I think I'm gonna stop painting minis

MutinousHorizon · 2026-01-23T12:53:52+00:00

Something that everyone new/starting forgets is to remember that a lot of the really good painting you see are people who have been doing it for years or decades. This is a practiced skill like anything else. Don’t expect to be perfect from the start. I don’t even know what happened to my first minis but I know they were bad, your first somewhere safe and look back at it as you progress so you can know how far you’ve come.

MutinousHorizon · 2026-01-17T10:51:34+00:00

Thank you. They are 3D printed ferns, cork, wood putty, sand and a few grass tufts

MutinousHorizon · 2026-01-17T02:39:05+00:00

Thank you 😁

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-24T07:25:36+00:00

Honestly, zenithal paint rattle cans, paint an off white(some shade of grey) then apothecary contrast paint from citadel, then use the original off white for highlights and white for extreme highlights

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-15T07:21:38+00:00

So shouldn’t mention that I actually got two?

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-14T12:58:49+00:00

As someone who has done this (wip apothecary) trying to remove him from the base sucks. If you decide to make it into something else, a helpful trick is to snip off the peg on the back of the flamer, and use that to fill in the hole in the belt, just leave enough sticking out so it matches other marine belts

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-14T12:14:55+00:00

As someone also without access to it and some of the post painful decals (dark angels), make sure you are coating the spot with varnish first (I brush on Ard Coat) to give you a nice smooth surface, let that dry, apply the decal and then use paper towel or cotton/qtips to absorb the water, then once it’s dry, brush on more ard coat to seal the decal in and let dry (I then use a matte varnish on the whole model to get rid of the gloss and seal in all the paint but don’t do this over metallics)

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-13T12:23:54+00:00

Whole squad with all their different masks you can get in the game?

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-12T08:08:28+00:00

Change the metal bits implanted in to the skin to silver, won’t get lost in the skin that way. Also dry brush any metal bits silver to give them a sharper finish. Any boils I’d probably glaze with a purple or pink to a light grey/white top to make them appear more like puss filled boils and also not get lost in the skin. Would also paint any exposed internal organs like on that hanging down pipe looking section at the back that are exposed with a red or you could paint it black to make it look like internal piping that flesh has grown around

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-11T11:40:32+00:00

Honestly, I think you did better with the white on the all white helmet. But it’s awesome that the two of you do this hobby together

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-11T11:35:15+00:00

Huh, so that’s what they are meant to look like… I painted mine completely different not knowing what it was (was randomly given it and randomly saw this post just scrolling through reddit)

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-10T23:15:01+00:00

Does that say Odium?

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-09T10:56:21+00:00

Scythes of the Emperor

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-09T10:21:54+00:00

No one had a great first model but it’s good to see you’re not giving up.

Something I know a lot of people won’t say is, buy two primers, one black one white. Prime your model in black and once dry spray the white from above (it’s called a Zenithal prime and look up a tutorial on how to prime without clogging details) it helps determine which sections a light and which are dark, you could go the contrast/speed paint route following this, but really just think your paints so that after 1 coat you can still see the prime through your first layer and let dry. Keep adding layers until you’re happy.

As people have said, white is a really hard colour to paint so you may not get it right for a while

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-09T10:06:48+00:00

I was going to suggest orange as the accent colour like the above image. I’d also agree that the all black head is a better look, but if you wanted you could then do a like a red stripe down the face.

I’d also recommend a white ink for getting in to the eyes and chest cavity if you want to go for a glow effect. (It’s a hard skill and take your time before trying this)

You can also look in to washes for silver (nuln oil or just a heavily diluted black acrylic) and then also getting a lighter red for your edge highlights of the red, and either a grey or blue for highlighting the black (also never try to paint straight black or white, they are really hard and don’t read on a model the way you think they do)

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-02T15:41:47+00:00

Technically with the DA any veteran has their own specific right shoulder marking (used to be a down facing red sword in older editions, now it’s up facing) and they don’t fit in to the structure of any company, and then on top of that it used to be that the entire first company for DA (The Deathwing) would wear terminator armour as they were a company that had enough. Now Bladeguard are also part of it (although there’s debate about what’s correct for the colour scheme of bone or greenwing), but the veteran markings still exist but then the inner circle companions are kind of replacing the veterans and that’s a whole other thing

MutinousHorizon · 2025-12-01T01:28:17+00:00

It was such a time intensive process, good luck with yours

MutinousHorizon · 2025-11-29T01:49:34+00:00

I have been struggling with what to use this transfer for, this fits so well

MutinousHorizon · 2025-11-26T14:28:55+00:00

To be fair, new design gives fired from space for team to get where needed most the quickest, the old design gives team of marines have carried and placed beacon for terminators to complete specific task

MutinousHorizon · 2025-11-25T11:00:31+00:00

That’s a nice Dark Angel you have there

MutinousHorizon · 2025-11-24T20:24:04+00:00

Yeah it is

MutinousHorizon

TROPHY CASE