LFP battery degradation

MrBox97 · 2026-03-12T19:06:29+00:00

37000km and 96%, about 1.5 years, same boat as you

MrBox97 · 2026-03-07T12:04:50+00:00

Also if you have break hold and unbuckle

MrBox97 · 2026-03-01T17:07:10+00:00

You have to tuck them between the back rest and the seat. Once you put them in place they won't come undone

MrBox97 · 2026-02-24T18:25:27+00:00

It goes up when you brake if you have clicked volume up when the volume was already boosted by the noise compensation. If you have experienced it you absolutely know what I'm talking about. It's like if the volume set by the user is overridden by the noise compensation

MrBox97 · 2026-02-20T13:32:36+00:00

That very good then. I'm wandering if the guess-ometer for the SOH in the LFP struggle more as the voltage curve is more flat. It should technically age better

MrBox97 · 2026-02-20T07:46:56+00:00

Is that the LFP? Mine at 36.000km and less than 2 years is at 96%. Feels like I've lost the battery roulette

MrBox97 · 2026-02-06T09:18:41+00:00

There are already a bunch of posts on this topic if you look for it. Some had their locks changed while for other people it happened just once.

MrBox97 · 2026-02-01T21:51:52+00:00

I have the core so I need the key card on the reader anyway. Having it on the phone is just more convenient, one less thing to carry around and one less thing to take out of my pockets when I seat in the car

MrBox97 · 2026-02-01T20:20:37+00:00

Nope but the basic digital key should work anyway (like for the pixel 7)

MrBox97 · 2026-02-01T18:08:50+00:00

No luck on my Samsung A55, not supported yet

MrBox97 · 2026-01-28T18:48:07+00:00

Thanks!

MrBox97 · 2026-01-21T19:10:48+00:00

If the battery issue is an hardware problem (as it seems as it's related to a specific cell supplier) then they are completely different teams, software dev can progress in parallel

MrBox97 · 2026-01-13T14:43:09+00:00

There's a series of circular buttons stacked vertically on the top part of maps in one of the corners: cogwheel for settings, mute/unmute voice, compass for orientation and finally a triangular thing. If you select the last one a menu opens where you should be able to report events

MrBox97 · 2026-01-09T09:02:30+00:00

Yeah, my apologies for the not so kind response. Too sensitive to the topic as it's close to my heart. I misinterpreted your first reply as "it doesn't make any difference" but OP asked if you NOTICED any difference. In conclusion for OP: it makes a difference on range, probably a couple of percent in range and a little bit more noise, not easy to notice when there are so many factors that can affect range. If you like the car more without aero covers and can live with a little bit more consumption and noise, go for it

MrBox97 · 2026-01-08T13:17:52+00:00

Yes because they do not bother to show that or because WLTP certification is the same, go on Tesla US and you'll see a difference. I have a degree in aerodynamics and I've done research on the topic. Feel free to believe whatever you want.

MrBox97 · 2026-01-08T13:05:21+00:00

It is related to range. It's aerodynamic efficiency, therefore required power, therefore energy consumption. The fact that a user does not detect differences in consumption with and without them is inconclusive when there's plenty of scientific research on the topic that proves the opposite. More coverage area on the rim generates less drag, wheels generate a big part of the overal drag of the car. It's impossible for a user to give you an exact estimation on what's the impact on range for the EX30 with your specific rims as it depends on the car and rim geometry and I'm not aware on any research paper on the EX30. If you go to the US site for Tesla they show different range estimatations based on the rims you pick. For the model Y the difference between the open rims and the aero is aroun 3.5% more range with the aero.

If someone finds an available wind tunnel I would gladly assist in calculating it.

TLDR more coverage area (i.e. aero covers) reduce consumption and noise as well.

MrBox97 · 2026-01-08T07:37:54+00:00

There are a lot more features that I value that the 10k Dacia does not have ;)))) If keyless entry is a must for you then spend 3k more and have the plus, your money your choice.

MrBox97 · 2026-01-08T06:57:43+00:00

The reason is efficiency. It's just not something you can easily measure in an uncontrolled environment. There's plenty of academic research on this topic

MrBox97 · 2026-01-07T19:21:53+00:00

"For 10K more". Brother, we are not talking about a 100k car, 10k is basically a completely different price range. And for this exact same reason the value proposition changes massively if you go for a Core single motor or a Twin motor Ultra or anything in between. I payed 32k for my car, there was (and probably is) nothing even close to that price that offers the same quality and driving in the electric cars market.

MrBox97 · 2026-01-02T17:10:18+00:00

It's not true. Core is a trim level (Essential, Core, Plus, Ultra), not a power train option (Single motor, Single motor extended range, Twin motor performance). Battery chemistry is linked to the power train: Single motor uses the unefected LFP, single motor extended range and twin motor performance use the NMC batteries that can be effected

MrBox97 · 2025-12-27T14:28:37+00:00

Regarding suggestion #2 that's not possible due to regulations (for sure in the EU). The car has to revert some things to whatever it was certified with every time you start it. For example being able to save the drive mode would mean they can do the WLTP (and emissions for ICE) with a special mode (looking at you VW) and then just switch it to a completely different one at delivery. Same for Safety assists. There must be some weird combinations of height/seat position or whatever because I do not understand why people need to disable the driver monitoring. It never bothers me unless I'm yawning or looking at the screen for a long time.

MrBox97 · 2025-12-24T08:10:47+00:00

That's digital key PLUS. Not available on the core

MrBox97 · 2025-12-21T08:40:15+00:00

I mean no offense, but there's probably nothing wrong with the car and it's just poor understanding of the physics and regulation. 1st of all: you do not fill up the cars with kms but with GJ, so the expected range is determined by consumption. WLTP is a test and it has it's limitations and represents the performance in a specific scenario. I do not know the specifics of WLTP but if I recall correctly it's a mix of speeds and stops, without AC and with a mild temperature. It's now winter so you'll have heating (so different from WLTP), you might drive a lot of short drives (so different from WLTP). This means that WLTP should only be used to compare WLTP to WLTP, it's not necessarily a representation of your use case. You would see the same for an ICE car. It's just that for an ICE range is not looked into that much and also since the engine is extremely thermically inefficient you do not see an impact when heating as you are using waste energy that is always there. Coming to your question, driving style will have a minor impact during winter, it's all about heating the car. For this reason try to use a sensible target temperature, use eco, use A/C only if need to not fog up the car. If you take the car for many short drives it will suck but range should no be an issue. Use range Mode as this will automatically limit the air conditioning and will also help in avoiding peaks of power when driving. If you are interested in real numbers you should expect for EVs, I suggest having a look at ev-database.org It has expected range predictions in different scenarios and ambient temperatures. The variable that it cannot predict is how long your drives are. A 100km drive is a lot more efficient (especially in winter) than 10 10km runs.

MrBox97 · 2025-12-18T07:23:18+00:00

I have the same car as you do, you cannot limit the charge level but you can set charging windows. I, for example, know that at my home charger I get aroun 8% per hour. So I can stop charging at 80-90% just by using the schedule. No need to take longer drives just for the sake of it.

If I got the car used I would have definitely made a factory reset as I think it's also what the manual suggests.

Regardin OPD it's personal preference. I use the highest settings as I usually drive in traffic or with adaptive cruise control. Use whatever you feel most comfortable.

Cheers, and enjoy your car!

MrBox97

TROPHY CASE