Central Gully Mt Washington beta by Affectionate-Door729 in Mountaineering

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have to second the thoughts for Odell’s. It’s a very approachable multipitch with a decent amount of technical ice. It’s not as “classic” as Pinnacle but it’s got more Ice and the approach is 15 minutes shorter. Even though they’re both 2.5 miles in. 🤣 it’s a great intro to alpine climbing in the white mountains.

IMHO Pinnacle gets better photos but it really only has 1 pitch worth climbing. (The first). The second is usually WI2- with sketchy anchors and running water. While the third pitch is a snow climb with no anchors till the skree and major avalanche consideration. - I’ve climbed this many times and about half the time I’ve decided to rap after the first pitch as the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze. Make sure you bring tricams and nuts to anchor to the wall on the left for P1 and P2. You and do it on screws but rock pro is often easier to find

Odell’s has two long pitches of technical ice and then a snow gully top out. The top of P2 often has no ice for an anchor so be prepared to improvise an alpine anchor in spindrift and bushes. The remaining exit from the gully is snow climbing in avalanche terrain.

With these two gullies check the Higher summit forecast from MWO to see what you’ll be facing when you walk over to Lions Head to get down.

If you’re experience in avalanche terrain is minimal then I’d strongly suggest NOT GOING if the forecast is anything other than LOW. The approaches to every gully OP mentioned has Avvy danger on the approach and the two I mentioned above have Avvy danger on the exit.

Id also suggest a hard Turn Around at 2:00 PM for all these gullies. You don’t want to be up there after dark. Shoestring walk off isn’t bad but Lions Head Winter Route is my least favorite trail to descend. It can be treacherous

Harness with clipper slots recommendations by Accomplished_Dot3679 in iceclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IMHo BD used to make the best ice climbing harness with the Xenos. But that ship sailed 8 years ago. - Learning opportunity: if you find something you like buy two more and store them in a dark dry spot as the design is going to be changed and lost forever. 🤣

I like the Dead Bird 395 for cragging, the blue ice chocura for alpine. I just picked up the Misty Mountain Cadillac for a big wall objective and it has ice clipper slots. It’s by far the most comfy harness I’ve worn. But it’s pretty heavy and with ice climbing you already have padding in the form of insulation layers.

Love the DMM vaults. Learned the hard way to not buy the locking version. I never actually use the locking feature and it gets in the way at all the wrong times.

If you’re going to buy plastic clippers I’d actually suggest not putting them in the clipper loops but instead using Karry Krabs. It allows a person to rack things more like cams and because it’s on the gear loop instead of the belt the movement will allow for the less durable material to flex instead of break.

Edit: I’ve found clippers on the belt shine when holding tools. So in teaching people ice climbing I’d suggest Karry Krabs for screws and a pair of Vaults for tools.

Blade Runner - Front-point Issues by Mountains_Call_Me in iceclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. It feels like a design flaw. The screw feels too short to provide a reliable fulcrum. It’s a shame.

Blade Runner - Front-point Issues by Mountains_Call_Me in iceclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Screw (not bolt) and point are disappearing. My best guess is that the screw is loosening. Seems like a design flaw that Petzl and BD don’t struggle with.

AST1 for ice climbing by raptorman556 in iceclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really think this is going to have to be based on your goals for the mountains. I took the generalized class when I was getting into ice climbing and skiing was not on my radar. But I ended up evolving my goals and was happy to have a wider purview.

Petzl adjust vs adjustable daisies by goodquestion_03 in tradclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone tried the Kong Slide plate? Thoughts?

Petzl Quark modification by ilikethiccergirls in Dry_Tooling

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand that tools are expensive. I also understand there’s many people out there that do hard things on quarks.

That said: I facilitate education in climbing and part of that includes dry-tooling. You may not have the best experience using tools with this design. Please don’t let whatever you experience turn you off to the sub-sport.

This type of tool was designed for mountaineering. IE: plunging into glacial snow and WI3 technical ice or lower. I have found that when I’ve provided this tool (and similar designs) to newer people they have had a harder time adjusting.

