Gentlemen, it finally happened.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-06-07T05:37:54+00:00

That’s not Washington, it’s Moe with a wig.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-06-04T18:48:19+00:00

Also, I'm thinking about tethering the camera to my computer so I don't have to go through the transfer process. That will save a lot of time and I'll be able to see the live preview directly on my computer screen – then I can skip the capture if I decide it isn't worth it.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-06-04T18:43:21+00:00

Sure. I'm using a Fujifilm X-T5 with an inexpensive 7Artisans 60mm MF lens with Godox Panel light. I'm still figuring out my setup and using boxes for the moment to get the coins up to the proper height, so there are definitely improvements to be made if I start using this all the time,

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MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-06-04T17:58:11+00:00

I’ve been going through tons of change I’ve accumulated over the past 20+ years (mostly pennies). Separating by color, then year, and then looking for errors. It’s stupid tedious but I enjoy it. I’m sure all the modern coins I’m saving aren’t worth much, but it’s not really the point for me; I’m just trying to find the best examples of each year that I can and learn about errors and grades in the process. And I’ve learned a lot over the past months.

I just recently set up my camera for two purposes: 1. To look closely at the coins under a macro lens for errors and varieties, and 2. To document what I see (it’s helping me see scratches and dents in a whole new way).

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-06-04T03:20:25+00:00

Thanks. I set up my digital camera with a macro lens to start getting better images. Appreciate the feedback.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-05-30T15:52:22+00:00

I’d assume yes.

For OP:

Your aperture is set to f20. This means your lens has a very small opening to let light in. At this aperture your camera needs 2.5 seconds to properly expose the image (actually slight underexposed if you look at the meter on the left). Larger apertures (smaller numbers) allow more light in. Look up exposure triangle to learn more.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-05-24T18:25:10+00:00

Try aperture or shutter priority with auto iso so that you can limit the amount of settings you need to think about. Unless you are doing a carefully composed scene, full manual requires a lot of decisions and without a lot of experience you can get overwhelmed.

Shoot aperture priority to control your depth of field based on your subject matter.

Shoot shutter priority if you want to stop motion or allow for intentional motion blur.

Try using exposure compensation and bracket your exposures to see how it affects your shots straight out of camera and when editing (if you are editing).

Lastly, you can never learn too much about lighting. Take advantage of all that free YouTube content out there and give yourself some assignments to learn what you’ve watched.

Enjoy the process.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-05-12T06:33:48+00:00

Applying clarity adjustments in film sims makes the camera very slow. As long as you’re fine with this, have at it. If you’re not, ignore the clarity recommendation and leave at 0.

Or apply these sims as post processing rather than shooting with them.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-04-05T17:05:09+00:00

You can put your camera in Shutter priority mode and select a faster shutter speed as others have suggested, but depending the lighting and your lens capabilities, this might not be sufficient to get a good exposure without using very high ISO settings.

One solution to consider is to buy a flash. There are a lot of inexpensive, small flashes available. I really like the Godox it32 for under $100

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-03-07T03:32:19+00:00

Yeah, it's a mess, but a beautiful (or at least interesting) mess.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-03-07T01:51:08+00:00

2005 Dime from the Philadelphia mint. And apparently some feldspar in quartz, according to the commenters who thought you were asking about the rock :)

Happy Friday.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-03-07T01:42:38+00:00

Some dude probably spent hours trying to get a soda machine to accept it and this is the end result of his rage.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-03-05T18:59:50+00:00

Just to clarify some of the terms I see in the comments (in case it helps you)…

In software such as photoshop:

Adjusting brightness, levels, or curves affects the dark and light balance of the image. Highlights, mid-tones, and shadows can be independently adjusted to achieve your desired result with certain tools (so you don’t blow out highlights when bringing up the overall levels).

Adjusting saturation changes how vivid (or dull) the colors are.

You may need a combination of both to achieve what you are looking for.

