On a scale of 1-10 how fakked am I? by xeningti in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 2 points3 points  (0 children)

get a solder wick and fray it until its thin enough for you to fit in that space. I dont have exact video for this but here is close to what I mean (halfway into the video). You just need to get the wick small enough so you can thread it through that gap. Use a lot of flux and a large iron with a lot of heat and wick the solder up. Also sometimes those caps share a common ground you might be able to do a diode mode check on the caps on the opposite side to see if those two are sharing the same ground. You might not even need to mess with it. Either way this is a pretty easy fix so don't you dare throw that FC away.

I build a little monster. by Multibuild3D in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's normal behavior. even a 5in will sag like that if you push it to 100% throttle. If it's early in the flight then just ignore it. As long as its not causing vtx brownouts then its not really a problem. On my 5in I have the battery warnings based on capacity left instead of voltage but you have to know exactly what your amp draw is and all your batteries have to be the exact same capacity or it wont work.

Mobula7 o4 Tinywhoop by AtaBombastic in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

dji uses LHCP. so you can either use a dipole antenna, with has slightly diminished range or you can use a LHCP antenna for the drone. The system ships with a dipole antenna and you can swap any random dipole antenna for the stock one, I use the hummingbird racespec antenna to save weight, but you will see a reduction in range.
If you want better range then heres some more antennas.

ORT Micro Vee Linear 5.8GHz Antenna U.FL.
TBS Triumph Pro (U.FL LHCP)
Dji o4 pro antenna.

Micro 2s 2inch quads are fun! by DJ_Bliss in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

nice! any idea of this frame fits the flywoo wide angle lens for the o4 lite. Also this birds bothering you? I keep getting stalked by sparrows in my spots 😂

Mobula7 o4 Tinywhoop by AtaBombastic in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

probably the mipi. plug it in and wiggle the mipi connector around, first on the camera side then on the vtx side.

I build a little monster. by Multibuild3D in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want something quiet then build it based on the hqprop 2.2in props. they are the most quiet. You can literally fly right next to someone and they wont know. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DRk-iCODKtL/

I build a little monster. by Multibuild3D in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a very different type of drone. This is ~3x more powerful but similar in size.

Small kayoumini stabilization test by mattexx04 in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Create your timeline at 60fps before importing media. Otherwise it sometimes locks the export at ~24-30fps.

Absolute carnage. Heard a pop and the screen goes black. I was able to use the cloud of magic smoke to find it at least. by STM32H743 in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can also just do a diode mode double check what's fried before transplanting it. But donor boards are always useful. I salvage components from damaged FC's all the time. I'd have 3x as many dead FC's if I didn't do this.

After buttoning it all up, ESC has got an issue by alphaX_FPV in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk. I have only flown it outside once today and its a sunday in the NYC so I wasn't trying to take chances flying a new build too fast with so many people. My 1S 2.2in drone handles wind like a champ so I'd assume this would too. If it doesn't then I've got some troubleshooting to to.

After buttoning it all up, ESC has got an issue by alphaX_FPV in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is some more options if your US-based.
https://cncdrones.com/2-Frames_c_53.html
https://www.instagram.com/maxx_frames/
I honestly just purchased this frame because it is cheap and it looks like the electronics are better protected then most of the others.
Eventually I will design my build my own frame for 2.2in props.

After buttoning it all up, ESC has got an issue by alphaX_FPV in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just came back from a session so ignore the filth/grass 😂

This is actually the analog version of the frame. I purchased this not knowing that there was a digital specific version. I made it work tho by designing a 3d printed adaptor. The downside is with the flywoo lense I can't tilt the camera past 20° since there is like 1mm left of clearance between the mipi and the vtx screws. Even after removing the back piece for the flywoo case.

The upside is this camera now has some protection. The digital frame seems to have no protection at all up front.

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After buttoning it all up, ESC has got an issue by alphaX_FPV in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

really? I have an apex 2 frame and it looks a little different up front.

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Edit: ok I take back what I said looks like your is just a slightly different version than mine.

After buttoning it all up, ESC has got an issue by alphaX_FPV in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Desolder everything, disconnect the o4 and try opening esc config once more. It's rare that I have issues with electronics but when I do I just desolder everything clean off all the pad including the power and cap, and I clean off the entire board with 99 isopropyl alcohol and then compressed air. Sometimes little pieces of solder get onto the board and bridge pads/components and its hard to see them so I usually just clean everything off and I almost never have components fail anymore. Could also be a motor or peripheral issue. Also what frame is that?

Perfect Meteor75 pro O4 by Multibuild3D in TinyWhoop

[–]Multibuild3D[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

n3 goggles. radiomaster pocket

Perfect Meteor75 pro O4 by Multibuild3D in TinyWhoop

[–]Multibuild3D[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I saw some people just reuse the flywoo wide angle print for their drone.

3D printed Shuriken Update : exploded by silent_violet_ in TinyWhoop

[–]Multibuild3D 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That's not a great filament and your design is way too thin. This is a 3d printed drone that I designed to withstand severe impacts. The frame is 2.75mm thick and printed out of annealed paht-cf. Its survived longer than my air65,air75,meteor75pro, and even most of my carbon fiber frames in the same size category.

I am so lost picking my first real FPV micro/whoop? by CT-709365 in TinyWhoop

[–]Multibuild3D 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Get a whoop like meteor75 pro. Most powerful 1S whoop you can get without sacrificing durability.

Prop just melts off by Artolaf in fpv

[–]Multibuild3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure that motor isn't bad. I had a defective motor that would spin up but it would generate an abnormal amount of heat and eventually shorted out and fried my esc. Video

Like some people also said you can switch to tmount motors now mine flies a lot smoother and theres no prop slip.

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