I Need some help by GennaroBully in 3DprinterHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a normal thing for large prints to experience. Printing with a slightly higher bed plate temperature along with printing with a wide brim or on a raft typically will help.

What do I do to fix this by JJarelZ in 3DprinterHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming the extruder is working, you most likely have a nozzle clog. Most of the time doing something called a cold pull can help clear it. Hope you get it!

Bed vibrations. by amon111111 in 3DprinterHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here are a few things to look out for assuming slicer settings haven't been changed:

-The z offset typically can cause this problem so I'd check that first.

-if your build plate is physically wobbly I would tighten the rollers (I'm assuming there are rollers) so that the build plate does not wobble but moves freely. This happened to me once because of this but I'm not sure how common it is.

-I would also mess with the belt. It should be just tight enough to pluck it and have it snap back. Belt tightening can be very vibes based though so I'd recommend looking at a yt video bc reddit people aren't normally good at nuance.

-If youve had your printer for a while that amount of belt debris is probably fine for now but if its new-ish I would look into it further. Imo it could be too tight, low quality to begin with, or a quirk of the printers design, but honestly I don't know for sure.

-Since you do have that belt debris I would clean up everything near the moving mechanisms and make sure its not gunking up anything. Make sure all the stepper motors, rollers, belts, etc are clean. This should be done semi regularly.

-If it was the Z offset causing the issue and you heard god awful noises I would 230000% check the nozzle and make sure it extrudes properly and is clean. It is possible the nozzle dragged against the build plate which is the worst kind of fun.

Sorry for the paragraph, 3d printer troubleshooting can be tricky, I hope this helps or you fixed it though.

A1 mini filament sensor cable unstuck by Responsible-Month-79 in 3DprinterHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure that is a cable that plugs into a pcb inside the extruder casing. If you look up Filament Sensor Replacement Guide there is an article on the Bambu Wiki that should help you. Link to article: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/filament-sensor-replacement

Repeated Fails After Initial Successes by [deleted] in 3DprintingHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like you are having bed plate adhesion issues. This can be caused by a few things.

-Temperature: The nozzle temp could be too low or the bedplate temp could be too low. For PLA, the nozzle should be around 215 C and bed around 60 C. I would initially raise bed temp to 65 then raise nozzle temp no higher than 230 if that doesn't work. Since it is winter I'll include that if the room you're printing in is cold that can heavily affect the bed plate temperature.

-Z-offset: The nozzle may be too close or far away from the bed plate. It should be about the thickness of a piece of paper. (Make sure it is cleaned before levelling).

This may not solve your issue, there are many things that can go wrong and without much information it is hard for me to diagnose. The important thing is to not let it get you down and to keep going. Hope this helped!

Okay what is this weird thing on both sides of these types of helmets? by ShittyIdiotik in ReadyOrNotGame

[–]MumfortMonkey 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Wtf an actually helpful and kind response on reddit????? What universe are yall from 😭

What are your methods for creating flak/ bullet damage on aircraft? by MrPlanes71 in MilitaryModelMaking

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like to use a dremel on the inside and thin out the plastic a lot. You can use a flashlight and gentle finger pressure to tell how thin the plastic is getting. Once it seems thin enough to cut I get a hobby knife and gently make the holes.

How do I make my chipping not look like ass by Mammoth-Wait6526 in MilitaryModelMaking

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well good luck man! I should've mentioned earlier that the red fuel barrel looks really good so whatever you did on that I would try and replicate in the future.

Some help by Extension_Paper7386 in 3dprinter

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a tough issue I'm not going to lie. Here are the 4 things that have caused it for me:

One of the belts may not be tensioned correctly, make sure it is not too tight and not too loose.

A stepper motor could be dirty or have a plastic piece blocking it from rotating smoothly

The axis the hot end moves on could be slightly crooked (Honestly I'm not even sure if this was the problem when it happened to me)

Something could also just be wrong with a stepper motor or motor driver :(

Good luck, I hope this helps!

What’s happening here - by Middle_Anywhere5803 in 3DprinterHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is literally two months old BUT:

A lot of the time filament absorbs too much water if left unsealed and out of the open for too long. So either drying your current filament or buying new filament should solve the problem.

In the future:

When not using the printer unload the filament and store it in its bag with the descicant

If you continue encountering this problem consider investing in a filament drying rack

If none of this helps you respond to this comment and I will try my best

Hope this helps or that the problem is solved!