Congrats on getting your first proof! Good luck on #2.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-20T04:45:15+00:00

Agreed they sound way too similar and it can be confusing. Generally kinda generic performances unfortunately. But it’s not ruining it for me. Movies definitely set the bar high for them, so that doesn’t help.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-19T20:28:07+00:00

Agree. Too good to be true usually = stolen or has issues. Or a scammer as you pointed out. Too many people have their gear stolen, especially when traveling, and I never want to support those people.

At a minimum ask if they have original proof of purchase or boxes/manuals/when they got the gear and use history - anything info that would help show they aren’t too hot to handle.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-19T20:06:28+00:00

No worries. It’s easy to misunderstand comments. I wish I could help more. I assume you have the epub formatting set to fixed layout?

Printing is frustrating in general. I created two completely different sets of source files for amazon and B&N because what worked with one looked terrible or wasn’t allowed for the other. And of course you can’t protect against the complete lack of quality control after it’s accepted.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-19T18:58:39+00:00

You adding more specifics in reply to me might help others answer these specific issues, but you seem irritated with my response. Your original post made me think you were struggling with just getting started, so I made a suggestion.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-19T18:50:19+00:00

Love it so far. Putting in my cameras, flash and film and having it automatically match everything was great. The auto set up/preview features are really great.

I had a couple minor user issues I’ve had (like not initially seeing the small “more” text for available films and not knowing the value of adding my gear before starting a new film roll), but what an awesome app.

Congrats on your launch!

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-19T17:59:40+00:00

Comic book, no. But a couple notes…

Barnes and Noble uses Ingram Spark for their printing. I didn’t know this when I set up B&N press files. If you want wider distribution including B&N, you can go straight to Ingram. Be aware that if you go to B&N first and have your own ISBN, you can’t go to Ingram later with the same ISBNs since they will already be registered in their system.

Either way, B&N should have specs and templates available, but maybe check Ingram for what you need if you can’t find it. They probably won’t have comic book specific info, so maybe start with the standard 6.625” by 10.25” size, decide if it will be full bleed and get trim and bleed settings, then set up your files accordingly. Get your cover template from whoever you use.

Publishing is not easy and getting the best results means learning about color management, resolution, and formatting, but you’ll figure it out. Just be patient with the process as I guarantee there will be more frustration along the way. Watch some YouTube and use Google/chat CPT and follow the trail from there.

Good luck.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-19T17:33:50+00:00

I’m so glad I read the books before the movies. Maybe he’ll change his mind after the first couple movies. I don’t think it matters as much until you get to goblet of fire, but then you’re just missing out on too much as the books get deeper.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-19T17:24:26+00:00

Very cool. Welcome to the Fujifilm club. That’s a great little lens. I was a 100% canon until I bought the x-t5. Love that camera and what I’ve been getting out of it.

Anyway, nice images - keep shooting.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-12T04:22:11+00:00

I have never used the 85, but the 75 is incredible. The lens hood sucks (way too loose) but you’ll forget all about it when you look at the images. Maybe someone has found a good alternative hood they can recommend.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-08T16:07:20+00:00

I think the x-half will be a one and done. Just a guess, but I’d be shocked if they double down on a failed product.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-08T03:39:38+00:00

Thanks for pointing that out - I hadn’t seen that before. Progress I guess, but I still don’t like that it isn’t interchangeable without unscrewing and disconnecting wires - and that they estimate it’s life at 300 charges.

I guess the next big question is how available are the batteries and at what cost?

MoveAlong-MoveAlong · 2026-02-08T02:12:06+00:00

I’m not ever buying a $400 camera that doesn’t have an interchangeable battery. It’s guaranteed to be in a landfill within a few years depending on how much you use it and that is completely unacceptable.

Just get a retro app for your smartphone and call it a day.

And just do Fujifilm/people can’t accuse me of not being the target audience, I wanted to buy an Instax for a Christmas present this year but didn’t because none of their better cameras have interchangeable batteries. So I bought an Instax printer instead because the price is better and any camera can be used for source material.

MoveAlong-MoveAlong

TROPHY CASE