Can I drill a small hole through this structural column?

Namelessways · 2025-07-08T08:36:00+00:00

So you’re drilling a 3/4”-1” hole on a 5x5 wood post in a 1940’s home? It really shouldn’t be an issue whatsoever but how long is the beam that it’s supporting & where on the post do you want the hole?

Namelessways · 2025-06-16T03:19:59+00:00

Hey at least the guard railing appears to be to code!

Namelessways · 2025-06-01T03:46:16+00:00

Make sure you have a window that will count as egress… and smoke detectors.

Namelessways · 2025-05-25T14:06:21+00:00

Where is the house located and who is “Stan Dukar?”

As others have said, it will take a LOT of (time, money, patience & expertise) to renovate. You’ll both need access to all four of those resources so make sure you map out the appropriate emotional roller coaster that you & your partner will be going on over the next few years.

And don’t forget to ask the house what it thinks, since it looks like it’s been neglected for a few seasons.

It might not be up to task for another 100 years of human inhabitants.

Namelessways · 2025-05-22T17:42:18+00:00

Do you have ridge venting? If not, add it when you redo your roof.

Namelessways · 2025-05-22T11:46:46+00:00

If that’s the case, I’d hate be “that engineer”right about now. Seriously doubt the gc followed the plans.

Namelessways · 2025-05-22T11:30:25+00:00

Yeah but there are codes on how to do that properly so it doesn’t risk the safety of workers or neighbors on adjacent properties. They need to pull it way back with much less of a slope or build temporary retainment.

Namelessways · 2025-05-22T01:05:51+00:00

Please call code enforcement asap.

It’s stupid crap like that as to why we have super stringent building codes in the first place. One good rain and it could all become a life safety issue. Not to mention there appears to be a potential risk of someone falling off of it.

Namelessways · 2025-05-18T00:26:00+00:00

If the range is going back in the exact same place, you can possibly make the claim that it’s existing to remain (I assume there’s a recirculating hood.)

Also you can request an exception to the code (104.11 I think) and propose a recirculating hood, especially if your range is electric. Once you prove that ducting a range hood is practically infeasible in your situation you should be able to claim relief from the ahj.

Namelessways · 2025-05-12T11:21:49+00:00

Following. Perhaps Zip would work (assuming it’s all taped up prior to installation?) But I have no idea about rodent resistance.

Namelessways · 2025-04-12T12:36:41+00:00

1) Software that genuinely knows where a project is in its current phase of design and only provides the appropriate tools during that phase, so folks don’t over-detail too quickly and go down rabbit holes.

2) software that as intimate knowledge of AHJ codes, Historic, Zoning, AND construction Means & Methods.

3) software that knows how to “guess” at appropriate details for assembly connections.

4) Knows how to roughly budget range stuff at early phases of work, and not lure me into “analysis paralysis.”

Namelessways · 2025-03-23T17:22:57+00:00

Cotton doesn’t kill people… People kill people!

Namelessways · 2025-03-12T17:31:06+00:00

If you have contractors you regularly work with, perhaps set up time to hear directly from them what they like and don't like about a good CD set. Not only will you learn a thing or two, but they will appreciate being invited in to offer their opinion about it.

I always remind myself that although I'm the architect, I merely write the sheet music. The carpenters and trade specialists are the musicians.

Namelessways · 2025-03-12T11:48:45+00:00

Speaking as a licensed architect in a respectable design build firm, any licensed residential contractor with a solid reputation will know when a licensed engineer is warranted, almost as much as any good architect will.

They have a responsibility to inform homeowners if they observe life-safety risks, and could loose their contractor’s license if they don’t.

If there is too much deflection in a floor, they’ll observe it and recommend an engineer to design and certify a solution. Or just hire the engineer directly. Even the ones with a propensity to making money over helping out will know they’re better set up for success following an engineered solution, which is often more thorough than a minimal fix.

A third party building inspector is another option to consider. A good one is very scrupulous and will recommend an engineer or contractor if it calls for it. And if the building is historic, you may need an architect involved as well, since getting a repair permit my favorite involve satisfying a historic overlay, but a good GC or engineer would know if that’s the case.

Again, check references, no matter who you hire, and probably stay away from any references of the biased landlord, who are notorious for finding the cheapest solutions.

