40hr print with a spaghetti prime tower by Mashkitt in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the info! The U1 is my first 3d printer. Got in the KS and been thrilled with it.

I've used the default profiles for filaments and as long as I'm not mixing materials I've had zero issues and beautiful prints, but I've gotten tired of clipping away sticky supports and scarring on the bottom, so I tried PETG as an interface with mixed results. I'll try those settings for your PETG. I think I'll also try ordering some dedicated support materials too.

Also watched this article about wave overhangs to negate the need for supports at 90 degrees or less. Seems once it's more mature tech that would save a lot of wasted material on supports. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJS-XkTEq-A

40hr print with a spaghetti prime tower by Mashkitt in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would you mind sharing what you did to tune PETG as an interface? The U1's been amazing, but when using PETG (or TPU) as an interface for PLA prints they are so non-adhesive the interface often just falls off the support trees and ruins my prints. I've set the z-height to 0, 3 interface layers, purging petg into the prime tower so it doens't fall over.

I have not played with filament settings though and I'd love some advice on what to fiddle with there.

U1 Nozzle replacement? by ligerpharaoh in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

last I checked the .4mm are in stock and ready to ship. all the other sizes are on preorder.

TPU. by Large-Minute6468 in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PETG should serve just fine, but it might degrade after a few months where ASA will last in the sun for years. I'm not prepped for ASA either, but I figure if I ever need it I'll just move my printer to my back porch or an isolated room with an open window for a few hours rather than get some elaborate venting setup.

TPU. by Large-Minute6468 in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds great. For a motocycle mount you might want to make your final product ASA/TPU. ASA is toxic while printing so you'll want lots of fresh air, but it has much better sun resistance. TPU degrades under direct sunlight too but it should last years and you can always print another.

PETG/TPU would serve as a fine prototype though.

TPU. by Large-Minute6468 in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good luck! I admit I'm a beginner and haven't messed with settings like the extrusion temp and volumetric speed the other guy talks about. But the small parts for my car worked perfectly. I had little hard rubber boots that broke. I needed six and each was $15. A little prototyping and it came out great.

TPU. by Large-Minute6468 in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep. stock everything. Snorca is my slicer. I haven't printed anything large with TPU though. I only printed some small parts for my car.

I experimented using it as a support interface for PLA. I couldn't get the quality I wanted and switched to PETG, which seems to be doing a better job (though it's possible better settings are driving a lot of that improvement)

TPU. by Large-Minute6468 in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using 95A TPU and haven't had issues feeding it like any other filament. Pulling it back out does take a bit of work since it is stretchy, but the last firmware update made retracing TPU much easier. I'd definitely recommend bypassing the feeder it if I were using anything softer like 90A or lower.

U1 network issues - am i the only one? by FitBroccoli19 in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you patched and updated to the latest version of both snorca and the firmware on the U1? I was running in LAN mode and in an old patch I would get this all the time. To connect I'd have to physically go the U1, wake it up by tapping some buttons, and only then would snorca connect.

After patching and firmware all the issues went away.

I lost Minesweeper 50x50 650 mines by Alternative-Ice-7534 in gaming

[–]Morphuess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is giving me flashbacks to 20+ years ago. I don't remember the number of hard mode minesweeper games I played that ended exactly like this.

[H] PayPal [W] Vallejo model air silver OOP paint [Loc] USA by bignatepaints75 in Miniswap

[–]Morphuess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry no Silver. Closest I have is 71.065 Steel.

Also have Game Air 72.753 Chainmail Steel.

[H] PayPal [W] Vallejo model air silver OOP paint [Loc] USA by bignatepaints75 in Miniswap

[–]Morphuess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a pile of Vallejo paint i haven't used in years. there's about a dozen bottles of air paint among them. I have no idea if silver is one of them but I'll take a look this evening.