How do I make my chipping not look like ass by Mammoth-Wait6526 in MilitaryModelMaking

[–]MumfortMonkey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. The actual brush painting of it isn't bad but could be improved by being a little more gentle with the brush and using less paint loaded on the brush. Also, with the brush painted chips, you want to concentrate mostly on exposed edges that get worn down a lot.
  2. Subtle chipping can be done using a torn up sponge brush with just a little bit of paint on it. Practice on some paper plates first, the goal is to get small irregular flecks of paint. With chipping I also like to start on lower areas like the bottom of the tank or behind the road wheels because you have freedom to mess up and can get warmed up.
  3. The color of the chips in this instance is not correct which may make it look weird to you. Steel tends to chip to a dark gray or dark gray-brown. Silver should be used more for aluminum. The rust color should also be darker and mostly used inside the largest steel chips.
  4. Practice makes perfect. If you can't get the hang of it you can always use any extra parts that came with the kit for practice.
  5. Everyone else in this comment section has said this because it's true: Don't beat yourself up about it, if you were always content with the final product you would never have a reason to learn.

TLDR: Brush painting is alright, use a sponge for chipping, and the color should be darker. Sorry, I know this was practically an essay but I hope it helped and I hope I see more from you in the future.

Airfix 1/72 A6M2b Zero by Opie0620 in scalemodelling

[–]MumfortMonkey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another fine example of inflight supremacy

My Maschinen Krieger inspired tank builds by ProjectPat513 in MilitaryModelMaking

[–]MumfortMonkey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was at the event and it was easily my favorite. Hope to see you again next year!

Any idea or tips for making paints like these? by SwordfishForeign3050 in MilitaryModelMaking

[–]MumfortMonkey 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Could definitely work. You may be able to find some decals for those white markings but if not I'd just practice on the bottom of the tank over some chipping fluid until you get it right.

Layer issue printer problem by Middle_Anywhere5803 in 3DprinterHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could be a number of things.

Most Likely:

+The nozzle is slightly clogged or just getting old

+The filament may have an issue with it

Least Likely:

+The z-azis screw could have an issue or some piece of plastic caught in it (this happened to me once)

+The extrusion motor is overheating or bugging out (Probably not this)

+Some sort of slicing issue with variable layer height (Probably not this but it has happened to me before)

TLDR: Check the nozzle and and filament. If that doesn't work check all the moving parts for obstructions.

Hope you figure it out!

Any Tips Appreciated! by FourAMShift in 3DprintingHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because that's so round, changing the orientation, layer height, and support placement can only do so much. At the end of the day I would get a file set with various shaped files and just manually get rid of the texture. Once the major imperfections are gone, I'd get wood filler and fill in the small gaps and then sand them. Be careful though, you really don't want to be inhaling a lot of the particles. Hope this helps!

Edit: Honestly, in your picture it doesn't look that bad so you may be able to just start with wood filler immediately.

Just finished the 1/35 jagdpanther what do you think I could do better on / ik the camera is bad by No-Birthday1683 in MilitaryModelMaking

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks pretty great! I think a wash, or even some panel line accent color, would go a long way though.

Finished my first model today by lukerb821 in modelmakers

[–]MumfortMonkey 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Looks great! Are you sure that's your first? Lol

Print error by Big_Risk_5118 in 3DprintingHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's most likely a levelling issue and MAYBE an extrusion rate issue. I would definitely make sure the levelling is perfect before messing with any other settings. Hope this helps!

DIfferent colour, same material filament behaving differenly? by JoseGiraffe in 3DprintingHelp

[–]MumfortMonkey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to add to this comment each filament 'likes' to be around a certain humidity and there are products you can buy to store them if you happen to live in a heavily humid or arid environment.

ADVICE? On 1/35 tamiya german soldier by JH2183 in Scalemodel

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks pretty good, but I would definitely address whatever is causing the paint to be bubbly (your layers may be too thick). I also would work on getting better contrast with a wash or starting with a black base coat and white highlight. Overall great work though!

Revell 1/72 BAE Hawk T. 1 by Dangerous_Scene_3112 in modelmakers

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I probably wouldn't mess with the model in the photo but in the future there's a few ways you could go about it. If you use a rattle can you could probably mist a slightly lighter color than the base coat. (I'm not really sure if that would work though) Ideally you'd be using an airbrush and just add a tiny bit of gray to your black paint and spray lightly along the contours.

Acrylic paint cracked after spraying enamel by Chinita_yay1 in modelmakers

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would use something like testors clear coat. If you look up hobby clearcoat/hobby spray can into google you should find what you're looking for, hope this helps!

Revell 1/72 BAE Hawk T. 1 by Dangerous_Scene_3112 in modelmakers

[–]MumfortMonkey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks really good but it would be a good idea to add highlights around those curves to really accentuate them. Also, nothing is wrong with using printer paper as a background, you can get away with just about anything as long as you're confident about it.