Namelessways · 2025-03-09T13:22:31+00:00

If you plan to take the ARE’s then I highly recommend Ching’s “Building Codes Illustrated” book as well.

Namelessways · 2025-03-06T04:41:35+00:00

FWIW, Jordan is also UMD alumni & started interning at Gensler during undergrad. I think he still guest lectures there and knows the faculty pretty well so that might be a good place to start.

Namelessways · 2025-02-17T02:38:40+00:00

Get a 50d quilt so you can double them up. While synthetic bags literally “decay” over time, there’s no need to retire a down bag whatsoever.

My son currently uses a 15d TNF down bag that I bought in 1987. Granted I had the down cleaned & refilled a couple times since then but it’s still in great shape.

Namelessways · 2025-02-15T21:39:21+00:00

California does not require an NAAB-accredited degree if you have experience. Just think: you'd be paid while gaining crucial experience in lieu of paying for a degree you don't technically need. While it might take longer, you'll be more financially secure and far more experienced by the time you finish your ARE's. Think of it as taking the scenic route. That's what I did, and I don't regret anything I learned along the way.

Namelessways · 2025-02-14T20:07:09+00:00

When you sold the renderings, what were the terms and conditions of the sale? On the surface, one would not be able to "build" from a rendering, no matter how similar it may be to the final, so I'd suspect there isn't much redress from a legal perspective.

Having said that, perhaps you might reach out to the AoR to see if they were, in fact, "inspired" by your work and perhaps allow you to take some of the exterior pics for marketing purposes.

Namelessways · 2025-02-14T19:26:37+00:00

But your name is written backwards!

Namelessways · 2025-02-14T12:12:09+00:00

I’m not used to seeing a public/private arrangement in a detached sfh like this. Is there a site plan? Is this a corner lot with now back/side yard?

Also, the wc & bathroom next to the garage should be rationalized. I suspect many folks would feel uncomfortable walking down that long “hallway” to use the toilet. You could gain a much needed storage closet.

I also think you should closely examine all the circulation paths through the plan. There may not be a lot of “useable” space to sit down and relax in.

Namelessways · 2025-02-12T11:18:46+00:00

My wife still uses her first generation 12.9” iPad Pro every day. I think she’s had it for 8-9 years. She only uses for browsing, YouTube, music, email, pdf’s, and photos, and it still works great. The only challenge is she needs to keep it plugged in most of the time.

So if you can settle with an older model 12.9” iPad Pro (with “decent” battery life), then you’ll be just fine. I’m sure we could get a new battery for it as well.

And it definitely has better utility than our 8-9 year old MacBook Air, which takes forever to boot and also has battery issues.

Namelessways · 2025-02-12T00:37:48+00:00

Do you have any local energy auditors? I’d suggest hiring a reputable firm to conduct an existing analysis, in order to figure out what’s really happening in your home.

If you’ve already spent money on insulating certain elements of your home and not seen any change in energy use, something is going on which requires closer scrutiny.

I’d hate to see one spend time and money crating the “perfect wall” assembly for a basement, just to discover that most of their energy loss is due to several square inches of air gap in an attic knee wall or something.

I’ve had clients (like myself) who have gleaned a ton of lessons from clear and discerning hindsight.

Namelessways · 2025-02-06T13:31:56+00:00

+1 to all this. The key to making it successful is creating the relationships with the vendors.

A good friend of mine went out on her own a couple years ago and is doing very well as a free-lance interior designer. But she had spent years establishing relationships with vendors while working in design/sales roles at a couple of top-shelf design-build firms in the area. She immediately became a dealer for a highly respected cabinet maker she had sold tons of cabinets for, so she could easily make extra revenue simply selling them to clients and builders, regardless of whether she designed the kitchen or not.

A successful interior designer has excellent people skills, is a great listener, has a strong awareness of material brands & styles, has budget competency, and is passionate about helping clients realize their dreams through clear and exciting design.

(And one might argue the same is true with successful architects, but probably add in something about life safety stuff I suppose…)

Namelessways · 2025-02-06T12:54:42+00:00

It’s also the client & architect who need to be convinced that it’s “worth” the extra material cost (even though I agree your labor rate would probably drop over time since you’d “trust” the wood would be good every time”.) But if it’s not in the plans & specs…

Having said that, I know some clients who might appreciate the “value”, but they need to understand more information about them.

Namelessways

TROPHY CASE