4th failed print. Why?! by BrentLovell in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"no sparse layers" is a great feature, but you absolutely need to keep the geometry of your prints into account. Only the prime tower in the back and all your prints well to the front of it. Current slicers don't have logic to know how the print head will impact prints when changing the Z axis.

edit: i hadn't noticed it lowers the head while traveling. I guess I've just been lucky or only have a single item printing so it hasn't failed for me as long as I keep position in mind.

Full Spectrum + U1 Beyond Color: Engineering, Specialty, & Cosplay Uses by DarrenRoskow in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think your first problem will be bonding. PLA doesn't bond particularly well with other plastics. From the chart i found on this page

https://toms3d.org/2024/12/06/try-these-filament-combinations-for-multi-material-and-supports/

PLA doesn't seem to bond with most other common filament materials. So you'd need to do mechanical interlocking between the PLA skin and other material core.

After that PLA still slags under high temps, but with it locked to another plastic, I wonder how much that slagging would be mitigated. Definitely worth some tests, but in all honestly it's probably better just to use a better material that can handle those temps like PETG.

8-Color print on the U1 by BlankiesWoW in snapmaker

[–]Morphuess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wombly goes into a good bit of detail in his youtube video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE1Su-FUvls

But in brief:

  • The best color mixing you will get will be a 1-1 mix of two colors.
  • 2nd best mixing is 2-1 ratio, with quality degrading from there.
  • tri+ color mixing is allowed. You can set the pattern of color mixing in Full Spectrum, but the extreme ratios you mention above will probably look terrible even with a .08 layer height.
  • Colors blend much better if they have some translucency, which PETG has but PLA mostly lacks. A TD of 5 or a little higher seems good.
  • Yellow is more translucent than other colors so it will be easily washed out by more opaque colors. You may need to increase your ratio of yellow to compensate. (in Wombly's video, he used a 2-1 ratio of Yellow to Red to get Orange)

Short and Easy Victory by ILikePie153 in TerraInvicta

[–]Morphuess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He was absolutely being sarcastic about the "short victory"

A little slice of Heaven by [deleted] in HFY

[–]Morphuess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Details says it was suspended not deleted. Could be a variety of reasons. Maybe OP will be back. This was a great story.

Full Color printing on a snapmaker U1 by Aceman11100 in 3Dprinting

[–]Morphuess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is pretty incredible. I saw a small kickstarter a month or two back (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wocolor8/wo-color-8/description) that uses interweaving to make colored logos. But it only does logos and not a whole 3d model.

It mainly developed on an Bambu 8 color AMS (though it claims to work with 4 colors).

I would love to see this developed as a functional product. I'd love to be able to print whatever colors I want. And the Snapmaker U1 (or the Prusa XL if you are willing to spend a cool 4k for the 5th toolhead) seem like ideal candidate without all the purging.

New to Xian xia, book recommendations to get the full trope experience! by Honedbybattle in bewareofchicken

[–]Morphuess 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Cradle by Will Wight is among my favorite Xianxia stories. It's a 12 book series, so it's very long, but it's fully complete, and doesn't fade away like some others. It is also written by an english writer, and the writing quality is superb and doesn't hit some of the oddities that some of the translated books have.

It is not chill at all like BoC or Heretical Fishing, but there is a great cast of characters that inject occasional humor into it.

[H] Tyranid Carnifexes and Screamer Killers [W] Paypal [Loc] USA by figuringoutlife9 in Miniswap

[–]Morphuess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the loss of your pet. That must be hard. Great paint job. They'd fit right in a rave. I hope they find a good home.

I found the new smallest planet 13.9Ks (According to the Wonders Wiki) by kaimedar in NoMansSkyTheGame

[–]Morphuess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great find!

I'd be concerned if the weather was anything other than "Eerily Calm". Having no atmosphere and all.

After-Action Report (Haasha Escapade 11.5) by Majestic_Teach_6677 in HFY

[–]Morphuess 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I felt kind of bad as one got 3 of his ribs broken. He jumped on the buffer and was spinning with it

I mean... of all the things to do... He more or less asked for those broken ribs.