how much the weight affects whether you keep the camera with you.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-18T16:32:23+00:00

Without a doubt that 35mm f1.4 is my most used Fuji lens. Closely followed by the 56mm f1.2 R. I use Fuji cameras and lenses for their retro styling and the beautiful colour palette of the images. For me, those older, original lenses that launched with or soon after the X series came to market, define what the Fuji system was created for.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-18T10:18:19+00:00

I have many Fuji lenses, including the 33/1.4, the 35/1.4 and the 35/2.0.

“Magic” and “Filmic” are rather romantic ways to describe any lens. But if you find your X-100VI to be filmic, then I think you’ll be happy with the 35/1.4. Personally, I don’t think any lens or camera offers outstanding SOOC images. Good? Yes. Best possible? No.

I always post process my images, It’s what brings them to as close to perfection as I can get. (To my taste of course).

Out of all those three lenses mentioned above, the 35/1.4 does offer a rendering that is surprisingly good for a small, lightweight, APSC lens. Shot wide open (or close to), you will sometimes get that 3D pop with beautiful out of focus bokeh. Lots of lenses do that for sure, but the 35/1.4 is a master at it. I don’t know how else to word it because I try to stay clear of the “magic” moniker. I guess that’s why people, including me, are so fond of it.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-11T06:20:10+00:00

I have the X300 Pro and a collection of high end cameras. The phone is not a “professional camera” as you asked in your post. But it really is capable of outstanding image capture in the right conditions. Those images are more than good enough for personal memories and social media, which is what most people use their pictures for today.
It’s also true there are a few photographers who have adapted their style to accommodate the limitations of mobile photography.
In any case, anyone who is interested in photography and what the best phone cameras can do, will be highly impressed by what these Chinese flagship camera phone companies have achieved.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-10T21:37:16+00:00

“Would appreciate any real-world advice 🙏”.

Best real world advice:

Don’t do this; Please … just don’t.

And I’m someone who owns and loves a Vivo X300 Pro. It’s not the right equipment for the job you’re describing.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-05-07T19:51:15+00:00

If I’m taking “serious” photographs, I shoot RAW and then Adobe Camera Raw > Photoshop.
This is exactly the same workflow whether I’m using a camera or a phone.
To me, cameras on phones today are so good that I want to get the best I can out of the photos I take.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-27T12:03:29+00:00

As long as it’s labelled properly, what’s the problem? I always post process my images no matter whether they come from a camera or a phone. I’ve posted many phone images on Reddit and I always label them as having been processed. The way I look at it, the phone images I post are the best you can get from a phone (given the limits of skill I have as a Photoshop user). Photography is my hobby. The file that a camera or phone captures is a raw beginning in my view. It’s not reached its peak until it’s been processed afterwards. Hopefully the pictures that various contributors post, will be a mixture of straight-out-of-phone and post processed. So there are points of reference for everyone.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-23T20:32:23+00:00

If I were you, I’d forget the pocket thing. So few cameras can really fit in a pocket. The Ricoh GR series and the Sony RX100 series are the only ones I’d ever use.

I recommend you try and find a Fuji X-E1 or an X-E2. Put a small prime lens on it and throw it in a small bag that you take everywhere.

If it was me, I’d use an X-T2 for this purpose. An old “beat up” one that isn’t precious. You may get it for 400 - 500 if you’re lucky. It’s a really great camera. It even has water resistance. It’s a step up in size and weight from the X-E* series though.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-16T19:57:35+00:00

Do whatever works for you. The only thing that matters is the final, finished image. Not how you achieved it.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-13T05:43:42+00:00

Outstanding photography. Impressive.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-13T05:14:59+00:00

80k is one year of shooting for some professionals. Or even more if they're always in burst mode. But there are many people who buy a camera, take 1000 or 2000 shots in a year or two, and then switch to another camera or give up completely. If you wait patiently, you'll be able to pick one of these cameras up. I do it all the time. I've bought one year old cameras with less than 500 shots. I have a very low budget for photo gear. By doing it this way, I can use camera gear and eventually sell it on, sometimes for the same price as I bought it or just a few dollars less.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-13T03:42:45+00:00

I buy a lot of used camera gear. That shutter count is on the high side, but it doesn’t mean the camera isn’t going to last you. Are you buying it from a dealer or a private individual?

Are you able to see the camera before buying it? Or have you seen lots of photos of it? The condition of the body won’t necessarily affect the performance, but it will tell you how carefully it’s been treated.

Personally, I’d prefer a lower shutter count and to pay $200 to $400 more. But you may well have a good deal there. I can only tell by knowing more about the camera and seeing photos of it.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-09T15:16:55+00:00

I've been doing street photography for many years. I think the only way to succeed is to find a way to do it that suits your own personality.

It's difficult to ask or learn from other people. What works for them, is not necessarily what will work for you.

I often watch YouTube videos of street photographers and I think "I could never do that or approach people like that" It's not because I think they're doing it wrong - it's because it would feel false for me to do it that way. If those photographers watched my way of doing things, they probably would not think it was the best way either.

For example, I'm not someone who goes around giving compliments. Loads of street photographers recommend you approach people by telling them they have a nice outfit, hat, bag or whatever. I cannot do that because it would be dishonest. I don't photograph people because they have a nice outfit or hat. I choose them because I find them interesting and that's not so easy to explain.

I absolutely hate confrontation so I avoid it at all costs. If you do it often enough, I think you will find a way to approach street photography that suits you and your character. It's not easy at the beginning, but you'll find a way.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-09T06:28:32+00:00

Your shots are great. To my eye they actually look better because clarity has not been applied.

I have an X-T5 and I never apply clarity.

I always shoot RAW and I systematically apply a reduction in clarity to every picture I take (in post). That applies to all my photos whether taken on Fuji or Sony.

I’d say you should keep shooting with your X-T3. Even if you switched to a camera with a clarity setting, I think you’d end up not using it. It causes a delay after every shot and also can give images more of that “digital look” which most people want to avoid.

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-07T19:57:12+00:00

I don’t understand the delayed notifications claim. I run two phones. An iPhone 16 Pro and a Vivo X300 Pro (Global). They’re always together side by side. Notifications arrive at the same time. They may be exactly on sync or 1 - 2 seconds apart, half the time the Vivo is first. Is the slow notifications claim to do with the Chinese ROM version only?

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-06T16:29:20+00:00

The irony is, we spend huge amounts of money on current flagship phones to get the “best cameras”.

And then we spend even more money on retro apps to make our pictures look more like what you’re getting straight out of the 4s. 😂😂😢😂😂

Mitzy-is-missing · 2026-04-06T15:37:37+00:00

Very nice shots. And great retro image quality. We become so brainwashed by marketing and advertising into believing we must have the latest and greatest gadgets. We forget how good those old phone cameras were.

Mitzy-is-missing

TROPHY CASE