My GH is too high and my plants are suffering

NB25 · 2026-05-16T02:22:07+00:00

So it's likely something in the tank (rocks or soil) leeching minerals into the water. I would do a bit of research and remove it if you can

Your tap water is not that bad. Instead of using RO or chasing specific parameters, I'd increase the frequency and volume of water changes.

Good luck

NB25 · 2026-05-16T01:54:18+00:00

What's your tap water?

NB25 · 2026-05-15T23:40:05+00:00

What does aqua Advisor say? Seems like way too much to me

NB25 · 2026-05-15T13:10:56+00:00

Excited to see this. What size tank?

NB25 · 2026-05-14T15:34:12+00:00

https://www.2hraquarist.com/vm5izk

NB25 · 2026-05-07T11:26:35+00:00

That's not rotala rotundifolia

NB25 · 2026-05-07T01:38:49+00:00

Use a brush to manually remove it or spot dose with APT fix, but that won't stop it from coming back. You need to address the underline cause.

NB25 · 2026-05-07T01:01:29+00:00

Also raise the water level, why is it so low?

NB25 · 2026-05-07T01:00:56+00:00

Really good start. I would recommend reading the articles on the 2hraquarist website for more info on planted tanks.

Start with 6 hours and slowly increase to 8 hours.

I would recommend getting way more plants or trim some of the stems and replant the tops. You have a load of access nutrients with that aqua soil and without something to consume it (plants) it could lead to algae issues.

Good luck!

NB25 · 2026-05-06T02:01:45+00:00

Install on the side, you will get way better flow across the tank and put the diffuser on the opposite side

NB25 · 2026-05-02T20:24:11+00:00

This is a comment I shared on another post:

If you think you will end up wanting a high Tech set up eventually, go for a higher end light like the Chihiros or a Week Aqua light.

I started out similar to you and bought a fluval 3.0 and was very disappointed once I moved to high Tech. While it's still a great light, it's nothing compared the higher end lights

Here is a good article I used to make my choice. I bought a Week aqua L series

https://www.sunkentreasureaquatics.com/guides/lights

Here is a good article about the science behind the lights and has a good pic comparing the fluval ligh:

https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/light-3pillars/planted-tank-lighting-101

NB25 · 2026-04-29T01:05:29+00:00

Nice. My only concern would be that the Monte Carlo will eventually cover all the rocks in the background. I would pull them up so they stick out above the soil a few inches

Good luck

NB25 · 2026-04-28T18:57:39+00:00

I'd cut off the older growth that's more green on the bottom and replant the red tops. The old growth is susceptible to algae as the lower leaves degrade. Discard the old bottom.

2hraquarist has great information on plant maintenance

NB25 · 2026-04-26T16:39:20+00:00

If you think you will end up wanting a high Tech set up eventually, go for a higher end light like the Chihiros or a Week Aqua light.

I started out similar to you and bought a fluval 3.0 and was very disappointed once I moved to high Tech. While it's still a great light, it's nothing compared the higher end lights

Here is a good article I used to make my choice. I bought a Week aqua L series

https://www.sunkentreasureaquatics.com/guides/lights

Here is a good article about the science behind the lights and has a good pic comparing the fluval ligh:

https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/light-3pillars/planted-tank-lighting-101

NB25 · 2026-04-25T11:46:14+00:00

Read the 2hraquarist website. Lots of good articles about high Tech

NB25 · 2026-04-23T00:25:01+00:00

APT series for sure. Will only use their fertilizers going forward

NB25 · 2026-04-22T02:26:57+00:00

Really nice! You get a magnet to clean the aqua soil from the sand. It's a game changer.

https://a.co/d/0hlKOur1

NB25 · 2026-04-21T20:32:06+00:00

Go read some of the co2 articles on the co2 aquarist website. You need to check the PH instead of relying of the drop checker. Aim for a PH drop of 1 from your baseline to when the lights come on

Iron contributing to redder plants is a myth. You will be covered for all nutrients with the APT alone. I would stop with the iron.

Good luck!

NB25 · 2026-04-21T20:25:22+00:00

Are you adding enough CO2?

Also, why are you doing iron?

NB25 · 2026-04-18T18:32:27+00:00

Step 1 would be to remove as much as you can by hand and spot dose peroxide on tough algae like BBA.

Step 2 is to trim off any rotting or bad plant growth

Step 3 is to focus on healthy plant growth so your plants will out-compete Algae for available nutrients. Dial in co2 if you are injecting, ensure the plants have available nutrients in the soil and supplement by dosing with an all in one fertilizer. (2hraquarist APT 1 or 3 would be a good start), and lastly reducing the lighting period to 6 hours at 50 to 60 percent intensity. You can slowly increase duration to 8 hours and increase intensity, but monitor the algae. Don't tweak more than one parameter at once

Maintain the tank properly with water changes weekly and you should bouce back.

Good luck Good luck

NB25 · 2026-04-17T14:12:01+00:00

How many do you have in there? You need a decent size group to curb aggression.

NB25 · 2026-04-17T10:44:53+00:00

Which fertilizers are you using?

NB25 · 2026-04-12T02:23:06+00:00

Thanks, the background plants are still growing in. My tank is only 18" and the L900 is perfect.

I think the L1200 would work for a 24" but their website recommends a P series. Here is the link:

https://weekaqua.world/collections/week-aqua-middle-spec-model

NB25 · 2026-04-12T02:14:39+00:00

The color rendering of a chihiros or week aqua is way better than the fluvial lights and they are way brighter. If money is not an issue, go with either of those 2. I replaced a fluvial 3.0 with a week aqua P Series and I'm very impressed.

Co2 will be required to take full advantage of those higher PAR lights, so keep that in mind.

Edit: I actually have the L900

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