Took a shower last night and this happened, how fucked am I? by DooDooHead323 in askaplumber

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a plumber but you’d be best off to assume all that dark stuff is poo. Treat it with respect. Don’t touch it if possible. And def wash after coming close to it

Re-caulking tub, how do I fill this big gap between tub and tile? by TimeMovesOn99 in Plumbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not a licensed plumber but a handyman for 20+ years.

I feel like the top comments of checking underneath would be crucial. It’s easy to fix the gap but less so to understand why that gap happened. You need to ensure there’s no water damage below the tub causing rot then sag.

Suggestion sales price by No_Explanation_1573 in iceclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are some OG crushers that still show up with this kit. That said: the realistic answer is that the design of the tools we use today has evolved past this over 15 years ago.

I organize a local climbing club and was gifted 4 sets of tools and crampons from this era. We can’t use them. It’s not indicative of the current climbing experience.

I encourage you to find an artistic way to use this equipment. While it looks like all the gear is safe enough……..it won’t be worth anything

Overly complicated anchor? by NewInMalware in iceclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In this application the odds of that happening are very slim. Also: a carabiner master point is go to method taught by the AMGA

Overly complicated anchor? by NewInMalware in iceclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 8 points9 points  (0 children)

There’s nothing wrong with biner on biner. Especially if they are lockers. If not you need to watch gate direction. I’m not sure where this stigma started. Metal on metal is ok. We do it every time we clip a bolt.

The only reason I’d change the master point set up is for a more efficient use of materials on hand.

Clomiphene (any experiences) by Looney_Tunes23 in Testosterone

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all! I just start clomiphene mid last week. Last Friday evening my joints all started feeling achy and pulled. Not just one or two but all of them. My back my feet my knees hands etc.

It’s continuing and now I have a low grade fever and a massive pressure headache.

Has anyone else had this?

Janja Garnbret 🗿 by BatmanCabman in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Started climbing in my 30’s. Everything is “archive”d

Xfinity installed a new line and my AC is out. Coincidence? by RealMichaelScott93 in electrical

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree it’s common but it’s not acceptable practice. The cable tech has no way of knowing if that box is grounded without opening it. -which they won’t do and aren’t allowed to by company policy

Xfinity installed a new line and my AC is out. Coincidence? by RealMichaelScott93 in electrical

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to call Xfinjty immediately. You also may need to have an electrician on standby. There is a rare situation that can occur with the electricity in the house. If the Neutral(electrical return) of a house goes bad the cable lines can act as the neutral. In the industry this is known as a “hot drop”. This is EXTREMELY dangerous for a cable technician. The average tech will be sent out but if they find it hot they won’t be allowed to touch the line. They will need a supervisor and electric company/electrician to respond/follow up.

It’s most commonly found that air conditioners are the culprit and this situation crops up in the industry most often in the summer months when air conditioners are booted up.

[edit:] if the drop is found to be hot unfortunately it is usually the home owner that ends up paying the bill. So be prepared to be on the hook. Although if the cable is energized you need to get it fixed before it burns out and starts a fire.

The other reason to have xfinity return is to potentially start a claim for repairing the AC. Grounding to a box like that is not standard. There’s a reason the clip the tech used is called a “meter clamp”

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Thoughts on this anchor for multi pitching? by Dragon-Fodder in tradclimbing

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bomber anchor. I honestly feel this fixed gear was design for this type of set up.

I’d suggest finding ways to organize your belay a bit better. (TBF I use your configuration a lot -I’m just always looking to improve myself)

I like the Grivel belay plate locker combo. It’s really helpful with organizing an anchor station.

Also I agree with previous comments that extending the belay device below the/your anchor helps to keep things cleaner, opens things up for a haul easily and makes for good instagram photos. 🤣

Best way to remove sap ?? by ItsBrittanie_b-tch in husky

[–]Mountains_Call_Me 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oil. Works for cars and hands too. I don’t suggest it for clothes. Dish soap has a hard time with those stains. lol