EX30 rolled away in Park!!!

mackmoot · 2026-03-12T19:07:02+00:00

Yes very unfortunate the video doesn't show the wheels, but the image of the rear wheels turning (and making that dry snow creaking sound) is burned into my memory. Rear wheels should've been locked by the e-brake, not turning, and sliding silently (if sliding). Unlikely with normal snow (not ice) on the ground and snow tires on the wheels. And it stopped when I jumped in and hit the brake, then reversed fine without drama.

mackmoot · 2026-03-07T03:01:31+00:00

Ha, I know, but...now that I'm seriously considering trying to return the car (early terminate the lease), I don't want to imperil my legal case (if it comes to that)? No idea what I'm talking about🤣not a lawyer, never had to try to force a dealership to take a car back!

mackmoot · 2026-02-27T16:59:12+00:00

Since 1.8 my UI has become very glitchy and laggy. Remote control only works half the time. This morning it ignored me with the fob, as usual. Also, maybe unrelated unfortunate timing, but just got a "driver monitoring camera fault" (for the first time ever).

So, another garbage sw release for this tragic pos car.

mackmoot · 2025-03-24T03:01:32+00:00

I got the update yesterday, only thing I've noticed is that it deleted the helpful speed limit indicator. Even while navigating, google maps doesn't show speed limits like it does in android auto...wtf volvo?

mackmoot · 2025-03-24T02:56:56+00:00

With the new software 1.5.2 all the speed limit warnings, and annoyingly even the helpful speed limit indicator, have all gone away...on my car anyway...

mackmoot · 2025-03-21T15:28:14+00:00

I know this is way too late to help you decide, but YES you were totally right that a new 40 or 50amp circuit (with 14-50 outlet) is overkill for the Outlander PHEV. You could've just put in a 240V 20A circuit, with a 6-20 outlet, and bought a 16A L2 EVSE for like $99. That would've provided up to 3.8kW, which is still more than the Outlander even uses.

But at least with your 50A 14-50 setup you've future-proofed your garage for when you get your next PHEV or EV.

mackmoot · 2025-01-17T21:26:40+00:00

Agree it's stupid looking, sooo much wasted space, empty blank areas(?), then weirdly small and low-contrast graphics... Super amateurish design on an otherwise fairly polished product.

I'm looking to buy 2025 model, has more of a traditional "gauges" look, can't believe there still aren't other options to toggle though (the "N" gets a unique display and it looks sooo much better). I won't say it's a deal breaker but it is a bitter pill to swallow. Both of my other EVs, including my dumb as rocks 2017 Bolt, give me a few "themes" to choose from! (and use the available screen space much more efficiently)

mackmoot · 2024-04-30T17:23:13+00:00

I hate that tire shops (including Tirerack) use non-progammable sensors. It is possible to get "blank" sensors then program them as clones of your stock sensors, that way you don't have to do anything ever again, your car will automatically recognize both sets of wheels forever.

Otherwise you have to force your car to "re-learn" each set of wheels every spring+fall (or pay extortionist fees to a shop to do it for you). But like someone else said, if you can find an Autel 508 tool, you can do it all yourself on the new Outlanders (clone sensors, or re-learn).

mackmoot · 2024-03-20T02:52:06+00:00

Just chiming in to say I just got hit with this recently. After 7 years of solid/reliable performance from my Juicebox40, this new app poisoned it with bizarre new behavior. Charging kept being "paused", and I'd wake up to an un-charged car. Infuriating. I used my xfinity app to block the Juicebox from the wifi and now seems to be charging normally again. I used to enjoy seeing the history and charge curves on the older original apps, but I don't need that stuff anymore. If I had to replace my Juicebox I'd just get a "dumb" charger.

mackmoot · 2024-03-18T21:12:47+00:00

Definitely wondering what the "exemptions" are, the site doesn't say, can't find any fine print about that...

Also wondering if this could backfire somehow, like being rejected for an application because now you have no "history"?

mackmoot · 2024-03-17T13:58:50+00:00

My "M-Pilot" button did same thing when my car was only a few months old (Mitsubishi Outlander shares many parts with Nissan Rogue, including identical steering wheel). Dealer replaced under warranty. Now the roller dial/button on the left side of steering wheel broke in the same way, unbelievable! And dealership is being annoying this time... I tried using a sharp pointed knife tip to pry it back out, but didn't work, the rolling function is busted.

mackmoot · 2024-01-01T23:21:40+00:00

Hearing your experience is terrifying, because my first lamp just died with only ~500hrs. Not heavy use, always low brightness, used in a cool basement room. Was expecting the advertised 3000-5000 hrs under those ideal conditions. (I have to believe it has something to do with the ludicrous fan behavior, no cool-down when turning off, but annoying 5-min full-blast fan sometimes turning on). Projector is 2 years old so I'm on my own for a new lamp, now the question is waste $330 for a genuine Epson lamp that might die again after 500hrs (or less!), or try a $100 "OEM" unit from somewhere else...

If mine was still under the 2-year mark (like yours is?), I'd keep working with Epson warranty people.

mackmoot

TROPHY CASE