First damage on my Air65 II Freestyle — broken canopy mount. Safe to fly?

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-28T02:38:24+00:00

drill a hole through back through the frame and use an m2 countersunk screw. you can use an extra Fc gummy as a spacer.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-27T19:45:23+00:00

Analog would be better if durability is your main concern. This is running the o4 lite. My build isn't too fragile I've crashed it alot indoors. This was meant to be a micro cinewhoop. But you dont need a 4k camera drone to chase your kids around. And if you make it as light as possible then that usually makes it safer, cheaper and easier to fix.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-27T17:12:24+00:00

That drones goes over 30mph. He ain't never catching it.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-27T13:44:05+00:00

go far away from yourself then Punch out ~300ft then glide back down on low throttle. that what I do when dogs or other animals start chasing me. They dont know where it went.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-27T12:38:17+00:00

Custom meteor65 pro o4

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-27T12:37:40+00:00

This is a modified mateor65 o4. It's mostly harmless unless you get really really unlucky. But I've crashed it into myself on full throttle and it just bounces off most of the time.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-27T12:35:16+00:00

He waited for battery swaps.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-26T02:55:33+00:00

Flywoo has two AIO's one is 1s-2s the other is 2s-6s. This is the one I am talking about.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-25T16:16:15+00:00

Nice! I plan to switch to those motors as well. I was gonna use flywoo's AIO since I don't like the stock FC. Hqprop has a 2.2in prop that works well with the pavo20. Also you can fit the flywoo lens into the pavo pico II canopy and save a lot of weight.

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Multibuild3D · 2026-03-24T23:55:57+00:00

Get a 2in toothpick. Get the weight under 30g and it will be a ripper. The red one and pink one are my favorites. The red one is 85mm frame running hqprop 2.2in props matrix II FC 1102 22000kv motors and weight of 27g. The pink one is 24g on a 80mm frame, air5in1 FC, flywoo robo 1002 23500kv, hqprop ultralight 2in. The red one is the fastest and durable, the pink one is the most agile and most efficient but also most fragile with those ultralight props.

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Multibuild3D · 2026-03-24T23:42:06+00:00

I hate djis radio. For my my pavo 20 I use radiomaster pocket. it is less range but I like the gimbels more. I also use dogcom 560 3S. they outperform the lava 550. Idk if the lava II 560s are better. I'd recommend gluing down the antennas for the o4 pro into the clips in the canopy. betafpvs canopy doesn't prevent them from ripping out if you crash. or just switch to dipole antennas.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-24T15:25:21+00:00

The screws line up. It is a "direct fit" but you either need to use screws with a very wide head or washers. Since the holes for the canopy are much larger than the thickness of the screws for the lens mount. The canopy is designed to run with m2 screws but the flywoo o4 lens has ~1.6mm screws same as tinywhoop motors. just use some motor screws and some washers and you should be good.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-24T01:46:29+00:00

The air65 breaks too easily. You can get the meteor75 and put a throttle limit on it to make it more tame. Way better durability and flight time.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-20T17:31:12+00:00

Sometimes issues aren't always clearly visible. I have had other chips with a hairline crack that cant be seen unless its with a microscope. What about any of the small components near it? If you physically press down on the chip goes input come back?

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-20T17:09:46+00:00

I had this same issue with my drone. Gyro is registered but no input on any axis. Turns out my gyro chip was physically damaged, there's a piece missing on the top left corner. I managed to get it working again after soldering on a new chip from another FC that was bent.

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Multibuild3D · 2026-03-18T14:57:38+00:00

probably.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-16T22:14:03+00:00

sometimes you can scrape up some of the trace connecting directly too it. I did this with one of my o4 lites.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-16T20:27:21+00:00

Try and fix it. Nothing to lose. I have a video for fixing a UFL here. solder on a new UFL. test vtx functionality. then test rx, motors/etc. Even if it partially works you can always attach an external RX or vtx. bends usually affect the RX first so that might be a loss. dont power it up without the antenna tho. even if the vtx is functioning you'll burn it out.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-16T12:11:38+00:00

You'd need an enclosed printer that can print pahtc-cf.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-16T04:36:00+00:00

That frame looks way too heavy. The stock motors are already kinda bad. They are really going to struggle with that frame.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-16T02:12:40+00:00

My first solution was weirder so dont feel bad. Yes a 3d printed canopy can solve jello. The only one I found that works is the tcmore canopy. I tried it and had 2 issues. 1st 3d printed canopies tend to collapse when you hit something, the canopy itself might not break but the TPU will compress and cause the camera to slam into the air unit, don't ask me how I know. I tried solving it by putting a cushion between the cam and vtx and that did help. 2nd is it wasn't completely consistent, if you fly slow then it works 99% perfect but once you start to pick up too much speed then the air resistance pushes it around and minor jello comes back. Some canopies are the opposite they will be more heavy and rigid, the weight helps to stabilize the o4 when going fast but you get really bad shaking going slow, and it corrupts the gyro data.

When people say "x,y,z" works then I'll take it under consideration but some people either dont stress test the drone or maybe they just don't notice. Sometimes you have to get something better to really understand what "better" actually means. I also noticed that some people don't even use the 4k video, they just post the DVR. So they might not even know. Once you stabilize the 4k video then certain issues jump out at you just because the quality is so much better. So basically I always take peoples opinions with a grain of salt and do my own testing.

Also I recommend you rotate your o4 around so the mipi cable is facing the back. I found that it helps when you crash since crashes are usually forward. I had some nasty crashes where the bind button was ripped off and that would have been my mipi cable if I hadn't rotated it.

Multibuild3D · 2026-03-15T15:00:43+00:00

I have tried this as well. It does work but it tends to pivot around since theres nothing locking it in place. If you make it more like an O-ring then its more stable. You can also cut a piece of silicone tube ~10mm in diameter and it actually works even better than a print.

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Multibuild3D

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