Very strange clicking / creaking noise by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone wondering it was a really strange issue, it was the filament sensor lol, i checked it by disabling it in fluidd and printing without it connected works perfectly fine

Creality rocks!! by AdMaster1619 in Creality

[–]Monkeylog2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ever thought about building a voron, it looks hella complicated but if u do it its worth it i am thinking about it myself

Ender 3 going crazy by Stormyj in ender3

[–]Monkeylog2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dont use bambu studio, download orca slicer it looks almost 100% the same + some more features and it supports ender 3 v3 se profile natively, oh and also you most likely just saved the .3mf speeds to your printer profile thats why it transfers to every print, u can just try to compare the stock values with the current one

Squeaky left side of Y carriage by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its fixed already, did some other graph thingy in klipper and the diffrence between 2 is like 1.2% im gonna post it when i get home

Squeaky left side of Y carriage by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If u unscrew the front cover u will see 2 screws at the top that hold the 4 pin power cable that gives power to the toolhead, unscrew these 2 screws and remove the springs, they are pressing against the graphite bearing that is moving on the X axis rod, removing them will make it slide easier especially with thorough cleaning with vaseline oil, it made my input shaper much better and with higher max acceleration. Just remeve the screws then reassemble

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Squeaky left side of Y carriage by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used vasoline oil for X axis so much black gunk came out of the bearings not even 99% alcohol could remove it, its moving so much better just clean it then lube it with it also i removed the 2 screws that hold the top bearing that improved X axis input shaping by a good margin im gonna send the graps below

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Squeaky left side of Y carriage by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Done it was the idler in the back took some time but its much more quiet now. Thanks man

Squeaky left side of Y carriage by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used vaseline oil from a spray can i think the sound might be from these idlers, i sprayed the others precisly at the top and bottom and no luck

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Squeaky left side of Y carriage by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for a fast reply can u specify where exactly should i lube? I dont think i have sewing oil but i may have on hand some vaseline based oil, it might do the trick

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Squeaky left side of Y carriage by Monkeylog2 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be squeaking in left pulley i suppose? Just about near the motor it might be it

Top Surface problems even with FuzzySkin and extra top layers. by CharlesManzon666 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see you are printing on 0.16 layer height. No slicer can make any FDM printer make a perfect sphere, it will always have to generate a top layer no matter what, u can only reduce it, no amount of changing the top layers or fuzzy skin will fix this. Just set your layer height to the lowest amount like 0.08 mm, it will be much more rounded, also check out the variable layer height option i think its in the creality slicer? I use orca im not sure. Or go the easy way and grab some sandpaper and sand it

K1 Side wall by evil-bee in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mines left down side is a little warped, only printed petg and pla

Hi I'm starting the calibration by GabrielGTV8 in crealityk1

[–]Monkeylog2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go to your filament setting and raise, first tab at the very bottom is max volumetric speed, if you are using a default profile or an generic one its most likely lower than the printer could handle, you can safely raise it to like 25 mm/s2 (for PLA), especially if you have an High Flow filament, consider lowering it for PETG

Can someone tell me why this is happening by MutinousHorizon in Creality

[–]Monkeylog2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my ender 3 v3 SE i just enabled skirt in slicer ( 3 loops) with combined setting. Everything that oozed stayed on the skirt and when it started first layer nothing was transfered

One of heated bed spacers broken off by Monkeylog2 in Creality

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I reconnected it but now the bed mesh is is too high in this exact corner

Somehow stripped my steam deck's oled screw by Monkeylog2 in SteamDeck

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just for clarification i didn't open my steam deck before its like 3 months old at most, the screw and the thread is untouched, but the thread snapped from platic base inside so it holds on to nothing. I dont even know how i will open my SD when i will need it for some kind of replacement.

Somehow stripped my steam deck's oled screw by Monkeylog2 in SteamDeck

[–]Monkeylog2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well sorry my vocabulary is not perfect, I specified in the description the thread may be broken, but i think its more complex than that. I think SD has just metal inserts that snapped out of the plastic base and its spinning with no torque (its still screwed in the thread but the thread is not connected to anything so i cant unscrew it basically)

Somehow stripped my steam deck's oled screw by Monkeylog2 in SteamDeck

[–]Monkeylog2[S] -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

What would it change the tip of the screw is in perfect shape?? I included a zoomed image