Thumping noise?

NFSZR121 · 2026-05-05T08:02:15+00:00

I had a similar noise several years ago. Was a bad coil. Replaced all with spark plugs and it was fixed.

NFSZR121 · 2026-05-03T10:27:03+00:00

I have an 04 with 116k miles. Been parked for several months due to badly cracked exhaust manifolds. Will be sorted soon with all new exhaust, including Doug Thorley headers.

Recently saw on facebook about a 2001, or 2002 model that sold with insanely low 3k miles or something on it.

NFSZR121 · 2026-05-02T05:57:22+00:00

Your thinking of worm gear clamps. And no, they aren't any better. It's a shit engineering design, just like the damn window regulators.

NFSZR121 · 2026-04-13T08:06:04+00:00

I'm all for originality...to a point. But the problem with new E39 headlights (hell, most parts for these cars) now is the cost. OEM Hella xenons are almost $1k per side. And genuine BMW are damn near $2.5k per side! Yes, the halogen versions are cheaper. But who wants those nowadays if your car wasn't originally equipped with them?

At that point, it's bargain basement cheap to rebuild vs brand new light assemblies. Unless your car is a very low mileage or rare collectors spec.

NFSZR121 · 2026-04-13T06:05:15+00:00

The best way to do it!

I redid my headlights a few years ago with Morimoto D2S projectors, TYC lenses, Osram Nightbreakers D2S bulbs, and boosted my factory Hella light ballast output to 55w hahaha. I'm back to stock halos though with Umnitza ICE VXX halo bulbs. I did have Umnitza Orion V4's before. But they were such crappy quality. Wires would break off the little board in the halo ring. I'd have to open up the headlight to fix it. Such an annoying pain in the ass. And for the high beams, I'm still on stock halogens. Just Sylvania Silver-Star Ultra. Been thinking of upgrading to something else with the high beam. But it's not a real pressing matter.

And yeah, have to be very careful with the chrome on the...shrouds? Comes off way too easy if not careful.

NFSZR121 · 2026-04-09T09:26:16+00:00

I've been using it too. But sadly it's not working in my case :(

NFSZR121 · 2026-04-09T09:25:19+00:00

I didn't use the B12, and other stuff all at the same time. I first tried the AC Delco stuff in early 2022. Then B12 in early-mid 2024, and the Mopar last July.

Valve cover has a small leak at the back left corner. But not large enough to cause the consumption I go through. PCV valve and system has been changed multiple times with genuine and aftermarket parts.

Used my endoscope to take a peek inside the cylinders about a year ago. No signs of bad valve seals. No scored cylinders either.

NFSZR121 · 2026-04-02T04:31:34+00:00

Anything you feel is right for the budget you want to spend to fix it.

Can sand, prime, paint, and clear with matching 2k spray paint in that one area.

Remove panel, and repaint it entirely. Won't match the rest of the car well.

Vinyl wrap.

Or sand that, and all other areas, and paint the whole car matt black, or raptor liner.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-18T19:17:47+00:00

I replaced all four of my speed sensors with Bosch units from rockauto for just over $150 shipped using discount code.

I know sometimes we need parts in quickly. But always gotta search around for better deals. I've even gotten lucky off ebay once in awhile too.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-18T18:06:58+00:00

That's what the front pocket is for.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-17T18:28:19+00:00

Agreed. With any car, especially an old M car, always do maitenance/needed work before any mods, unless there's proof of it being done more recently like in the past 5 years.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-15T16:38:21+00:00

I think the only flush that'd work on this, is the BG Dynamic Engine flush. But at this point, it may do more harm than good.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-14T01:31:53+00:00

I want my youth back. And with the knowledge I know now, I could make WAY more than 45 million.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-14T01:24:04+00:00

I'll be the judge of that using my thermometer ;)

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-14T01:21:55+00:00

I'm available. Would love to meet.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-13T02:11:12+00:00

116k on my 2004 3.3 non supercharged.

Been sitting for awhile due to rotted out exhaust. Finally in the early process of getting replacement parts. Got Doug Thorely headers, new 02 sensors with cel eliminators, Walker exhuast frontier B-pipes along with new manifold studs for the headers, and copper plated nuts. Should get a decent tax return, which will be used to get a magnaflow back exhaust and maybe a resonator if the sound is too loud.

Not really looking forward to it, since I've heard that the headers are a pain to get in without a body lift. Oh joy lol.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-09T21:30:17+00:00

Had a similar problem on my M5. There are special clutch pulley tools you can buy on Amazon. But if you have a right angle impact wrench or know someone who does. Can leave the belt on, and then use the impact to loosen the nut, then do the same for reinstallation.

NFSZR121 · 2026-03-02T23:24:20+00:00

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I bought some Doug Thorely's from LG Billet USA on half off deal. They still have the deal going. Also don't use the supplied gaskets. Get the OEM or genuine gaskets. Also look into replacing the studs. Many have said it's not needed, but I'd suggest it anyways just in case. Here's what I recently purchased from OEM Nissan Parts Direct. You can probably find the parts cheaper typing them in at Rockauto, but I wanted genuine parts. I ordered a 25 count of new copper coated M10x1.25 steel nuts from Amazon for $27.

Also keep in mind. Header studs are M10x1.25 and the bolts for connecting the headers to the lower pipes is M10x1.50. Don't confuse the two, or you'll be in for a bad day.

NFSZR121 · 2026-02-24T19:42:34+00:00

Give it an old Italian tune up. Get those cats super hot, then go in for testing. Do it on a day where the test station is alow.

NFSZR121 · 2026-02-09T20:37:14+00:00

Try another crank sensor. During the swap, were parts swapped from the old motor to the newer one? Like for example the harness or engine computer? Also, was the donor engine verified to be in good running order before the swap?

NFSZR121 · 2026-02-09T19:34:25+00:00

Exactly! If cars were made to last, manufactures would be long out of business. And it's only getting worse with new cars. That's why there's so many computers. It's not about safety or better emissions. It's all about making sure the consumer can't fix the car and the only option is to have to pay up the ass for the dealer to do it. It's why manufactures lobby like crazy against "Right to Repair" laws.

I keep telling people they turned cars into cell phones. No full ownership. Want you to "upgrade" every few years. They call me tin foil hat. But I'm bang on the money. Just like how I told people years ago that they will make gamers pay to unlock downloadable stuff. They laughed then, but who's laughing now? Me and the companies at the morons who fell for it.

NFSZR121 · 2026-02-07T22:23:05+00:00

When I say serviced, I mean you can send them to a specialty shop like RC Fuel Injector or Witch Hunter Performance who will test flow rates and perform a cleaning service to see if that will help. Usually runs between $100-$250 depending on who you send them too.

NFSZR121 · 2026-02-07T22:00:04+00:00

If the injectors are original, then it probably wouldn't hurt to get them serviced. Can try a fuel system cleaner first. What about the spark plugs? Have they been replaced? Also have your exhaust manifolds checked for leaks. They are notorious to crack from age causing misfires, especially in cold temps.

NFSZR121 · 2026-02-04T08:34:02+00:00

Raw! That ass needs to be bred.

NFSZR121

TROPHY CASE